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Hi,
I get that your parking brake is set from the instrument light being on.
This means you are in neutral during the operation of clutch operation.
At first the clutch pedal is not depressed so it can only spin the input shaft going into the transmission.
I do not hear any noise from that front input bearing.
The pilot bearing in the crankshaft is also turning at engine speed so it cannot make noise.
There is no No pressure on the throwout bearing, with proper clearance, so no noise!
The above happens until you open up the clutch package by using the throw out bearing with the pedal. I do not hear any kind of spin-up to speed noise. It’s good.
The next tiny noise, that may occur, is the pilot bearing when the input shaft stops turning. I do not detect that. You would have to be under the car and with the exhaust leak it’s not going to happen!
If it was bad enough to make noise the input shaft will mostly likely turn and then it would be hard to shift into reverse or all the gears.
This could mislead one into thinking the clutch is not releasing and makes for maladjusted cables.
Slack is always needed to save wear on the throw out bearing and engine movement on the motor mounts.
With all that said, I suggest you to forget about the clutch and transmission.
Between the two posters it seems the suggestions are pointing to a humming rattle and I totally agree they can be as right as rain in their post.
I had that very similar sound in the beginning of it turning worse and will write up my experience of what they are suggesting.
But I first ask for you to make sure that the aluminum heater hose, from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold, be checked for looseness. There is only one clamp that holds it to the frame and it must stay tight!
Parts on the “heating stove” of the exhaust manifold can shake the hose against the frame.
The next one, they talk about, got located within the two piece heat shields because it sounded so tinny.
These were stainless steel shields tack welded together in the 1986 days.
They had a fiberglass stuffing inside that shrunk from repetitive wetting.
I removed them as they could hold water and rust out the pipes faster.
Later on, the sound came back and it got louder with deeper growl like vibration.
This was while under the load of between first and second gear right near the top end of a normal shift.
Coming on at 2300 and really jumping louder at 3000 rpm. I would shift, dropping the rpms and the growl stopped.
Looking in the same area again, I found a plate with a vibration crack in it.
This plate is welded on to the tailpipes directly under a transmission bracket. This bracket has a bolt, going downwards goes through a bent adjusting plate. The bent plate has two adjustment slots above it.
The whole bracket itself is held by two bell housing bolts.
The lower slots get two studs with a backing plate and nuts.
Next is a weakness point, is in that there is only One skinny diameter short bolt to hold it all up!
The long twin down pipes, converter weight, all mounted with rubber doughnuts. All the while the engine swings everything under the car when under torque.
To get around this “built-in weakness,” I welded both edges of the bent “go-between” plate right on to to the tailpipes own flat strap piece of material.
This fixed the running/rubbing together “crack” that the last bolt creates. No more loosening bolt!
I can still removed the transmission bracket from the down pipes, whenever with the two upper bolts.
No more noise and it stays solid!
I like welds!
Phil
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