My 1988 244 DL with 284k+ miles is leaking from the power steering rack.

There are two types: camshaft; ZF. I checked FAQs and can't find a way to identify based upon the plates on the car. In the trunk the steering gear is #3.

Also, any tips for deciding when to change? It's apparently a slow leak (I've had the car only a week).

Can it be repaired?

Where do you recommend I buy a replacement power steering rack?

According to my VIN, digit #9 = 5 meaning a ZF22 transmission. However, a couple of websites, eg Amazon, say that the only automatic transmissions used in 1988 244s were AW70s. I tend to believe this, because my car was majorly neglected and ZF22s are less reliable. Anyone know for sure which transmission I have?

Thanks

Before driving today, my power steering fluid level at maximum (well, a little above). After driving about 15 miles without incident, I made a right turn from a parking space. I heard a groaning noise and the steering wheel was ratchety. I stopped and saw about 20 cc of fluid on the street under the power steering pump area. There was very little power steering fluid in the reservoir and it looked bubbly/frothy pink. I filled up the fluid and drove home (about 4 miles) without any problems with steering or noise.

When I opened the hood, the reseroir fluid level was fine, i.e. I didn't lose any fluid and there was no froth. However, there was pink fluid on top of the AC line below the power steering pump and top of the high pressure hose. There was no fluid that I could see or feel anywhere on the power steering pump or any hoses. I triple checked the power steering fluid high pressure line, because this massive fluid leakage made me suspect that was the culprit. However, I don't understand why that happened suddenly, then stopped for the trip home. I jacked up the car and had an assistant turn the steering wheel left and right with the engine on, but I did not see any leaks or notice a decrease in the power steering fluid reservoir.

Also, I tried to loosen the high pressure hose where it connects to the power steering pump. I used a torch, PB Blaster everywhere, and gentle hammering. I was able to loosen the flare nut, which is black and looks like a power steering pump component, but the entire hose moved as one, making it impossible to remove when I get a replacement hose. In other words, the gray/chrome threads and upper 17 mm flare nut moved in unison with the lower black flare nut. The lower flare nut is about 21-22 mm; I tried holding it with a wrench while moving the 17 mm upper flare nut, but it didn't work.

" I jacked up the car and had an assistant turn the steering wheel left and right with the engine on, "

You should have done this with the car on its wheels while you look from the top. I mean that should put a maximum pressure on the outlet hose and possibly reveal where the leak is from.

I followed your suggestion and finally found the leak. It came from the power steering pressure hose. The only leak was from the rubber portion toward the top but below the chrome area.

I checked Haynes and Bentley, but they don't specify torque for the lower bolt (17 mm?) that connects the high pressure hose to the power steering rack. Anyone know that torque?

I tried loosening the pressure hose at the top where it connects to the power steering pump. However the flare nuts above and below the pump threads move in unison and with the entire the hose, which hits against power steering pump bracket to prevent its removal. I tried copious amounts of PB Blaster. Other than removing the power steering pump, is there another way to remove the high pressure hose?

I've been monitoring my power steering fluid reservoir at least weekly and refilling it, sometimes after driving only 30 miles.

I'm using Type F without the stop leak.

The boots, pump, and hoses are all dry, so I've been unable to locate the source of the power steering fluid leak.

However, over the past week and 200 miles of driving, I have not lost any measurable amount of power steering fluid. In addition, I do not hear any whining/moaning when turning.

I also finally loosened the high pressure hose connection to the power steering fluid pump with a torch. However, the nuts on either end of the hose thread rotate as one, making it impossible for me to remove the hose from the pump in anticipation of changing out the hose and pump. Although I could just remove the hose and pump together, it would be good to know how to separate them for future reference.

Any idea as to why the leak stopped?

Using correct and clean fluid. Previous owner probably never changed the fluid. Most likely had its original or possibly wrong replacement fluid.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

I jinxed myself. It started leaking again. This time the reservoir was very low and now I'm seeing ATF fluid on top of the rear nipple of the AC pump, which is located above the power steering pump. I can't see any fluid or feel wetness on the power steering pump or its hoses. Any ideas as to where the leak is coming from?

Check the hose clamps to make sure they are tight. Specifically check the low pressure hose at both ends where it connects to the PS pump. I’ve seen both 240’s and V70’s leak at the end away from the pump. Also, closely examine both PS hoses as they could be 30 years old and in need of replacement.

Have you checked for leaks in the area of the inner tie rod boots?

Drive the car for awhile then leave it idling as you look for leaks at the pump, hoses and near the inner tie rod boots.

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Perhaps inspect the top of the power steering knuckle where the two hoses secure.

I've found the banjo fitting bolts loose and fluid seeping, more so at the high pressure hose banjo bolt fitting. (Sort of like the overhead cam redblock engine timing [mid cam and front crank seal carrier) cover hardware being loose or the M47 output flange retaining center nut being loose).

Though reports of seized banjo bolts that leak here due to corrosion at the power steering line connections at the rack that breach the copper crush washer seal.

The high pressure line has a vibration damper. The hoses can split and leak, usually high pressure, though it is rather catastrophic.

The power steering pump can leak through the pulley bearing rarely and at extreme neglect or miles or the wrong fluid (Dexron, Mercon).

The high pressure line can be rebuilt at a hydraulic line repair service (Dunno what you call these anymore). Low pressure line replacement is casually treated in the FAQ:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Steering.htm

Happy Sat-Your-Day.

No moar cGMP, Boyeeeeeee.
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Bentley calls it a steering arm. Perhaps steering knuckle is a better term to describe the part that's cracked. It's NOT the tie rod, which goes through the cracked area. No crack on the driver's side.

https://www.brickboard.com/IMAGELIB/volvopic.htm?js_link=1&id=13245

Image inconclusive.

It appears a sandcast issue as Phil Machine Man mentions.

I'll also add that some beat on the pitman arm rim with a heavy hammer while levering downward on the inner tie rod arm to free the outer tie rod from the pitman arm. Yes, I know, McPherson. I'll call it a pitman arm.

More images please.

Direct link to the object is best: https://d1271705tno707.cloudfront.net/13245.jpg




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This is a very confusing topic. I was never able to find applicable info. Type F is a very old product developed specifically for Ford products from the 60’s and 70’s and some later foreign cars such as Volvos. My take is that Mobil 1 synthetic ATF has more than enough protection/ lubricating for your PS system. Remember that your PS system is far simpler than your tranny. If you are that concerned about it do some research on the internet or call the the oil company with your questions.
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Volvo 700/900 FAQs call for Type F ATF in the power steering.

I found Type F ATF on the shelf at O'Reilly's last week.

And flush old fluid before using new.

As I did on 1990 240 DL Wagon, yet used Dexron III as misleading Haynes 1997 240 manual indicates, versus the Ford spec "Type F" the 1990 manual specifies for power steering fluid.

I flushed the olf fluid in the reservoir and rack by moving the low pressure return line from the power steering reservoir on the inner fender into a bottle, and manually turning the power steering pulley with finger after loosing the belt.

In a few years, the rack leaked massively. The geared rack and nylon bushes either end are fine. New inner and outer tie rods on a de-powered power steering rack.

You can use synthetic ATF Ford 'Type F' as Amsoil and others produce, as I use in my 1991 240 sedan, without issue.

ATF power steering fluid is Dexron / Mercon type with no hydrostatic friction that "Type F" delivers. Best for modern power steering pumps.

Yet hhhhhwhutever.
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Thanks.

Do you mean that you recommend Dexron ATF as fluid in the power steering system?

Is the power steering fluid return line connection at the base of the rack bolted on or clamped on?

Thanks

I imply Ford "Type F". Use Ford "Type F" synthetic to allay your notion "Type F" is primitive.

Do you read / have service manuals? Does the FAQ make mention? Do you look at your owner manual for spec?

No, the power steering fluid from the pump return line at the top of the reservoir secured by clamp. The hose at the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir drains or is pulled by vacuum (relative, we're speaking fluid here) into the pump when turning.

Loose the belt so you can finger-turn in the engine running direction to eject into a remote bottle or large enough container to collect the old fluid. When the reservoir is drained or about drained, begin to add new fluid until clean appearing begins to drain into the remote bottle.

Don't expect a leak cure from this action. You can try stop leak. At best a temp fix if at all. Concurrent a topic in a current, adjacent thread here.

Also, some will dangle a magnet in the fluid, or use a magnet in-line filter to filter ferrous metal bits. You inspect and wipe off the dangle magnet in the reservoir occasionally.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Steering.htm

Use whatever fluid you want. Factory fill may have been "Type F" on 1991-1992 and older. Switching to Dexron may have ruined my 1990 240 rack.
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Thanks.

In fact, I own AND read the Bentley and Haynes and read the FAQs before posting. My manuals are both dated (eg recommending Dexron ii and saying nothing about synthetics), and I trust what others on this bulletin board have to say and know that they have more up-to-date information, hence my questions.

I ask about the difference between Type F and Dexron in the power steering fluid, because I have Dexron synthetic, but not synthetic Type F. Also, I can't find the post, but someone else commented that Dexron synthetic is much superior to dino Type F and that Dexron is more than adequate.

I now have conflicting opinions: yours and his/hers, which I understand and respect. Would someone else chime in?

Also, I don't understand how Dexron would cause leaks in your situation, whereas Type F doesn't. Any theories?

Jesus H. Christ.

Research and read the spec for each as well as their application. Found easily through search.

You may find anecdotal information of those that used Dexron / Meron in a "Type F" system, with catastrophic results in a gearbox, auto tramsission, or power steering that calls for one spec or another.

I'd also not use generic ATF power steering fluid. Anything goes so the company branding and selling makes a buck so you put something meant for Honda or Nissan in that 240 power steering pump. Caveat Emptor.

Dexron contain friction modifiers that make Dexron slippery and removes hydrostatic friction whereas adds modifiers to make "Type F" what it is.

Many synthetic "Type F" offerings. I mention Amsoil SuperShift. The synthetic "Type F" is as modern as any fluid, without the "make it slippery" friction modifiers.

Dexron is a GM specification meant for GM auto transmissions and some power steering systems that mandate Dexron fluid.

The power steering rack and pump are made by TRW and require that version the owner manual recommends.

Not a matter of old or new. A matter of what the manufacturer specifies for the power steering system.

Opinion has nothing to do with it.

The debate is old. The owner manual states the spec. Find some green manuals at the Australia OZ archives and see there.

https://ozvolvo.org/archive/

Old or new versus one lube oil spec or another.

Why, because "Type F" is "old", ya gonna fill up that M46 / M47 with Dexron?

Fill up the Differential with Dexron also while you're at it.

Hmmmmm. I guess on this form a "Sheesh" is apropos.

Art Benstein?
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JHC

Patience KGV....just kidding....:)

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"You can use synthetic ATF Ford 'Type F' as Amsoil and others produce, as I use in my 1991 240 sedan, without issue."
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That is for 700’ s and 900’s. My guess is that applies to 240’s as well. Don’t know for sure...I think you are missing my point. A good Synthetic ATF such as Amsoil or Mobil 1 should provide superior lubrication to type F. But the main reason to convert your PS to synthetic is it’s parts cleaning properties. Specifically cleaning the seals. In the case of my 850, it stopped the rack from leaking. I also changed to synthetic ATF in the 850’s tranny and in over 250k miles of driving never had a leak or a tranny issue. My 90 240 had type F. By time I sold it at 300k it leaked like a sieve. I had to add ATF every fill up or two. If you are happy with type F and the PS isn’t leaking then don’t switch.
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There are no signs of leaks anywhere on the power steering rack. There is some sort of oil on top and on the underside of the center of the driver's bellow, along with oil on the metal part of the power steering pressure hose. I believe that there is not a power steering fluid leak.

However, when I inspected the suspension, I saw a clear vertical crack on the right/passenger side front of the steering arm which faces the front of the car. The crack is biggest on top and extends to the bottom. It's not through and through, meaning I can't wiggle the wheel. Brickboard FAQs say nothing about replacement, nor does my Bentley manual.

How do I go about replacing the steering arm?

Thanks

First I'd like to clear up a misconception of what I wrote in my first post on this thread. When I referred to the steering rack tube(s) - I was writing about the actual 2 inch diameter tubes the toothed rack rides in. If flushing the rack worked for another BB'er then good for him - and maybe you if you follow his lead. The seals inside the tube can only be reached by complete disassembly. I started working for an Indy Volvo shop when the 240 model was around for 9 years. Rebuilt racks were only available through Volvo and very expensive. My boss had me rebuild a number of racks using Volvo parts. It's tricky and needs extreme cleanliness.
You need to do some investigation -- clean up the rack and related parts and then look for where oil is coming from. Possibilities? -- banjo fittings (they can rust and leak), the copper washers, hose connections at the fittings, hoses can seep oil too, external metal hydraulic lines on the rack, boots fill with oil leaking from the rack tubes, etc.
You need to identify parts by their correct names - the tie rods consist of the link between the rack ends and the "tie rods ends" which screw onto the outer end of the tie rods and attach to the suspension hub assembly. The tie rods (sometimes called the "inner tie rod") differ in the way they attach to the rack depending on the brand of rack - some tie rods have a female end - others have a male end. You change the tie rods by--loosening the lock nut for the tie rod end -- remove the tie rod end from the hub assembly -- remove the tie rod end from the tie rod (count the number of turns coming off) -- remove the boot -- turn the steering wheel so the rack gets exposed beyond the tube -- peel back the locking washer (not all racks have this washer -some use a "dimple" punched into the inner edge of the tie rod) have a new washer available as they do break the tangs on removal sometimes -- loosen the tie rod from the rack.
I don't understand about the "crack" you are seeing -- could that be the lock nut for the tie rod end not seated properly? -- Dave

Thanks.

It's not the lock nut that's cracked.

The crack is on the steering arm that is between the right/passenger outer tie rod and its lock nut. In other words, the outer tie rod goes inside of the area that's cracked.

The crack is an irregular, vertical crack that faces the front of the car. I traced the metal assembly involving the crack and it goes to the base of where the strut sits.

Please post some pictures of the crack.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Bentley calls it a steering arm. Perhaps steering knuckle is a better term to describe the part that's cracked. It's NOT the tie rod, which goes through the cracked area. No crack on the driver's side.


https://www.brickboard.com/IMAGELIB/volvopic.htm?js_link=1&id=13245

Greetings M,

If that is indeed a crack, then yes, you should replace it ASAP. That's not okay.

But...I don't see a crack in that picture. From where I sit it looks like a shadow over some casting flash -and coated in plenty of oily dirt. I suggest that before going junkyard hunting for a replacement you get in there with some cleaner/rag/brush to clean it off and inspect closer.

-Will

Hi, I agree with you.

I couldn't have said anything else better (in one sentence) for what I see is just the a casting mark or a ruffle in the sand mold. The wall thickness underneath does not display any crack.

I personally have never been responsible to mold anything butI have machined lots and lots of castings.
It's my understanding that this is caused when the sand doesn't have quite enough moisture in it and the compaction didn't take and the sand to stay in place.
Sometimes, If there is too much moisture in the sand, the molten metal will hit that spot and cause a steam rupture and blow a small hole into the parts surface or disperses sand into the parts surface.

Trust me the later is hard on cutting tools! I have machined surfaces of 6-10" slabs of steel and run into pieces of furnace bricks. They rise to the surface when poured and get rolled and crushed even more in the rolling mill while white hot.
That can blow a whole load of carbide inserts corners in a large shell mill cutting head! The inserts are not cheap either, plus the time to change them.
Back in my days, the introduction of Korean steel was notorious for furnace bricks and hard scale.

Molds have Seams or a "flashing" joints. They will appear near near vents and the spire channels traveling between more than one part. These little extras get broke off or ground away during or after the shake out.

It's a real skill to reduce their terminology of "Spalling and Buckling" within the mold.
This use to be done by squeezing the sand in one's hands looking for clumping. The texture is very important as they use several different screen mesh sizes of sand and clay for a finished surface of the product.
It might be more computerized today. But that computer learns it from a skilled worker, as not all the variables remain the same all the time day to day or hour to hour in some cases!

The whole thing is a balancing act within the art or craft of sand molding. It was really dirty work from where I stood in my trade.
I got dirty enough as cast iron is the worst possible mess during machining.
No chips but granular powder and dust falls to coat everything gray.

Phil

YIKES!!!! I looked at the photo. You need a new strut assembly. The part that is cracked - the receptacle for the tie rod pin - is an integral part of the strut. Holy Smokes!! -- Dave

Do you know where the leak is coming from? If it is coming from the rack tubes as Dave mentioned then the rack needs to be replaced. However, if it is leaking from the seals it might be salvageable. My old 850 developed a minor leak too. Since replacing the rack is more difficult and expensive than on a 240 I started looking for other solutions. Discovered it was a seal leak. So I flushed the rack fluid. Then I replaced it with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. At first, the leak worsened but after about a month the synthetic cleaned the seals and leak went away...:) Did have to reflush and replace after about 2 years as the leak eventually came back. Still a much cheaper option than replacement!
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Thanks.

My mechanic diagnosed the leak. I'll jack up the car and look for the source of the leak. The power steering fluid reservoir was empty, the cap seized on when I bought the car last week. There was a grinding noise when turning the steering wheel, that went away when I filled up the reservoir. Do these circumstances suggest where the leak might be coming from?

I know very little about power steering racks. By tubes, do you mean the hydraulic line(s) from the valve body to the cylinder? Are the seals on the ends and covered by the bellowed boots?

My power steering calls for Type F ATF. Which version of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF do you use in your power steering rack.

If I have to replace the power steering rack, is there any advantage of using synthetic ATF there?

Also, someone else said that the CAM and ZF styles are interchangable in my car. I found both rebuilt with lifetime warranty, CAM a little less expensive. Does it matter which one I get in terms of durability?

Find out where the leak is. Check the reservoir and the low pressure hose that connects to it. I’ve seen that hose leak. It is probably original and 30 years old.

100% Synthetic ATF is suitable for all versions AFAIK. There are no versions. I know people here on the BB have used it in their 240 and 940 racks.

Exceptions to using generic synthetic ATF could be the newer cars which call for a specific ATF. For example, Volvo V70’s 2001+ call for one very specific type of fluid. I imagine that applies to all more modern cars.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

The synthetic ATF that I've found is only specified for Dexron, ie not Type F. Do you think it's safe to use Dexron synthetic ATF in the power steering system?

Thanks!

The ZF transmission was not used in the 240 series cars. The steering rack designation is only useful in determining what was originally in the car. CAM racks (not camshaft) and ZF racks are interchangeable (except for the tie rods where they attach to the rack--the tie rod ends are interchangeable) so given the age of your car either could be there now. When a rack leaks from the rack tube the only answer would be to rebuild or replace. - Dave

Thank you.

Do you mean that any outer tie rod type for this car that will fit both the CAM and the ZF power steering racks?

Also, rebuilt CAM style power steering racks are about half the price of the ZFs. Does it matter which one I install in terms of which one will last longer?

Use the YouTube search feature.
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