I will be replacing the radiator on this car. Do I have to remove the belly pan, or can I just drop it in back by removing the two rear bolts so I can drain the coolant into a pan? (I am looking for the least hassle.) Also, is there any advantage to putting the car on ramps for this?

Will a new Volvo radiator come with the little plug and rubber washer for the sensor, or must I order it separately?

Thanks.

I just eyeballed the setup on my 94 and I do not see the need to drop the belly pan. It does not meet the radiator, but attaches behind it.

Also, the FAQ mentions the air dam attaches to the radiator. On my 94 it does not.

It looks like the radiator can be removed without removal of the belly pan or air dam.

Also, what is the best technique for removal/install of the temp sensor on the side of the radiator?

I see it is not threaded. Pop in and out?

You are correct that you can remove the radiator without removing the belly pan. However, I am removing mine so I can drain the coolant into a catch pan, which is impossible without removing it.

I imagine the sensor can be made to pop out with pliers.

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. I remove the belly pan, as that eases seating the radiator onto the rubber "cushions", that fit into the steel radiator cross-member, on which the radiator rests. To remove the belly pan, I remove the six fasteners, that secure it.

To get enough room to access the belly pan's fasteners and to lower the belly pan, I use a jack to raise the car. I use two jack-stands - one on either side of the car - to ensure safety; jacks sometimes fail without warning. I sold my ramps because they do not provide enough ground clearance.

Some radiators come with the plug for the sensor opening. These parts can be had from a Volvo dealer for small money. I use brass wire - placed over a radiator fin and around the upper transmission cooling pipe - to secure the plug against "blow-out".

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I find this post timely, as I too am about to swap a radiator...

Spook, what sensor plug are you referring to? Would not the temp sensor itself go into said sensor opening?

Thanks for the info.

The temp sensor is below the intake manifold. Pretty sure they are talking about the older volvos that has a sensor opening for the electric cooling fan. Most manufactures' make a rad covering alot of year groups.
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Dear aleekat,

Hope you're well. 940s with Rex/Regina engine/ignition management have a coolant temperature sensor mounted in the radiator's passenger-side plastic side-tank. Cars with Bosch engine/ignition management do not have this sensor.

Radiator makers should supply a plug (#1274052, $3, at a US-based Volvo dealer) and grommet (#1378869, $6) for cars that do not have an in-radiator temperature sensor.

Lubricate the plug with dishwashing liquid. I use a large water-pump pliers gently to press-in the plug. I use a loop of brass wire - over a radiator fin and the top transmission coolant pipe - to secure the plug.

I do this to prevent another plug "blow-out", which - happily - did not result in any overheating, thanks to: (a) a cold engine on a chilly day, (b) a very short journey, and (c) a retro-fitted low coolant indicator light.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I'm not familiar with the Rex system. So what temp sensor is that? What does it do?
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Dear aleekat,

Hope you're well. The in-radiator temperature sensor controls the cooling fan. The engine coolant temperature sensor is under the rear intake manifold runner.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Well that's what I said. But you said the Rex was different. 900s triggers by ECU.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm#ElectricCoolingFanOperation
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Spook,

Can you describe the circumstances surrounding the plug blowing out event? I used a safety wire when I did this last, but I always assumed such blow outs were urban legend.

Thanks.

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. I can't say more than I said. I don't know why the plug worked loose, only that it did.

On a related point, I'd change the thermostat. Repeatedly saturate the nuts on the thermostat housing with PB Blaster, Kroil, or other penetrating oil.

When tightening the nuts, go gently. The studs go into aluminum and little pressure beyond snug is needed to prevent leaks, if a new gasket is used, as it should be.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks, Spook. By "new gasket" you are referring only to the rubber o ring that goes around the thermostat, yes? Thanks.

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. Affirmative that: "gasket" refers to a black rubber sealing ring, that fits around the thermostat's perimeter and so beneath the thermostat housing.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I realize I am to torque lightly on the thermostat housing nuts, but are there any torque specifications for these? Thanks.

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. I don't use a torque wrench. As aleekat suggests, tighten slowly and gently, alternating sides, until snug.

Coolant pressure isn't hugely high. If there's a bleed leak - not likely - You can always tighten another 1/16th turn.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I never use a torque wrench on those for fear of snapping them off. Tighten them equally from one to the other till snug.
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...Also, what is your opinion on replacing the thermostat? I note the FAQ seems to recommend this. I have always changed my coolant, though, and wondered if it was worth it. No overheating issues. Thanks.

Changing the coolant on schedule is not just to simply guard against overheating. The corrosion inhibitors get used up and refreshing the coolant provides consistent corrosion protection.

Personally, if I were replacing the radiator I’d replace the thermostat too unless it is fairly new. They are cheap.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....