My 1990 240 wagon has had an intermittent no start problem and died on the road one time. The time it died on the road it started right up after towing it home. Each time I had the no start problem I checked on Brickboard and "fixed" something. Six months ago I had the engine and chassis steam cleaned and had no immediate problem. However, the problem appeared about 3 months ago. What I have done; Replaced 25A fuse holder and fuse, cleaned MAS and throttle body, cleaned and lubed with dielectric grease every connection and socket I could find under the hood, replaced the fuel pump relay and crank sensor and cleaned all fuse clips and fuse ends. There is no power to the main fuel pump while cranking. The OBD, with the pin in #2, gives a code of 2-3-2 which I read as a lambda problem. It is my understanding that non turbo cars do not have a lambda sensor. Needless to say I am at a loss. Any input is welcomed gratefully. I do love my car and for four years it has been stone reliable but right now it needs help, (and me too).

Phil

I had a similar problem with my 88 240. It stranded me several times and then it would behave. After chasing it around the block with parts, it turned out to be the Ignition Control Module.

I just happen to have one in my "Save all things Volvo BOX! It looked worse than the one I had in the car but it worked and continues to work! They are also available on line either used or rebuilt.

Prior to that I put in a New fuel Pump & Fuel Filter, FP relay, FP Pressure Reg., spark plugs___ Had all Injectors professionally clean & tested. Then finally I tried that old beat up ICM and boom fire in the hole!

The way I found the problem was to systematically go through the BENTLY BIG BLUE repair Manual for the Ignition & Spark detection section because I was wondering if the Distributor was bag but it turned out to be OK and in the process I found the tricky failing ICM.

Hey Phil,

Do this. Wire a jumper between fuses 4 and 6 and try starting it. If it starts and runs as long as the jumper is there, but quits when you remove it, check the fuel ECU (Jetronic box to the right of your passenger's feet) to see what color label it has.



The 232 you get isn't really specific to any component or part, and the word "lambda" refers to the oxygen sensor output -- your car came with one.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Never trust the work of the last guy, even if you're the last guy"

Hi Art,
Thank you for the reply.
With #4 & 6 jumped it started and ran, and died when jumper removed. The check engine light came on.
The label on the ECU is pink.
Phil

Phil,

You need to replace the ECU. Assuming yours is the -561 (LH2.4 49-state) type, try to find one with a white label, or the more common -951 which was used in later cars.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage - to move in the opposite direction."
-Albert Einstein

Excellent. Thank you for your help.
Phil

You're welcome of course. Take some solace in knowing this same issue, sometimes referred to as "pink label syndrome" is widespread, and totally fixed with the white-label version of that same computer and all the later versions.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Wise sayings often fall on barren ground, but a kind word is never thrown away."
-Sir Arthur Helps

Received and installed white label 951 unit, problems solved. Life is good!
Phil

It is at it again!! After replacing the CPU the car ran perfectly for a month then a week ago Saturday I started out to do a few errands. Car started and ran fine until it didn't. The first few times I tried to start it, it would catch and die. Then it just wouldn't even catch. Had it towed home, charged battery overnight and the next morning it started and ran fine. It has since started perfectly several times and drives just fine. No codes on OBD. The CPU I installed is used but I can't imagine it would fail with the same symptoms as the old one (no start, tow home, then start). I am afraid to drive it anywhere where I have to shut it off and restart it. Is it time to take it to a garage?

The symptoms don't sound the same to me, however much to you it ends up in the same result -- can't drive it. The pink label syndrome is permanent. Once it stops engaging the fuel pump, it never does again. It isn't a come-and-go problem like a poor connection or moisture.

Try to approach this without the history in mind, or if you need more convincing, put your old ECU back and see how different no-start is from occasionally not starting and then OK in the morning after getting the battery charged. A new thread is suggested.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore


"Technically, Windows is an 'operating system,' which means that it supplies your computer with the basic commands that it needs to suddenly, with no warning whatsoever, stop operating." -Dave Barry

After recently(last week) learning a hard lesson, have you checked and verified the basics:

- spark,
- fuel,
- compression

I'm only asking as I can't tell from your post.

I had a coil go bad on my S70, and even though I had a spare at home, I forgot to check it. That was a costly mistake I will not make again.

Matt