For my 1980 242 DL 4 speed, I would like to install a fuel pump or ignition kill switch.

I can't find the wiring diagram for my car so I'm wondering if you would walk me the the best place to split a wire to the fuel pump or ignition in the engine bay.

Thanks

Your fuel relay is above your left knee, right between the steering column and the hood release.

If I were to do what you're thinking of doing, I'd conceal a switch that would provide a ground to the white/red wire(s) you see at the relay socket. This is the coil negative, which supplies the tach signal to the fuel relay, so a ground there would disable both spark and fuel delivery. The main advantage of doing it this way is the kill switch does not need to carry much current, nor is it part of the fuel system needed for reliability when the car isn't being stolen.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

“Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle.” -Socrates

For my 1980 242 DL, I found a relay above the driver's left knee, as per Art's recommendation.

I'm concerned, because it's black in color and there seems to be some disagreement about its purpose.

Is the red-white wire the correct one to install the kill switch?

Thanks!

The most definitive way to confirm you have the right part is to identify the wiring colors. Your 1980 fuel relay will have white/red, blue/red, red, blue, yellow/red, and black wires.

The pigment used in the plastic cover of the relay is not defined. I've seen them yellow, red, black, and green. Different versions with different circuitry, yet all with the same function. It shuts off the fuel when the motor stops turning.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Always remember that you're unique. Just like everyone else.

Interesting. The gold one in the center of your array seems to be a match for the black one I am familiar with.

The one on the right seems to be an exact match for the one I replaced which is the one in my pic.

But the one on the left is obviously a different part as evidenced by the part numbers and the amperage. What is up with that?

And, by the way, do you know the amps for the gold or black or whatever color variety (1235337)? Perhaps I should not be using it in my car?


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

I'm pretty sure you don't have a problem with your choice of relays. The current rating for a unit like this is
mostly dependent on the set of contact points on the relay itself internally. The two look identical to me,
so, I guess it uses a 30A open frame relay like the one that actually calls it out on the case.

Sorry, here's the "big picture."



The common misconception with this relay is that it fails from overcurrent. In actual service, it is the socket's female terminals
that fail to support the normal current (< 10A) once moisture and age has increased contact resistance.
The resulting burn gets reflected on the relay pin and may even harm the relay as collateral damage. One Volvo enthusiast we all know sells us on
the idea to fix this by daisy-chaining a cube relay to "offload" the fuel pump current -- and it works, because the real offending connections are all
renewed in the process of making the modification. And it adds conversation value to a modder's hobby.

So if you have a relay that looks like this, fix the socket first.



My research tells me the 1235337 = 1323152 = 1348600 = 3523639 but I'd bet an expert (e.g. planetman) could trace the history.
An interesting view of when and why part numbers get changed (or don't) can be had by searching "fff rules" whereby
unique identification of parts in an assembly is made by fit, form, and function.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Carefully pry (If this were a Jaguar you would prise)..." -BrickDad

Prior to the green fuel pump relay, like the one in Art's picture, the OE fuel pump relay for the 240 with K-Jet was black. This is for '79 and later. '78 and earlier used a different relay and it is not interchangeable with the later one.

If you look closely at the one in your car you will see the Stribel trademark. It looks a little like a dollar sign. See pix below.

There is some internal difference, I forget what exactly, but it functions the same.

When the green relay in my 1980 242 became unreliable I bought a new relay (KAE brand as Stribel doesn't make them anymore) but I keep it as a spare in the glovebox.

What did I replace the green relay with? The black relay from my old '79. It has seen 200k + miles of service and it still works fine.









--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

Thanks.

I just found the red/white wire.

Would a 10 Amp switch work?

I'm thinking about installing it close, right next to the black felt fabric that covers the underside of the dash. Any thoughts about that?

Thanks

Sounds like a plan. In your 1980, the black wire on the fuel pump relay socket is ground, so you could wire your switch between black and white/red.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Two antennas met on a roof, fell in love and got married. The ceremony wasn't much, but the reception was excellent.

Hi,

I see you are getting the best information on your car from those who have more experience with the K-Jet system.
In the beginning I said as I remember! Well now! That now appears to be totally bogus!
I don’t remember anything! I remember my 1984 better but knew it was not the same.
Oh! How much different it really is.
Come to think of it, I have not ever had to deal with a fuel pump relay on my 1978 GT.

To Art and CB, thanks for the bail out of the “He doesn’t know what he is talking about, jail!”

To mike!
A ten ampere switch is a little over kill but it will not hurt a thing to use it.
That is, if, In thinking like most Americans, bigger is always better! :-).
It’s just larger than needed when you are trying to be inconspicuous.
Personally, I would not put it anywhere near the ignition switch as most people see enough movies to think that is the place to go, to to bypass your key, they don’t have!
I thought steering locks were suppose to stop that but I guess not?

I understand the reasoning for wanting it close by.
Why hassle yourself more than the crook or an unauthorized person, who wants to use your car, just because it’s there, not being used.
Nothing like having a 14 year old in the neighborhood that just might take that old car for a joy ride in a field someplace.
We were all teenagers once!

I had momentary thoughts for sometime after my last post and realized I didn’t answer your question about which of the two systems would be best to shut off.
Art, brings up his choices and combined them with his junction spot.
He knows his stuff and great pictures.

I did not explain why shutting down the fuel pumps would be best!
My logic and maybe his, is on any engine you don’t want raw fuel getting dumped into the cylinders. This washes down any oil on the cylinder walls and drips down past the rings to dilute the oil in the sump.
This happens because the flap is raised by the air flow from cranking.
The fuel distributor opens slots to ALL the injectors at once. These will pop open up under the fuel pump pressure supply.
That’s where the term Continuous Injection System - CIS comes from.
On a really cold engine it will get another dose from the cold start, thermally controlled, injector.

The move to the LH was to still do the same thing but only in pairs electronically.
In theory, this was to conserve fuel or possible waste during a cold start. The cold start injector was later completely removed too!
By using an electronic pulse width time, starting ahead of the valve actually opening, as before!
It came out to be almost the same.
Otherwise, there is not enough time to mix enough fuel into the amount of air needed for a cylinder in time at higher speed. We are probably talking about in a neighborhood of X nano seconds.

This brings me back to calling the computer in the kick panel an ECU. Even with what said CB about it NOT being a full blown ECU it is technically not true IMHO.
It is at least half that of one. It is a Lambda (translated to mean “perfect”) mixture computer working with an oxygen sensor signal. It electronically controls a frequency valve on the K-jet. This valve is a mechanical dump device. It sends gasoline back to the fuel tank to get what the LH does by not issuing fuel in the first place by less pluse width.

The LH system was built on the back of the K-Jet which IMO gained almost nothing except to get ether emissions during warmup and some fuel saving during a cold start.
The LH ECU just has more to process because of added details.
The LH is also better, after several years of tweaking, adding more sensors and opening up areas of programming to handle the changing engine conditions.
This ALL, In the search of the holy grail of perfection, which does not and cannot exist IMO.
Our brains drive this passion onwards.

This is why, after 125 years, we are still playing with the internal combustion piston engines of today!

Personally it’s been a good ride but the end maybe in sight!
There will always be “in someone’s mind” to try to keep the “Pursuit of perfection” alive!
We shall or must move on .... electronically and with a form of electricity management only!we need to discover the limits of both, of which are very tantalizing!

The pearls of the world are still awaiting discovery!

I applaud your efforts to create a kill switch for yourself. It will be where you want it and how you want to operate it.
This project is a great confidence builder to discover the many opportunities to make you grow and expand the world you live in.

Phil

"It is a Lambda (translated to mean “perfect”) mixture computer working with an oxygen sensor signal. It electronically controls a frequency valve on the K-jet."

Yup. It is an analog computer. Those of us who remember analog computers are dwindling in numbers.

You can read how it works based on my own attempt to understand it here:

0280 800 001 and 0280 800 021 Notes on Operation
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

“Education is the kindling of a flame, not the filling of a vessel.” -Socrates

Thank you gentlemen for being so understanding!

I went to that link Art. Yikes!

That’s going to take me a wintah of studying to understand that! That indeed is a real puzzlah. I even showed it to my wife and her eyes wiggled at all the squiggles on the schematic.

Today I am traveling through Colorado to Denver to my USS Dixie AD-14 navy reunion. So I will be back in touch a bit later.

I haven’t had that much experience doing wipers. We have been on the road since the 4th enjoying a little vacation as we go.

Phil

The squigglies are just shorthand for the words.

"Today I am traveling through Colorado to Denver to my USS Dixie AD-14 navy reunion."

An easy question... what kind of car are you traveling in?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a broken fan belt and leaky tire.

Hi Art,

Yes there is an easy answer to that question.
I’m in my 1992 Volvo 244 from the Wagonmeister.
The same one I bought from him two years ago.
Nothing changed about it except the 20,000 more miles than when I got it from him.
I did do a starter solenoid modification, about a year ago now, for a one time no crank hiccup.

I have been running the car on this trip, a lot, between 7,250 and 10,180 feet. There is lots of high terrain on I-70 to get across Utah and Colorado.

It still pulls a steady 40 MPH on the steepest and there are several more cars that are not blasting by me. This, even though they are 6 cylinders and 30%+ that are suppose to have 100 plus more hp than I have. Something doesn’t look to be working right like sales brochures say they should, up in the high country!
If the engine cannot get the oxygen it needs those larger BHP numbers mean nothing on the long climbs despite more gear speeds.

I have you know I was not the slowest car on the road either!
I passed nine other newer cars and one truck on the grades.

It just so happens that the nine cars were on that truck!
:-)

Phil

"I have you know I was not the slowest car on the road either!
I passed nine other newer cars and one truck on the grades.
It just so happens that the nine cars were on that truck!" -machine man

Quoted!

My '89 wagon knows that road. About 10 years ago, the high part above Denver revealed to my daughter the need for the lift pump in the fuel tank.

Thanks for your reply, and best wishes for a safe journey.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

If you think nobody cares if you're alive, try missing a couple of car payments.

Phil,
my recent case "not know what he's talking about" happened back in May and the thread seems to be on permanet display on the home page of the BB re; gnd point for the fuel pump harness.
Even tho I have the manuals on the shelf that show where that is AND I owned a '75. The insistance of a poorly remembered detail...LOL

Charlie

[RWD] 𖑀] 󞩨] A few notes on what may have been confusing

Thanks.

I only chose 10 Amps, because that was the smallest size switch AND a switch without an LED light, which would defeat the purpose of the switch being discrete.

Art, your pictures rock!

Thanks, everyone.

I'm going to look at the ignition coil and the ignition system wiring. All things equal, any recommendations as to which system would be better to install the kill switch?

Thanks

Hi,

Like it has been noted that you have a mechanical injection system so it's not equal to an LH.

The coil positive side is not the best place. A lead off the positive post of the battery would restore power to the coil. This can be Done easily under the hood, since if they got access to the cars interior, the hood opening is easy.

Going to the fuel pumps power side would require a heavier duty amperage switch.
You can cut into the relays control circuit as that is a far smaller power draw.

Going from the passenger side from that fuel pump relay and putting the switch under or near the passengers seat or in the console could be a nice hiding place. The wiring can go under the carpet.


Maybe a toggle switch handle sticking out into the slot of the parking brake handle that can be tripped by a hair comb could be nifty.

On my motorcycle I can only reach that switch with the tip of my finger. I have to insert up into a tight place underneath the frame and engine. You really have to know it there to even find it.
It cuts the negative side of the points, so, in essence its has no breaker points.

Again, imagination has to do its thing!

Phil

Thanks.

It sounds like a fuel pump relay would be the best place, right?

If so, what amperage of switch do you recommend?

I can't find a fuel pump relay anywhere on the passenger side inside the engine compartment.

Thanks

Hi,

If I remember correctly it is in the same place that the early years of the LH’s put in two separate square metal cap relays until around 1985. This was when Volvo combined those two unit relays into one larger plastic covered relay.

So with that information, you should look under the glove box area for only one relay. It’s mounted in the wiring harness that’s strapped along the console or up higher under the box.
Yes this relay is wired up to the ECU that controls the relay.
A diagram of the relays internal circuitry is stamped on into the meatball case. You will want to get a switch wired into the system to break the wire to one side of the magnetic coil that closes the contacts.
The K jets uses an ECU that is in the kick panel to the far right to ground the circuit to turn on the pumps. Breaking either side +/- does the job.
Which ever you chose leave notes in your owner’s or shop manual. Most manual have pages that are left blank intentionally for this purpose. Most people never use them despite its intent. Fill in a paragraph, so some bloke, getting the car later, has a clue ...What is this switch doing there?

The ICU, that controls ignition, is out under the hood. It’s a square black box and is innocently in plain view and not complicated looking when compared to the LH’s box that’s in the same relative area. Someone suggested cutting out the hall sensor from the distributor but that is a weak signal at best and a headache at its worse.
If you study the two systems you can see the growth of evolution the cars went through over time.

As far as the rating on the switch, it’s being used in the controller circuit of a relay. Low currents are used there.
Any single pole, single throw, on-off. A one or two ampere switch of any style will work.
You can use push button on-off or a toggle flipper. Similar to the Flush mount type used on the console, to the type that have a long or short batons.
The flush mount requires more work to cut out a rectangle hole where many others require only a round hole in a bracket, structural brace or plastic housing.

Hope this helps you think out your project.

Phil

Phil.
The 1980 K=Jet does not have an ECU that controls the FI system. That computer under the kick panel is the Lambda control unit. Tho it is part of the Fuel Management/Emissions system---rich/lean control.

The FI Relay in under the Drivers side knee panel, somewhere above clutch pedal.
my original one was green plastic. The new Volvo one that I have now is white.

Hi,

Out under the hood you could hide a switch cutting off the power to the ignition coil.

Under the dash, specifically under the glove box you could just remove a fuel pump relay and hide it someplace. You put in a switch elsewhere that cuts the power to the relay.

There also should be a fused circuit controlling many items that you can place a disabling switch into.
Anti-thief alarms use lots of choices. When they don’t work right, like their suppose too, that in itself, can be a headache to troubleshoot.

When I was a teenager my 1971 motorcycle, that I still have, uses breaker points. I put a switch in that circuit to remove them so it would not run even if it was hot wired. I did that right after I got the bike.

That still didn’t keep them from stealing a generator, some eight years later, that cost me $150.
I found out, by rumor, that it was a person’s son, at my place of employment took it, even though it was right in front of a security guard shack. I just couldn’t prove it but between the two they knew his rounds.

So, just in case my used one didn’t fix his, I decided I wasn’t going to give him my new one either.

I later, put in Allen head socket set screws in the head of the two hex head bolts that held the generator in the crankcase.
The screws went through the top head and protruded alongside the body of the bolt.
This way the screw created a pin, like a shaft key, out into the inside diameter of the bolt hole.

Installation went this way.
I put the bolt in that holds the generator and torqued it to specifications. I dimpled the case through the set screw hole. Remove the bolt and drill a clearance hole for the set screw.
Put the bolt back in and torqued it again. I put in the set screw and it goes through the head and keys the bolt in place to the crankcase.
In order to remove those two bolts it best to to have an Allen wrench or you are really not going to rotate that bolt head. Nor will it be tighten or loosen any. There is no snapping off the bolt head if it doesn’t turn. No stretch or twisting.
I haven’t tried it of course, but I’m thinking a socket will crack or the head will round off first.
The set screws I used are the black oxide hardened ones.

Anyway use your imagination and think like a thief. They are opportunistic and lazy so if it’s slightly hard to find they won’t look it for very long.

Good luck!

Phil

Thanks.

Which wire on the ignition coil would I want to connect the switch?

I also just thought that along the driver's side firewall there was a red wire and a 25 Amp fuse that has something to do with fuel injection. If so, I thought that I could install wiring for the kill switch, then easily route it under the driver's seat.

http://volvowiringdiagrams.com/

See the folder for K-Jetronic and also 240.

In that folder is "TP30057-1 1980 240 260 Wiring Diagrams.pdf".

I'm unsure if any wire insulation color changes. Yet still Bosch K-Jetronic / Electronic Ignition.

Yep, as Machine Man Phile says.

See the fuse panel after removing the cover? You could insert a wire length at the (as you see the fuses) right load side switch with terminal spade at one end of the fuse panel backside, to the switch, and a connector or splice at the other end to continue the connection. Appropriate insulation for such conditions.

25 Amp fuse on the driver side firewall for your model year.

Lest Art indicates otherwise. I don't have all my service manuals with me here.

Hope that halps.

Beer for Sat-Your-Day Breakfast MacDuff.
(No more cGMPs)
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.

there is no underthehood 25amp fuse in the K-Jet system. that came in with the LH systems.....That's because the K-Jet - aka CIS Constant Injection System - is a mechanical FI system, where the LH systems have triggered fuel injectors controlled by a computer.

if you want to disable the Fuel Injection Pump---that fuse is in the fuse panel...

Other than that I highly recomnd that you download this Guide.

Volvo Problem Solver - Advanced Edition

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/Trouble%20Shooting%20Guides

There is other usefull Info on this site --- go to the Home page for a list.