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Ruined rack? Tie rod end woes, how depressed should I be? 700 1991

I needed to replace outer tie rod end. So after disengaging from control arm, it won't rotate off inner tie rod. NE Ohio rust belt! Tried to hold inner with wrench and/or locking pliers, but may have rotated inner like 1/8 turn. Is this far enough to blow out seals, because there is a leak from the other side. Also, how do I get inner out? I looked at FAQ but not sure of reference to peened, but I do see an indentation. Can I put locking pliers on rack and rotate the tie rods? BTW, I replaced rack about 10 years ago with new rack, about $1200? Despite my many repairs (car runs great) I don't think it's worth $1200, so am quite unhappy at the moment. Thanks.








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    Ruined rack? Tie rod end woes, how depressed should I be? 700 1991

    How many miles since the current rack was first installed?


    http://www.jorgenauto.com/rack-pinion/volvo.html

    If replacing the tie rods, inner and outer wear about the same. Always both sides if you can.

    If you have the boots off, don't forget to grease the geared rack. It slides through two large nylon bushing at either end. Enough grease to lube, yet you want the air moving freely left to right as you turn the steering wheel with the sealed inner tie rod rack accordion style boot covers.

    If not yet released from what some may call, the Pitman arm, what the outer tie rod ball joint bolt secures, what I do ...

    Restore the (actual strut assembly) ball joint connection to the control arm.

    Lock the steering into a position you have best access to the outer tie rod end you mean to remove.

    You are properly supporting the unibody. Quality axle stands at the jack point. Parking brake on, wheels chocked.

    As you are certain the outer tie rod has failed, as you are replacing it, use a bottle nose jack or a well aligned trolley (floor) jack. Press up on the underside of the outer tie rod that houses the ball.

    You will see the strut assembly spring compress. Not so much you raise the unibody off the supporting jack.

    Pressing up on the underside of the outer tie rod forces greater friction on the interface between the outer conical (tapered) tie rod end bolt thread thingy and the inside conical round end of the Pitman arm interior.

    Maybe use Kroil on the thread?

    If no bottle jack, another way to release it, with strut secured to control arm, is to use a tire iron atop the tie rod shaft closest to the outer tie rod, and a heavy hammer. A three or five pound hammer on the Pitman arm exterior at the end of the circle furtherest from strut end. A sturdy rap by the hammer with downward force should release it. The heavy hammer distorts the round shape as well as braking an corrosion bond.

    Yet you say it turn with the nut. So try a jack to keep the tie rod thread from turning so you can remove the nut.

    Hope that halps yoo.

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    Ruined rack? Tie rod end woes, how depressed should I be? 700 1991

    On every rack and pinion steering I have worked on, the inner tie rod can be rotated 360 degrees round and round with no harm. That is how the toe in is adjusted.
    Reinsert the tie rod end into the control arm loosen the lock nut and put a good wrench on the flats of the inner tie rod, that's what they are there for. With enough oil and muscle the tie rod end will unscrew. Tom








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    Ruined rack? Tie rod end woes, how depressed should I be? 700 1991

    look here-

    https://www.volvowholesalepartsdirect.com/a/Volvo_1991_740/42823266__5704258/Steering-gear/GR-67411.html

    disregarding left or right on your car, you are trying to remove 30 from 4, with 31 the locknut. the 1/8 turn you felt or saw was 4 unscrewing from 5, the actual rack. the seals surround 5. the inner tie rod-4, has no seals, only the boots to keep dirt out. apply heat, get a better grip on the inner, like a wrench to fit the flats, make sure the locknut is loose and continue. good luck, chuck.







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