Like the subject says.

Everything was running great. Did a little wiring cleanup (replaced the wire from coil to points), and now it won't start. No spark.

I'm using an original Coil and ignition switch.

The wire to the points is installed.

I have verified the points are closed when on the flat, and open when on the lobe

The coil measures 10K and 4 Ohms

The Capacitor measures .3 mF or 300nF

There is 12V at the Coil +

It's a 61 that has been converted to B18/12V with 12V coil.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

-Vetsen

When spark is lost during normal circumstances, the first component that comes to mind is the condenser.

If you want to check that, merely disconnect it. The car will run without it - it is a dead end that stores electricity. It fails as a short - no spark, or an open - damage to your points.

I spent about 8 years doing a variety of electrical trouble shooting and one of my precepts is - what just happened?

As others have properly suggested, carefully check your work.

If you have a shop manual, you should always give it a look-see, you might see a tip to help even simple work.

Is it possible you caused the problem when you replaced the wire from the distributor to the coil?

If you have 1 of the older Bosch distributors that use a small bolt for the points and condenser connection, its critical that the bolt and any metallic mounting hardware doesn't touch the distributor housing.

Check inside the distributor to see if the special shaped washer(if used) rotated when you tightened the nut for the wire to the coil.

If that is okay, then check the insulators for the bolt.

If you need 1, new distributor post kits are available and I keep them in stock.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Steve;

I agree with Eric...when loosening throughbolt at Dist to replace Points wire, it may have gotten uncentered and is now touching Dist housing...so Points may be physically opening, but not electrically...no spark results...see: https://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignition%20from%20Scratch.htm#Troubleshooting%20IGNition%20System

Good Hunting!

I got it running after messing with the points screw terminal.

Turns out I had tightened the first nut too tight and grounded out the square washer with two prongs to the inside wall of the distributer. I also added a bit of tubing to the screw, a bit of insulation to the spring of the points.

Wow what a mess in there. I hope it lasts. at least I know now if it fails.

Now to replace all the bushings in the front and rear ends.

Much thanks to everyone.

-Steven

"Check inside the distributor to see if the special shaped washer(if used) rotated when you tightened the nut for the wire to the coil."

Guess I was right.

Although not a bad idea, but with the correct parts, your piece of tubing is not needed.

FYI, new distributor post kits are still available and in stock.





--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Yup.
I've made that mistake before. (points shorting to distributor body)

Sometimes the end of the spring can touch the inside of the dizzy body. With the ignition on if you don't get a spark across the points when you flick them open it can confirm that you have short in the connecter bolt set up. The way the washers/insulators are arranged on the bolt along with the spring is logical when you know the shorting problem, but you have to think about it as you fit them.