I've got a 65 wagon with an axle off a 64, which has Wagner brakes.
I'd like to convert to Girling. Are the backing plate holes in the
same location for both types of braking systems? I'm assuming I'll
need to bend a new brake line. I'm also assuming the hand brake
cables will still fit the Girling brakes?

Thanks

I didn't know Wagner brakes were used on any year except '68. My '68 122 & 1800 both have Wagner. Many of the Rambler American's from the '60's, and also some International Scouts used the same Wagner set-up. Some of the hardware can be hard to find.

Early 122 wagons came with 10" Wagner front drum brakes and were also equipped with the same Wagner 9" rear brakes used on the 544/P210.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Direct bolt on replacement. No modifications needed.

I suggest using new grade 8 hardware.

Do you have a proper brake drum puller?

The brake drums can be difficult to remove and a 3 or 5 jaw puller can easily bend the drum.

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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Thanks for the info. I have a puller someone welded up for me that fastens
to the wheel studs and presses on the end of the axle shaft as you turn a
large bolt. I wouldn't mind finding something not homemade just in case.
I just love it when the drum breaks free with a bang ;)

I'm an old hand on 122s, I've just never done this particular task, and
my apartment complex frowns on car servicing, so I have to get in and out before
I'm spotted, and I try to avoid any head scratching or trips to the hardware store.

Sometimes homemade is best.

My brother made the drum puller we still use that same puller almost 30 years later and we still make them for sale and offer them for rent.

They aren't pretty, but we abuse the hell out this tool. It is sometimes necessary to beat on the head of the bolt when the drum is stuck.

When our air guns won't remove the drum by themselves, we use a copper hammer and hit the head of the bolt. Then we use an air gun again and repeat until the drum is removed.

The original Volvo tool works in a pinch, but you have to beat on the "T" bar with a hammer instead of using an air gun or if you don't have 1, a breaker bar and cheater bar.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

William;

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a home made Drum Puller as long as it meets the two critical construction and operating requirements: Concentric compression (pulling) force application to multiple Lugstuds (3 is OK, 5 is best when maximum force is required!) with respect to Axle Stub.

While you have Drum removed, I highly recommend doing a preventative rebuild/repack with graphite grease, of the Adjusters, if this has not yet been done (only needs to be done once!).

See: https://www.sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.htm
...and: https://www.sw-em.com/brake_notes.htm

Cheers