Thanks all, turned out to be the sensor lever jammed and was holding the sensor plate up causing it to flood out. Lucky I had a spare.Did the clean up in cylinders and changed oil and filter and got it running.
Thanks for all your help.
Charlie

Thanks for all the input guy's,The one thing good is I know my way around this engine and just about everything I have replace over the years. Rebuilt engine a few years ago and didn't have any problems until now.
I do have a lot of spare parts that I got over the years.I do have a spare CPR and fuel pressure regulator. So now after the cleaning I will start checking things.So now the fun starts.
Any other thoughts just through them at me.
Thanks,Charlie

Hi,

What shape is the timing belt in? Check for the cam turning or timing as the belt might have jumped.

The 1984 year is getting up into the last years of CIS and the first years of the LH 1.0.

The first thing to do is to investigate the wiring harness as the LH's suffered big time issues with deteriorating insulation in the harness sheath. I don't know if this affected the turbo's or K-Jets.
On the older early K-Jet's there is a time controlled cold start system that should only work while cranking the engine. Its possible that it could flood all the plugs.

Another way to flood the mechanical system is losing control pressure on top of the fuel distributor.
This would allow the flap to rise to high under less air flow into the engine. This would cause a rich running condition.
If the flap has become stuck in a higher position it would cause the same thing. You have to remove the rubber boot to check the swing of the air flap. It should be very free to move up and down with only the slightest breeze puffed in under the flap plate. A distant, real soft blast of air into the intake hose that comes from the air filter should softly raise the plate and it fall back down.

If it's sticking you can spray things down in there with carb cleaner and check for the plate to be centered with a bright light from underneath.


The control pressure regulators are very reliable but they get heated during warmup to slow the engine down from a fast idle. Check wiring to it and test for resistance of the heater inside.
Don't condemn it to quickly as they are very expensive nowadays.
I bought one in my early years for about $100 and it changed nothing.
It was something a lot simpler but I don't remember the symptoms.
I learned a lot since then and that this system is very trouble free if compared to the LH. You just keep fresh clean fuel in them and that is all it will ask of you other than a pump over many many years.
A turbo maybe an animal of its on though?

I shy away from complications. I'm just getting into electric Windows with the newer models. I hate turning on a key. I modified them to work anytime if I only open any door all around the car. Makes for easier cleaning of the window after a wash. It also stops my wife from nagging me about running the windows down a wee bit for the dogs after I shut the engine off or I have gotten out. She can do her on side!


I just learned from another recent post that the 1981's non turbo can have an electrical controlled IAC. It look factory or adapted from a later year car and engine.

Can you tell what idle system you car has?

The more you can tell, the more people on here will yell back!

Phil

Hi Charlie,

Thought I read something about an ensuing fire and getting some of the ammonium sulphate down plug holes as you extinguished it... TB reply about using a shop vac I'd not recommend. Personally I'd not worry about a bit of powder making it into the combustion chamber...

Anyhow, you want to check the plunger in your fuel distributor, especially if the k-jet hasn't been k-jetting recently. Make sure the airflow plate is not binding...

Sorry to hear.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

What's the fastest liquid on earth? Milk, because it's pasteurized before you see it.

Fuel pressure regulator? Pull the vacuum line off of it and if fuel drips out or you can smell fuel in the hose, bad diaphragm. If so, make sure you get one for turbo. If memory serves it should be a 3bar. 2.5bar for non turbos
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

a fuel relay that stays in the open position??