Just checked front seals and seal carrier. They were dry. Oil source is difficult to ascertain.

Now I'm thinking I should torque my oil pan bolts but I see many are blocked by the bellhousing bracket. Just wondering if I can remove that bracket without supporting the engine from above.

I did replace the oil separator box two years ago so I believe my pcv system is not the culprit. I have some at-205 on order just in case my leak is from the the rms.

Marty

While the oil pan bolts may be loose, over torquing the bolts can cause the pan to buckle and leak. I had my oil pan gasket replaced and a few months later it started leaking again. I found that the bolts had been over torqued.

I think it is helpful to use UV dye to locate oil leaks. There is some available from NAPA that may be added to engine oil.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7652661

Thanks Bad,

8 ft lbs. Messy affair down there as I don't have a carwash nearby to degunk it. For now I'm just going to snug the pan screws and give it a dose of that touted snake oil. I will report back in due time with any lessons learned.

Thanks for the tip on the UV dye. I hate oil leaks.

Marty

The lower cast aluminum brace can be safely removed temporarily without any ill effects. When re-installing I snug up the vertical bolts but really tighten the horizontal ones (brace to bell housing) first. I think that brace was added to the B18 in 1967 to reinforce the bellhousing. Before that the flywheel was simply covered by a tin plate. I have seen an early tin plate bellhousing split all the way around - but that instance may have been a case of loose trans to bellhousing bolts. -- Dave

That's reassuring, thanks Dave