I have a 1990 245 wagon that just clocked in at 340,000. I have owned and maintained the car since 2000 and have been using Mobil 10w-40 High Mileage (conventional oil). They are making it more and more difficult to find the stuff so I thought about switching over to Mobil1 10w-40 Fully Synthetic for High Mileage Vehicles. Right now the ONLY issue with the motor is the rear cam seal and valve cover gasket (they are original).

What suggestions do you have as far as:
1) Should I bother switching?
2) How to properly switch without causing leakage problems?
3) Does anyone have any experience with the rear cam seal?
(I have the Volvo seal AND valve cover gasket)
4) I just don't want to mess up my car! :-(

Thank you ALL in advance.

>Right now the ONLY issue with the motor is the rear cam seal and

I would guess you are referring to the metal disk that plugs the hole behind the cam. Those are prone to falling out at the least opportune time and spewing copious amounts of crankcase oil down the back of the engine.

Some people elect to fabricate a metal strip to act as a physical barrier to prevent it from falling out, others remove it and clean it up before using some type of adhesive to seal and secure it in place.

Randy

hi sages- since 65 ive used mostly 10/30 name brand conventional(usually quaker state) in various tanks and changed oil and filter at 4k. have heard more than a few advise against switching to synthetic in high mileage (100k+) due to leaking problems. seems synthetic is good and without risks in low mileage or new cars. also used 10/40 for a while with no apparent problems on a 73 Plymouth 318 v8. that went to 260k on the original engine and then another 100k on a reman engine. stopped using 10/40 and went back to 10/30 when many said 10/40 is ng for newer cars due to high amount of zddp a valve system lube, which raises hell with the catalytic converter. this can be a problem if youre in a state like nj which has mandatory emissions inspections. nj loved to fail tanks for this which then cost you $200-500 to get a passed sticker from a private garage.most of those garages were on shyster blvd right next to the cleaners in clip city. any of you been to that town? fla doesn't have this racket. let me know what you think of my oil analysis. thanks tons oldduke

S.C. used to require vehicle inspections every year. You were required to have your vehicle checked at an "authorized" inspection station. I knew of one place where you paid the $6 or so, the mechanic would fill out the check sheet, and then put a new sticker on your windshield. All the state wanted was that fee. The inspection station might have made a few dollars on the deal, but not enough to justify the time to check all the vehicle's systems. Gov. Beasley ended the inspection program. That must have been an election year.

Andrew

wow salt- sounds like one helluva racket which is what it was in nj. there they checked you for emissions- hc, nox and smoke. if your car was over 3 yrs old it automatically failed that test. they allowed you to go to a certified mechanic shop and allowed him to clip you for a maximum amount(think it was $500) fix it and then put a sticker ok on the window. just a moneymaker for chiseling mechanics. obviously more bargains in s.c. when I motor north on 95, s.c. has the cheapest gas between fla and ny. viva la beasely. thanks tons oldduke

I'd switch brands and keep it on dino oil. I've switched a number of higher mileage vehicles from dino to synth. All of them developed oil leaks within 5k-10k miles of the switch. The prevailing wisdom seems to be that the better detergent packages and extra 'slipperiness" of the synth cleans up sludge which as blocked tiny breakdowns in various gaskets and seals - and once the sludge is gone, it gets replaced with a drip.

Will it happen here? No way to predict. However, if you've gotten this far on conventional, why switch? I agree with the Rotella T recommendation. Easily available and good stuff.

I've experienced leaks when switching to synthetic oil on early 90s cars that had low mileage but certainly had the years. I'd stick with dino.

15w 40 shell rotella for diesel engines or the tractor supply equivalent

not to worry it is perfectly fine for gas engines as well

I agree with you, Ted. The Tractor Supply "Traveler" 15W-40 oil is made by Warren Distribution, Inc., who are one of the largest private label petroleum products manufacturers in the U.S. I have been using it for about 2 years now. I've not sent a sample of my oil to a lab to be analyzed, but it is recommended.

Andrew

switch to mobil 1 or napa synthetic,,Do you timing belt & water pump & all the front seals,,synthetic will get into all the tight little places that needs it,,if it leaks out replace it,,,,cheaper than rebuilding the engine