During hard wiring a tail light assembly I became aware the reverse lights are out.
I am in the process of isolating the failure, but am perplexed by the location of the reverse light switch.

I can just see the reverse light switch wires sticking out over the top of the manual transmission through the space between the transmission and hump in the floor.

Maybe because I was jammed under the car looking for it, but I doubt my hand will fit through the space. So somehow working a wrench is evading me.

All my searches are turning up auto transmission switch repairs.
I did read one post that mentioned dropping the transmission (!?). That seems extreme.

What is the recommended way to access the reverse light switch?
I suspect I am missing something basic and would appreciate someone clueing me in.
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

Check conclusion...

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1655741/220/240/260/280/fyi_replace_reverse_light_switch_cable_inside_cabin_manual_5speed_m47.html
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A closed mouth gathers no foot.

You can lower the gearbox on that side a bit. Complete removal is not necessary.

I'm going on memory here but I seem to recall using a 13/16" spark plug socket and short or medium extension.

If you are lucky it will just be a wiring problem. I have found that the new style switch for current models, which works in theory for the older models, doesn't extend into the case far enough to make contact unless I manually hold the shift lever all the way left. This was what I encounterd on my '89. I think if I removed the copper gasket and used some sealant that might be a cure. Or maybe find a thinner gasket or crush ring. Hopefully your switch will be okay or you can find an earlier style replacement.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

"You can lower the gearbox on that side a bit."

By gear box I assume you mean transmission (?).
In order to get anything up to the top of the transmission where the switch is the transmission would need to come down more than a bit. Maybe I am misjudging the distance due to my awkward position under the car.

Lowering the transmission in any form will be a new exercise for me.
All I know is to not drop it onto my chest.

So I put some type of jack under the transmission, remove the rear transmission support bracket
...
and the transmission will just lower without disconnecting the drive shaft?
...
and the engine just pivots as the rear end of the transmission comes down?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

Yes. By gearbox I mean the transmission.

For this particular endeavor the jack goes under the transmission support on the side where the bolts are removed, in this case the left side. It would be a good idea to put a jackstand or something sturdy on the other side as a safety measure.

If you really want to disconnect the driveshaft I won't talk you out of it. But I have done this many times without and to no ill effect. To me, it's just more stuff to get in the way while working under the car. The driveshaft will move forward imperceptibly but it is designed that way.

The transmission really doesn't have to come down that much. Let it down a little, check underneath, let it down a little more if need be.

If this sounds unsafe, well many procedures that we talk about here can be if done imprudently. Please be careful and if you don't feel confident, don't set about this task.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

Bulletproof,

Doing some crawling around under the car looking at the transmission mounting and drive train I am still surprised the transmission could drop enough to access the switch.

From the engine to the central drive support bearing is rigid.
- Some notes indicate taking the bands off the muffler so it lowers ... I would add to that disconnecting the header pipe a the bracket attached to the transmission.

The central drive support bearing has a vibration damper around it that would have to compress 4" ... which is thicker than the damper.

Will the drive train hinge (bend) at the central drive support bearing?

Thanks
tbb2
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

As the rear of the trans lowers the flex disc will...well, flex, like it's name implies. At the center support, the bearing carrier will also flex, not compress, and the driveshaft will move forward just a little. But it's splined so that's what it is supposed to do. We are talking millimmeters, here. The rear part of the front half of the drive shaft will move up a tiny bit but the u-joint will allow this.

I must repeat, the trans does not have to lower much. A couple of inches maybe. And you will not be able to see the switch. Maybe with a dental mirror but not directly.

BTW, the Volvo Green Book procedure does not call for lowering the transmission. According to it you work through the shifter opening and under the car. It also specified a 7/8" or 22 mm socket. I think I said 13/16" earlier. Probably you have seen this.

Bentley, on the other hand, recommends lowering a bit.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

bulletproof,

It is looking like I need to replace the reverse switch now.
Getting the wires replaced almost wasted me.
Are you able to send pics of the operation you mention from the GreenBook that goes thru the cabin floor?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

I am surprised you are asking me, no more help than I was two years ago.

I can provide you with a link where you can read the M45/M46 Greenbook but I am not sure you can download it. Maybe someone knows of another site where it can be accessed.

Or I can send you the pdf that I downloaded years ago in two parts. I don't think the site I got it from is still up.

I don't know that the pictures in the Greenbook will help that much but you might as well have a look.

There is a replacement switch that will not mate with the wiring to your current switch. You are expected to cut the existing two wires and splice the new wiring/connector. I am thinking you don't want to go through that again.

If your existing wiring is in good order and you only want to replace the switch, make sure you get part number 9442728. It is the OE replacement for our late 240s.


The original style switch




The newer style

bulletproof,

I contacted you back because you had done this and were the most informative.
It would be great if you could provide the PDF illustrations for what they may be worth.

I read back over the threads in this post and see you really were pushing, as I was, to understand why the space was so restricted.

Since the original threads bounced as I struggled let me start from where I think I left off.

The trans mount was down and the trans was as far down as it would go with the engine against the firewall.

You made a comment about moving the trans to the side, which sounds great, but how might that be managed? I do not have a rolling jack.

Could I be mistaken and it was the drive shaft the trans was hanging from and not the engine restriction at the firewall?

Thanks
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

Are you referring to my remark about lowering the trans a little bit on the left side? I can describe it but if the trans is, "as far down as it would go with the engine against the firewall," it is lower than what I was talking about.

But what I was talking about was loosening, just a little, the cross member screws on the right side and removing them completely on the left side while supporting the left side with a jack and then lowering the jack a bit to provide a little more clearance above the gearbox.

If the engine was against the firewall it is not going any further so the driveshaft was not the cause.

The Greenbook can be seen at

http://www.volvotips.com/service-manual/volvo-240/Volvo-240-260-manual-transmissions-M45-M46-part-1.html

and

http://www.volvotips.com/service-manual/volvo-240/Volvo-240-260-manual-transmissions-M45-M46-part-2.html

It does not cover the M47 but the differences are negligible.

Green books pdfs are here

https://ozvolvo.org/archive/

scroll down until you satrt seeing TP 30941 ---- dwnload both---the full and the suppliment

Thank you.

It must be me.
All instructions are to:
- lower the transmission
- replace switch

So it must me my x-large handsm, or my recall of efforts to lower and attach the new reverse switch harness are confused.

Looks like I will just need to retrace my steps to see if what I did had room for improvement.

Thanks all.
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

bulletproof,

It is looking like I need to replace the reverse switch now.
Getting the wires replaced almost wasted me.
Are you able to send pics of the operation you mention from the GreenBook that goes thru the cabin floor?

1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

bulletproof,

I raised the car, loosened the header pipe bracket bolts, removed the transmission brace bolts on one side, loosened the brace bolts on the other side, lowered the transmission and all I can think is you must have very very small hands.

I have dropped the transmission 3+ inches and more but it is hanging on something at that point and though the brace comes down the transmission does not lower further. I'm guessing the center bearing is what is holding the transmission up. But dropping that is nowhere in the how-tos.

I can not pinch a bullet connector between my fingers AND reach the prongs of the switch. My knuckles will not go through the gap. I can just touch both prongs with my finger tips and feel the base of the switch. I have tried to put wire clips on the prongs with leads so I can continuity test the switch, but it is impossible to squeeze and maneuver the clip onto a prong.

It looks like I would have to remove the air intake system and starter to reach the top of the transmission ... assuming my elbows could bend in the other direction to reach under the back of the engine bay.

I am stumped and open too more suggestions.
??!!!
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

First of all, don't go at it from the engine compartment.

Is the cylinder head against the firewall?

--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

I do not understand your inquiry about the cylinder head.

If you agree to not go through the engine compartment, how does the cylinder head come into play?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

I asked because I wanted to know if that is what is keeping the engine/trans from lowering any further.

--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

bulletproof,

Yes the engine is against the firewall.
... How do I move the firewall? ... Not really.
So how do I get more space?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

This is not going too well, is it?

Let's do this. Raise the trans back up. Fasten the cross brace on both sides. Just temporarily.

Disconnect the driveshaft from the trans. Your car should have a hard rubber flex coupler with 6 bolts. Take note of how the bolts are installed. The three that are connected to the drive shaft have the bolt heads to the rear and the other three have the bolt heads to the front. There is also an arrow on the coupler that should point forward when you reinstall it. Move the driveshaft out of the way.

Loosen but do not remove the nut that fastens the transmission mount to the cross brace. Support the trans with a floor jack. Remove the screws that fasten the cross brace to the car. Lower the trans. If for some reason the cross brace is in the way you can remove it. I can't remember if this will be the case.

I think when I had you leave the cross brace screws in on the one side it was causing the trans to lean toward the other side. Now, hopefully, you can lower it and have enough clearance to reach the reverse light switch. Pull the wire connectors. Use a deep socket to remove the switch. I think I mentioned size earlier. You'll probably have to put the socket on and then a short extension if there's room or maybe a universal joint is better. You'll have to make that determination when you get there. It's been a while since I've done this, if you hadn't already guessed.

If all goes well, when you are putting things back the way they were install the screws for the cross brace and then tighten the nut on the transmission mount.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

Bad reverse switch or not the wires going to it look like shredded wheat. Big time corrosion.

So I will still need to access the reverse lights switch to check continuity, make new connections and rebuild the wires to inside the cabin.

I just finished hard wiring one of the rear light assemblies but that has been the extent of my wiring repairs. The rear tail light assemblies look to use 18 gauge stranded wire.

Looking around a couple of forums I am not seeing specifications for wiring and connectors ... for any of the wiring harness.

I took the reverse light connector apart in the cabin and the wire appears to be 18 gauge.
Can someone confirm wiring spec?
Can someone tell me how the reverse light switch is connected to the wire?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

Go on the davebarton.com web site and you can find the wire connector and wire set of a certain length. Thats the easiest way and all you have to do is splice 2 wires at the shifter hole in the floor.