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Hi All,
I finally swapped a Steering box from a 74 wagon into my 71 142E. Fortunately this box was a lot better than my original steering box. It felt almost new, I now have super sensitive steering (relative to the slop I had before).
I noticed a new slight pull to the left. Also above 30 MPH I started to hear what sounded like wind whistling from the front. The sound was independent of rpms, or drive train engagement, The noise started at 30 mph and did not stop until the car slowed to 5 mph.
My carrier bearing was not hot. The front spindle grease caps were not hot. But I did not drive very far. Maybe I did not damage the spindle.
I was thinking that the new steering box changed the alignment enough so that under increased stress, a set of loose bearings started to chatter. Perhaps the non Volvo mechanic did not seat the bearings with the castle nut torqued to 50 ft/lbs before backing off, I had a brake jobs done 4.000 miles prior with new bearings installed then. I have a new set of bearings and seal ordered. Am I on the right track ? Thanks for any input or discussion.
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102
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Today I rented a Pittman Arm puller from AutoZone I also bought a 1 5/16" socket 3/4 inch drive with a 3/4 to 1/2 converter for the large nut holding on the arm. I had to use a four foot pipe as a lever for the Pittman Arm puller.
I had to pull the 74 box back out to swap the Pittman arms. Everything came apart and went back together just peachy. I checked the Castle Nut tension on my bearings without adjusting.
The test drive was fantastic. With the new poly bushings on the steering column link, I have steering that is very responsive without that squishy feel.
All help and teaching appreciated.
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102
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Just a comment. The Pitman arm and the steering box shaft have stamped marks which must be aligned. This ensures that the box is centralised when the steering is in the straight ahead position. Just one spline out can compromise the steering feel. Sounds like you have it right but when doing, say, a steering box lower seal change, and things could be a bit cleaner under there, the marks can be hard to see. Renewing that seal always a good idea when you have a box on the bench.
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That process of spline alignment caused the most consternation for me during this exchange. In the process of marking them myself, I noted the
marks. I did not take the time to figure them out.
The new box leaks oil. I packed it with grease instead. I thought I would do an autopsy on an old box to explore seal replacement and possible rebuild. I am not sure that there are many options to rebuild function without a new set of worm gears. I have a couple of seals to put in my good box if the process seems simple.
Most boxes I have tried leaked oil AND were very loose and non responsive with minor turns. They seem to be worn out at the center point.
What do ya'll think about moving the Pittman arm one or two notches over on the splines to create a more responsive center point of the steering.
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102
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Lining up the marks is essential. Adjustment is made when the wheels are exactly in the straight ahead position. On an unworn box there will always be a bit of play at the steering wheel. 1" to 1 1/2" either side of centre is good but although the manual shows adjusting on the bench with a spring weight gauge doing it by feel is fine. It mustn't be adjusted too tight. With the front wheels off the ground, jack stands under the lower A arms there should be no tight spot when you move the steering wheel across the centre position.
New steering worms aren't available, they are part of the steering shaft. Box can be rebushed and reshimmed. This will not revive a box with a worn worm. If the lower bush is worn it will allow the shaft to move and that will quickly wear a new seal and it will start to leak again but just a new seal may cure the leak for many more miles. Easy to fit with the Pitman arm off.
A basic idea as to how much wear the worm has is by looking at the number of threads showing above the adjuster lock nut. 2 is good, 1 is pretty worn and less, very worn. Adjustment is still possible at the expense of more free play in the steering but with this design of box this play is always there to some degree and you get used to it. If you move the arm on the spline you will get a tight spot when you're driving and when cornering it will feel pretty nasty when a bend matches this spot.
Grease is not advised as it just clumps and dries out. If going with that idea there are some liquid steering box greases which do flow and are about 160 weight. Getting out the grease you have put in will be a problem.
What to do? Check the old box for worm wear by adjusting on the bench and reviewing the number of threads on the adjuster. Check for movement on the lower bush, If OK replace lower seal. If you're up to it dismantle the whole box. Wash and inspect everything, Check worm for wear marks and galling. Rebuild if OK. Consider rebuilding with new bushes. They need to be reamed to fit the shaft. A kit is available. Eric may comment on this and maybe able to offer that procedure.
Good luck.
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I can't guarantee this is your problem, but the 1973-1974 140's used a different idler arm and you might have to use the later idler to match the later steering box and pitman arm.
I do know that the pitman arm on the 1973-1974 steering box is different and is not interchangeable to an earlier 140 steering box as the pitman shafts are different sizes, but the angles maybe different too.
I can tell you that whenever we update an early 122/1800 idler arm with all metal bushings to the later style idler arm with a metal cased rubber bushing, we have to change the pitman arm on the steering box to match the later idler arm which has a different angle. Fortunately, the pitman shafts are the same size, so they are interchangeable.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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Eric,
Good Grief! After reading your reply and as its significance sank in, I could never have slept without going outside in the dark to hold up my old box to the one mounted on my car. You have completely nailed it!
I would have never noticed the differences between the pittman arms of the 71-72 140 and a 74. My 74 box does have a different pittman arm from the 71-72 boxes I have had mounted. What a learning moment for many of us with aging 140's.
The diameter and thread of the Pittman arm shaft are the same. It appears if I can get the Pittman arms off, that switching the two arms will make my world start spinning again.
Do you have a favored technique for removing the Pittman arm from its shaft?
Again, I am grateful, humbled, and amazed by the knowledge shared by those on this forum.
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102
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Even though the Pitman shaft nuts are the same, the diameter of the Pitman shafts are different, hence the Pitman arms are different too. So the easier fix is to install the later idler arm.
If you do want to check the Pitman shaft diameter, you can get a Pitman arm puller from most auto parts stores and some stores like Autozone will rent 1 to you. You have to buy the tool, but you can return it for a full refund if you don't damage the tool.
If you have a choice of size, try a smaller Pitman arm puller 1st. IIRC, you might have to loosen and/or remove some of the steering box bolts to use even the smaller Pitman arm pullers as the frame is really close to the steering box.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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Hi Eric,
I do not have precision measuring tool, but I took my adjustable wrench and compared the Pittman shaft diameter at the thread, and at the spline portion on each shaft. In my case the diameters at both points between the 72 box and the 74 box are the same. The angle of the Pittman shaft relative to frame is the same for both boxes as well. I hope this proves to be true when I exchange the arms because I did not take the 74 idler arm when I removed the 74 box.
I am a fan of AutoZone tools borrow policy. I did wonder if they had a Pittman puller. I am off to AutoZone after submitting this message.
I already have the box's mounting bolts loosened up so if I have to pull out the 74 box to remove the Pittman arm, then NBD.
Do you think I should just go with checking the spindle's castle nut tightness or go ahead and replace the bearings.
Eric, I would have struggled for days before I could figure out my error. You took away a bit of anguish associated my not knowing WTF, I remain your loyal customer and refer others to your company often.
Joel G
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102
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Despite not feeling hot, what you describe sounds like a carrier bearing.--Dave
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