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Cold Temp Whistle from '91 240 Sedan 200 1991

Friends at the Brickboard:

I have a '91 240 Sedan with 170,000 miles on it. It's running just fine, but in cold weather it will frequently whistle when I'm accelerating. I've thought it's likely a vacuum leak, but there's no obvious source. It doesn't happen all that often, and I'm used to it, but I'm motivated to write the BB because the condition has recently changed. It's still chilly here in Kansas City (in the 40's) but it used to only whistle at considerably colder temps. And it's also become more of a chord of tones rather than a single tone whistle. I'll welcome any feedback on what might be making the noise and whether or not it's important that I get it fixed or just live with the quirky sound.

Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise.








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Cold Temp Whistle from '91 240 Sedan 200 1991

Hi,

A cold whistle under acceleration is something small or lightweight vibrating a lot!
In all likelihood it will be a driveline center support bearing going dry.

It should spin freely but you have to drop the shaft to test that and see what diameter it is. Most are the larger size anymore of later years.
Some people get away with squirting thin oil in the seams of the outer seals for a short term confirmation that it is that bearing. They end up soaking the rubber and sometimes it’s not tolerated well by the rubber.

This sound will come a go when a rolling member doesn’t roll but slides.
It is of high pitch or almost a screeching to singing sound.
It will sound like it’s coming from everywhere. But it’s under the car.

BEST heard driving in a tunnel or over a bridge with side bolsters. Have One window down on each Opposite corner of the cabin. Echo time will delay the sound front to back off the bolsters spacing or the walls distance. Separates the front wheel bearings from underside rear bearings for me.

When it get more towards the silent side and you forget about it, it is the time to worry more.
If it gets dry enough to totally lock up the bearing it will rip the rubber mounting ring and the supporting metal spring out and the driveshafts shifts in the middle.
When this happens, no matter the speed, there will be a spinning knock and a beating sound you will never forget!

The bearing and rubber mount will cost between $20 to $50 if both are needed but a tow bill is the bigger ouch!

It is best to drop the drive line and replace the all bearings beforehand.
Check the universal cross joints for any excessive tightness or crunch in all directions of the swivel.
If a lubricant cannot be pushed in, replace them or If they show a rust dust stain outside the needle caps, those rollers inside are done!

U-Joints run $ 7 -$15 ea. This depending on those chain stores with that “Macy’s look of a fine goods department store display” or supposedly a superb quality lifetime story line.
Most joints have grease “zerks” or holes. While others, on-line, may provide only a “jerk” that puts the wrong parts in a bin.

Cross joints are pretty much a “set standard” for quality anymore. That is if you stay in the realm reputable countries, that supply the popular box packaging companies.

This is a one time repair for another 150,000 miles or more depending on road debris and wetness.

It’s a job you can do laying down or sitting in a chair, reading a magazine, if you are so inclined or not to be? (:-)...*/.*/

Phil








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Cold Temp Whistle from '91 240 Sedan 200 1991

Thanks for the feedback, Phil. I noticed driving into work this morning that I actually stated things poorly. The whistle appears to be most pronounced when decelerating. And it now definitely has several tones together.
I appreciate you thinking this through with me.







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