Hey! I’m very frustrated now.. I just brought a very nice Volvo 245 b230f from 1992. The car starting stalling when I came to signal light.. it’s feels like it’s having a hard time getting done to idle.. it’s not every time, sometimes it’s not and other times it’s happens 5 times on the way to work.. (20km) it’s drives very well when I don’t need to brake down to idle. I got the code 1-2-1 and 3-2-2.. and still got it after replacing and trying these things:

- Replacing AMM, tried with three different
- Replacing idle control valve
- Replacing the Intake manifold gasket
- Replaced some bad vacuum hoses
- Tried to find more vacuum leaks with diesel start spray (can’t find any more)
- Removed the preheater mechanisms that almost every time is not working
- Found a bad ground cable, and replaced that one (the one from the firewall to valve cover

What can i do?......

Did you ever figure out the cause of your problem? I have the same issue going on now. Thx! Rob

Belay my last. I think I just fixed it! I removed the connector on the AMM and sprayed both the AMM and the harness with electronic cleaner. I am beyond stunned. It doesn't take much dirt or grime on those wires to gum up the works and throw a code. I had both 121 and 322. The true test will be tomorrow when she is cold. I will let you know.

So whare'e apandersphilip?

Some of what you believe may be grime is perhaps some grease to prevent corrosion formation at the AMM / MAF connector spades and the terminals at the AMM / MAF wire harness connector. The wire harness side of the AMM / MAF connector is a recessed silicon (?) or other o-ring. If you look in the connector, and do not see an opaque connector, you may want to treat the issue to prevent under-hood conditions from intruding into the connector area.

The connector both sides are solder tinned copper alloy blades on the AMM side and the clips on the wire harness connector side. If these metal bits encounter moisture, the tin lead solder coat can lose seal, the copper can corrode, forming what look like verdigris. The corrosion can also travel up the wire.

Sometimes an aged boot at the connector on the wire harness can allow under-hood conditions to intrude. The 1992+ wire harness seems more durable and remains supple longer than prior years. Garage parking, few oil leaks, the installed belly pan, low miles halps.

DeoxIT-D brand has a spray and a grease for this. Though the action of connector disconnect / reconnect can make a new bonded metal on metal connection. The grease on the connector contacts from the factory and maybe more recently can also collect under-hood grime

Though should you read you wire harness, the issue could be faulty AMM / MAF ground connection. Those hex bolt heads that secure the fuel rail to the top side of the air intake port (manifold). I forget which of the two bolts the AMM / MAF grounds though. Also, a Volvo TSB indicates running solder into the ground connection ring term barrel crimp, each secured under both the hex bolt. Some may cut off the old crimp and use a new durable quality ring term, yet run solder into the barrel crimp seam. Maybe seal it?

http://volvowiringdiagrams.com/
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Hi,

I was just going to say look for holes in the accordion hose. This allows air in that can be beyond allowable limits of the idle air control valve. This disrupts the metering that was done ahead of the air stream. Produces a hunting situation for everything.

Good luck in the morning. A1992 was also another good year to maintain rather easily. IMHO

Don't know if the Original Poster fixed the problem.
It happens that way, sadly.
I gave him the same advice and he went on down the road.
Hopefully, with a fuzzy tiger in his tank!
Like EXXON use to advertise, by saying, "Happy Motoring."

Phil

Two rather specific fault codes when the ECU encounters conduction issues between the LH-Jetronic ECU and the AMM / MAF.

Not a general or blanket fault notion, yet very specific.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

Table 1: Bosch LH2.4 ... Fuel Injection Fault Codes


1-2-1*
- Faulty signal to/from Air Mass Meter
- Wiring fault to or in AMM
- Various driving problems; fuel consumption

3-2-2
- Air Mass Meter wire burn-off signal absent or faulty
- Wiring break between FI terminal 8 and AMM #4
- Various driving problems due to dirty AMM wire

Try again?
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.

double check condition of distributor cap and rotor
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'91 244 205k auto

Try cleaning and adjusting the throttle body assembly plate tightly in the bore.
Between the plate and the idle switch things might not be working repetitively.

Take the accordion hose behind the AMM and inspect for splits or wear holes. Make sure the ends are sealing under the end clamps.

The codes are blanket references of possibilities to cause a condition. They are not necessarily explicit to a component failure.
As you know a vacuum leak can be anywhere and can cause a rich/ lean condition code.

Phil