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My car just died while traveling about 50 mph
I checked the plugs and they are wet. The car tries to start but then the plugs foul. I replaced the 016 AMM, the CPS, the fuel pressure regulator, ignition control module . I also disconnected the cold start valve.
I tried to shut off the fuel supply by pulling #6 fuse (fuel pump) to shut off the fuel flow. It runs for a little while.....
Would the oxygen sensor cause the plugs to foul ?
I'm up for any advice.
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Just a few comments, not necessarily advice:
"I checked the plugs and they are wet. The car tries to start but then the plugs foul. I replaced the 016 AMM, the CPS, the fuel pressure regulator, ignition control module . I also disconnected the cold start valve."
Used working regulators have been hard to find. Ignition control module or ignition amplifier? (in front of the battery) ICM (ICU) is about as reliable as parts get, but that amplifier is in a bad spot for battery acid atmosphere along with the coil and its wiring. High resistance connections. Disconnected what on the CSV?
"I tried to shut off the fuel supply by pulling #6 fuse (fuel pump) to shut off the fuel flow. It runs for a little while....."
Fuse six in an 89 US market 240 is nothing but a spare fuse. Your '93 was different.
"Would the oxygen sensor cause the plugs to foul ?"
Only after some warm-up and drive time. Easily ruled out by taking a voltage reading.
And from one of your responses, your car, again if US market, does use the check engine light, and if you don't find it, that could be a clue. Both ECU and ICU activate it in lamp test mode (key on engine stalled).
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
“Never underestimate the difficulty of changing false beliefs by facts.” --- Henry Rosovsky
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Art B.,
I disconnected the electrical plug to the cold start valve to hopefully shut off the fuel to stop the plugs being fouled.
The fuel pressure regulators were from previous running 240 cars.
If #6 fuse is not for the main fuel pump ....which fuse does run the pump on a 1989 Volvo 245 ?
So.....are you suggesting to replace the main computer ? I do have a couple on the shelf from various year 240 cars. One is a 1992 and can't recall the other year at this moment...
Again, I'm running 1-1-1 on both #2 and #6 on on-board diags. and there is no check engine light on ever for the 2 years I have owned this 245.
Thanks, Duck
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Hi Duck,
"If #6 fuse is not for the main fuel pump ....which fuse does run the pump on a 1989 Volvo 245 ?"
Fuse #6 does nothing. There is no fuse to "run the pump" in your 1989 Volvo 245. There is a fuse to protect the wiring to the pump and all the rest of the FI system, located on the left inside fender, but pulling that won't do what you think you want to do, shut off just the fuel pump; doing so shuts everything off: fuel injectors, fuel control unit, both pumps, idle valve, AMM, oxygen sensor heater. The only way to shut off just the main pump is to disconnect it, easily done on your 245 under the rear seat.
You did not answer my question about the "ignition control module" so I'll remain in the dark about whether you're really certain spark is not an issue.
If you've never seen your CEL on, maybe you should check that out. It should come on when you turn the key on before you crank. Two years is not enough time to become familiar with a Volvo and all the things previous owners may have done to it over its first 27 years, but it sounds as if you've collected a few parts you can swap for guessing/troubleshooting. Try swapping in those parts to test them in advance once you've returned this one to running. If you're limited to part swapping, it is the only advice I can offer. Identify your computers by the last three digits of the Bosch part number.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Except the profanity. You don't take that back; you just keep adding to it.
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Art B.,
Sorry I didn't answer about the ignition control module. Yes, I cleaned the area on the fender well(which wasn't too bad) and cleaned my replacement ignition control module with electronic cleaner before installing.
I tested for spark last night with a lead wire from #4 ignition wire and it jumped vigorously to ground out to the hood arm and I felt it jump right thru my leather glove. Oh...yeah....there's spark there Daddy.
Yes, when I bought this $1000 wonder 2 years ago...the previous owner had work done at corner garages and it took 2 weeks to straighten things out from their "rigging". After 42 years straight of driving Volvo you learn a few things and know what's right and what's wrong with mechanical matters.
I will look later on today at those Bosch computers to see if I have the correct model number and exchange if viable.
Art, thanks for all your expert help. Duck
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Well, that clears up the ignition mystery. The ignition control module is actually located behind your glove box. It is thought to be one of the most reliable parts in the car. The thingy out in front of the battery is a bit more troublesome, especially the contacts in its connector.
The ICM or ICU (the circuit board in the picture above) is just in front of your fuel relay, and the fuel computer is on the inner fender in front of the passenger's door, just visible in this picture.
I did have one fuel computer which turned on all the injectors. I think this happened around 2001; it seems rare in the archives. Pretty much any non-turbo LH2.4 computer will work to substitute for swap-testing which means anything you've pulled from an 89-93 240.
FPRs go south on the shelf from rot, so just because the car was running when you pulled it, well, some ebay sellers know this isn't any guarantee. Assuming you have no gauges, you can get a fairly good read on your FPR by checking (engine off) for fuel in the vacuum line, and by giving the return line a quick squeeze (with the pumps running using a jumper fuse 4 to 6 engine off) to see there is return flow.
Forgo the paper clip and use a jumper wire.
A shorted coolant temperature sensor could be causing you to dump fuel, but that's so much easier to check at the fuel computer pin if you follow the guide in the 7/9 FAQ (same circuit) than to pull the part and play under the hood.
Take the easy route and swap in another ECU first, if you don't have any reason to suspect your wire harness. You probably have a pink-label -561 unless it has been replaced with a white-label -561 or -951. The -951 does the same as your disconnect of the CSV, as it doesn't support one.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Eat, drink, and be thoughtful.
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No check engine light.it has Bosch f.i. system. 240's didn't come with Rex-Regina
code 1-1-1 on #2 hole
code 1-1-1 on #6 hole
This if I try it...... will be my third used fuel pressure regulator
cleaned some of the ground straps
spark seemed strong through #1 wire
thanks for the info, Duck
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Hi,
Any chance someone accidentally fueled it with diesel?
Peter
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Not a chance with the diesel fill up.
I have been thinking it might be bad fuel or someone dumped something in the tank but then again that's pretty far fetched.
My next step after our BLIZZARD here is to swap out the big computer.
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Don't want to see you throw parts at it.
Bad ECT or wiring comes to mind.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm#DiagnosingECTFailures
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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Walt,
Since higher engine temp decreases sensor resistance, do you think it’s safe to jump the wire to ground to simulate a max lean command just as a test to see if it leans it out?
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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One more thing to add....I replaced the coolant sensor below #3 on the intake side. What a fun job !
Could the cold start valve be jammed open especially when it 23 F. like today ?
I disconnected the wiring to cold start valve....don't know if this was good thing or bad !
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Disconnecting the plug shouldn’t hurt anything. But if the fuel line is still connected it could be allowing fuel to pass into the intake. You could pull the valve out of the intake and, with the fuel line connected, turn the ignition on to run the pumps, and see if the valve is leaking.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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I didn't spend a dime on parts. These are all used parts from cars I chopped up years ago. I've been driving Volvo for over 42 years and accumulated just a few.
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Have you verified spark at the spark plugs?
Is the cam turning?
How do the rotor and cap look?
Bad coil? (Try substitute)
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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Chris,
The camshaft is turning and I'm getting plenty of spark to #1 .
The Bosch cap and rotor are not that old.
cleaned terminals to coil but really wern't too bad. Now I tried disconnecting the Oxygen sensor and the cold start valve since the plugs keep getting wet.
Yeah, it's a head scratch-er...the engine ran a little the other day for bit though.
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