I’m new to the forum. I have a 93 Classic Wagon. Currently struts and control arms are off car as I am replacing bushings, springs, ball joints, tie rod ends, and strut inserts. Noticed a pretty bad leak on my passenger side steering rack. Going to have it rebuilt. But I have tried everything to get the steering u-joint loose. Tried the lower side (rack side) and the upper side. I can’t get it to budge. The joint is good and want to be able to reuse it.

Been trying to get the u-joint loose for 2 days now.

I have also searched the forums deeply. “Basically bang on it until it comes off”. I’ve been doing that for two days and it is not working

Any help would be greatly appreciated

-Joe

You should consider reading the 700/900 FAQ before any project - many items are the same as your car.

See my note about removing the u-joint bolt all the way as it fits into a groove on the shaft - don't forget about the groove when you put it back together.

Sign me so proud to be in the FAQ!

I have a picture that shows the use of a standard exhaust U clamp and a small socket to force the clamp apart a bit by pressing on the split boss where the bolt goes. Not easy to describe but I think that should give you some idea how it works.

https://imgur.com/a/tHWjN

They are all correct. Take bolt or bolts out completely, small wedge placed in the split in the u-joint to separate and a little force to move the joint away from the rack. Just a little side note, if you use the original washers then a little time on some very fine sandpaper will help when you seal the lines back up. Make sure you bleed the lines after you install the rebuilt unit.

All I can say is: don't get too enthusiastic when banging on the joint to break it loose - you can damage your airbag clockspring. I posted on this phenomenon a month or two ago.

I had to significantly modify my steering linkage to install a V8 engine in mine. I took the time with a small file to clean up all the splines. That and a bit of Never Seize and they go together and come apart with virtually no force at all.

1. lift car on jackstands
2. remove splash pan
3. unbolt rack from crossmember so only thing hold it in is u joint as well as steering outter tie rod ends
4. remove power steering lines from rack end and save banjo bolts and 4 copper washers
5. now with lines disconnected you have very good access by lying on your back looking up into the bottom of the u joint
6 find a really long handle flat blade screwdriver robust in design ... place it into the lower split and hammer upwards... the rack will comes loose and drop down



if you have a compressor and air chisel with flat blade step 6 is effortless

Some of the shafts have detents in them - so in addition to loosening the nut/bolt, you also have to remove the bolt. On the newer models like yours the joints are usually aluminum - hit it with some heat a few times. I have had luck hitting down on the lower joint from above with long screw driver and a 3 lb sledge. This of course after penetrating oil and spreading the joint. On mine, if you don't remove the bolt -- the joint will NOT come off the rack.
--
82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek

After removing the lock bolts from both ends of the lower joint find a suitable "wedge" (chisel, screwdriver, etc.) to spread the splits -- then apply whatever force (and penetrating oil) you are using to move the joint up and away from the rack shaft.- Dave