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If not already, please read the FAQ entry here:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/BodyGlass.htm
Like the OEM Volvo factory strut mount for Volvo 240 (Volvo PN 1272455), replacement windshield glass for our RWD Volvos is, well, hmmmm....
If the glass is original or a none too recent windscreen replacement, consider the gasket material.
Originally the windscreen gasket was butyl rubber tape. The onsite windshield replacement technician should be able to deal with it in that they remove the butyl tape and residue without damaging the finish.
The windshield technician should be able to release the old windshield without causing any damage or abrasion to the metal frame paint finish. I've found this not to be the case if the windshield technician has not been trained or does not know how to work with the butyl rubber gasket material originally used at the factory.
The windshield industry adhesive gasket material used now is urethane. The urethane must contact a residue free surface at the windshield pan pinch weld and the glass.
One a urethane gasket is applied as part of replacement windshield install, access to the paint finish under it is next to impossible. The solvent need to do so will damage the original enamel paint. Sometimes a heat gun may be used to release the urethane. Two replace a windshield secured using a proper urethane gasket, most windshield replacement technicians will use a hot knife fixture that secures to the windshield interior. The hot knife cuts through the urethane. Wedges or levers are put into the gap to prevent re-adhesion of the heated urethane. A hot knife cannot be used to cut through a butyl rubber gasket.
After windshield removal, butyl tape removal is time consuming. I hope the technician and service can deal with it. I've seen more often than not impatient effort resulting in a urethane gasket applied over what remains of the butyl rubber gasket and the windshield installed over it. They will usually not place, if the technician has these, the hard plastic stop to prevent the windshield sliding downward. Also, such a mix of gasket material is a chance or gasket failure and leak.
Lastly, if you suspect damage to the finish at the windshield pan pinch-weld, or rust underneath, you would do well to inspect and apply a durable finish to ensure a sealed surface after removing any rust that is there now or may form in the future due to damaged finish. Though the 700 and newer series is a more modern form of a windshield pan and pinch-weld over, say, 200 series, the same concerns persist.
Also, consider windshield quality. The chinesium glass for out of production cars is thin, cheap, sort of soft, and not as good optically as that new SEKURIT Saint-Gobain I'll guess you have as glass on your 1992 700 series. The US windshield replacement industry is replete with cheap chinesium glass. You may want to see what purchase options you have.
Safelite and Autolight use the same cheap glass.
On occasion, the chinese windshield glass kits come with a plastic border with a pip-in trim as a reveal to cover the pan gap. These are awful, unless it is not. Better to reuse the trim pieces. Salvage yard extra trim pieces can insure the old trim pieces that break are replaced.
Also, as John Sergeant indicates, it helps to have new secured to the windshield trim clips. I'm unsure, yet there may be clips that act as 'receivers' to the windshield clips that secure to the windshield. These 'receivers' snap into the a channel on the factory windshield trim and can slide in the channel to align to the clip secure to the windshield edge. These can only be used on windshield replacement without some metal reinforced plastic border the chinesium windshield glass all seem to include.
I guess that's it. The US after-market windshield replacement service and products are disappointing.
I hope your experience is better.
Hope that helps.
MacDuffy's Mundae Mundane.
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