Hi there,

I'm not much of a 700 guy, but I took a look at the '87 wiring diagram posted on volvowiringdiagrams.com and it shows the same circuitry used in the 240.

The significant property of this design is the switches have to make contact even in the inoperated position. This means the passenger side switch that appears to be functional is most suspect. Actually, there's no other possibility I can think of. Well, it obviously could be the switch in the master panel.

Post back, we'd love to hear your solution.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

It appears autocorrect has become my worst enema.

hi al kat- did follow advice here. replaced switch with a uro from autozone. drivers power window works now. may have to chase down wires for breakage corrosion or lose connection. just be sure the switch itself is ok. regards oldduke

A conundrum.

Body Glass, Mirrors, Moldings, Water Leaks, Etc. Power Windows:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/BodyGlass.htm

Power Window Switches
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#Power_Window_Switches

Maybe we can stare at the two pages in the that green manual 700 electrical system PDF file and come up with an answer?

Both switches are connected at the same point on the fuse panel / relay tray thing for power. And your other three driver front door power window switch cluster works.

Yet in your year 740, the middle kill switch effect only the rear doors. That's wot crusty memories portend and the wiring diagram on PDF page 118.

The it is hard to believe that both the up and down wires from the driver door switch for the front right window are both wonky, corroded, or somehow failed otherwise through what is labeled connector A and connector B.

I'll take a look, though you may have your multimeter at the ready to test, well, something, with the power window switches off and such for the FR (why not write it as front-right?) door.

Check for 12 VDC at the FR switch input on the cluster and that is passes through the switch when pressing forward for down and toggle back The wires GR-R (=green-red stripe) and BL (I guess blue) at the switch output are depowered / off. When pressing the toggle button forward (for down) and back (for up), the DC volts polarity is one way through the the two wires to power the motor and the window goes down. Opposite so the window goes up.

Mind you, when all power window action on my 1990 240 DL wagon (M47, dents, rust, prior owner abuse) fully halted, the last item I checked was the back side of the fuse panel as load side wire harness spade term lug was connected to the spade term on the fuse panel, yet it was corroded. A wiggle cured it. Though you have the ATC fuses in 700 series, and the fuse box is not your problem in this instance. Merely an anecdote. Er, uh, antidote. Ha-ha.

So, time to check for depowered continuity or with some prep power DC volt test to see if the driver door switch has power and ground. You can check the switch pins for continuity through it when pressing the toggle either way.

Could it be the switches you have used are wonky? Sort of doubt it yet check this current post Art Benstein put up for Uncle Old Duke and his power window issue as the switch was das kaputt:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1654129/220/240/260/280/92_245_driver_power_window_switch.html

Give it a whirl with your multimeter and and see hhhhwut shows up with the switches out. Verify the driver door switch is golden. If not volts or continuity at the wire color input at the passenger front door switch, maybe unearth one or the other connector.

Have you tried the swap in switches on the front passenger door? They work there?

Questions?

Hope that halpz yoo.

Sleepy MacDuffy's Tavern
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