Just curious, are you using a torque wrench when putting the tires on? It's actually less force than one might think.

I've never had any issues and I am outside of Chicago.

I do keep a telescoping wrench if needed.
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Paul NW Indiana '90 745 turbo 145 K

Hi Bonzo,

Also helps to use a stiff steel wire brush, or some other mechanical debriding method, to remove the corrosion from the mating surfaces between the hub side (rotor hat and lug stud shoulders) and the wheels.

Do you merely swap tires on the same wheel, or have a dedicated wheel/tire set; one for summer and one for winter?

If you use alloy wheels, Volvo brand or otherwise, the less noble alloy is the alloy wheel, and by now, unless refinished, the alloy wheel metal makes contact with the ferrous alloys compromising the hub works, primarily the brake disc rotor and lug hardware.

If you have some sort of conical wire wheel tool, you can remove corrosion on the wheel side at the conical side of the lug holes.

Take care slathering grease or anti seize around that wheel to hub mating interface so it does not sling on to the braking surfaces. Unlikely sort of.

WHen was the last time you replaced the brake rotors (and pads)? You may find these are seized to the hub, also. Once corrosion starts around the hub works, rather hard to halt. Of concern a bit is the rear parking brake hub assembly.

I may use some anti-seize on the lug hard thread. I also remove and install wheel to the hub myself and apply proper torque

I had this problem on my 1992 240 GL. The Corona wheels would not release lest some application of force. The rear brake rotors with rear calipers removed were also well secured to the hub, requiring a 3-lb hammer and wood section to free them. The 1992 240 GL spent most life in magnesium chloride ice melt CO-state (as bad as regular Ohio or Missouri road salt). Other western states use calcium chloride which works well and does not corrode cars or deteriorate road surfaces as badly.

Hope that halps.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.

I have used this trick multiple times to get off a rust stuck wheel... Maybe not the safest but it works.

Loosen the lugs nuts (not too far) and drive the car back and forth about 10 feet while turning the steering wheel back and forth just a bit. You'll hear the wheel pop off the hub.

Park, chock, jack and remove.

Good luck.

Petroleum jelly will heat up and dissipate eventually. I smear a thin coat of synthetic brake grease on the hub.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

I use a technique for loosening stuck on wheels my dad taught me. Remove all but one lug nut. Leave that one unscrewed 1/2 the length of the stud. Stand with your back to the wheel and kick back against the tire sidewall with the bottom of the foot of your strongest leg. A few good kicks is usually all it takes. The one lug nut will prevent the wheel from falling against your leg.
I use an ant-seize paste between the wheel and the rotor. -- Dave

I use anti-seize.