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I have a bad gasket on the #1 cylinder exhaust manifold. Leaking. Need to replace it.
When I unbolt the manifold at #1 cylinder am I going to be able to pry it open just enough to slip a new gasket in? Or am I looking at having to remove the entire exhaust manifold?
Thanks for any info.
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Job's done.
PB Blaster. Propane heat with beeswax. 6-point 3/8" socket with 4' cheater bar.
New Volvo OEM gaskets and copper nuts torqued to spec.
Thanks for all the advice.
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4 foot cheater? You weren't foolin' around. Did you try a shorter one prior to that?
--
Paul NW Indiana '90 745 turbo 145 K
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I keep the 4 footer around for tough jobs. With the longer moment arm I can get nice slow torque pressure. Very useful tool.
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Yes, the breaker bar was used to remove two tough exhaust to head manifold nuts. Smooth even slow pull. A risk of snapping a stud, I know... But it worked.
Now to pass inspection.
Happy Friday back at ya.
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Hi Mr Nabisco,
If one gasket is leaking the others could be on their way out too. Get replacement studs and nuts. Those on eBay have some exotic nuts such as copper/nickel plated which is way better then OE. The nut's thread is M8 with 1.25 pitch (and so is the stud). Undo all nuts for the job. If any sticks to the stud then remove it together as one unit (but do it slowly to preserve the thread inside the aluminium head). Do this on cold engine.
Replacement gaskets from Bosal/Starla/Walker are okay as yours is not a turbo. I don't think you could slip a gasket in just by undoing 2 exhaust fasteners.
Regards,
Amarin.
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Hi MrNabisco!
Hope all's aces and eights!
Well, not Turbo or Turbo? Oh, Turbo. As in 1994 Turbo 940 you have?
Either way, if the #1 exhaust port-manifold gasket has relieved itself, to relieve exhaust through the union, I'll bet the other three gasket are probably rather crumbly around the edge and may let go eventually.
It would be best to replace all four gasket. Quite a chore with the Turbo in the way. Use Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Blaster, and tap-tap-tap all the securing hardware. Maybe in the last steps the combo of acetone and a Dexron-Mercon like transmission fluid at a 50/50 mix?
It can take some time for the penetrant oil to work through. Tapping on the nuts is to help break up the rust bond.
Repeat with the exhaust manifold removed where the studs secure to the head. If factory original, they lose mass and strength, and break easily or bend. A horrible event with easy0=-outs and such.
I guess heat may work. Acetylene like heat.
Else, you can try the method of sectioning off the stud pass through holes for a single gasket and with prying, slide it in the gap, as PandA2016 agrees. After piece meal removal of the old, failed gasket, such modification of the new gasket may damage it.
Hope that helps.
Dud.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.  
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Thanks for the responses.
My car is a non-turbo 945.
And yes, the wise move would be to undo the manifold and redo all the studs, gaskets and nuts.
Every time I've tried to take off an exhaust manifold bolt the stud comes out because the nut is rusted to it.
I was kind of hoping for a quick fix to pass NY inspection... What with the weather still cold here. Guess I'll wait another week or so for warmer temps and redo all the gaskets.
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Hi MrNabisco!
Sure Happy it's Thursday (all day long)!!!!
The nut taking the stud with it is not so bad!
And you treat with Kroil, Blaster (P'Blaster?), or other penetrating oil?
I'll imagine you've read this in the FAQ:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Exhaust.htm
See:
Exhaust Manifold Gasket & Studs Replacement
Someone here posted some months the notion to use a wire wheel of appropriate sized and type on a rotary tool to remove the rust on the stud thread above the nut to prevent the stud from unscrewing with it. Such action smooths the rusty and uneven stud surface so the but does not get hung on it.
The other way, where the nut breaks off with the stud, and the stud breaks about even with the cylinder head surface is awful! If you don't have them, the easy outs, trying to drill it out, more trips to the tools store ... awful! In some instances of this, to save the Volvo, you may have to pull the head for some machine shop time.
I hope you have success to be able to get at it and get the task done easily and quickly!
Sort of glad it is not Turbo. That makes all much easier.
How many Volvo autos do you have?
Hope all's aces!
Thank you,
Lemon Boyeeeee.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Thanks for the message LB!
I had not reviewed the FAQ yet. Great tips there. I'll start spraying PB Blaster.
Every time I work on my bricks I am glad they are not turbos.
Right now I've got two Bricks and I am chief wrench for my friend's 945.
My 245 is about to sell on eBay because I need the parking spot. I just inherited my mother's silver 1994 945. The car has 86k miles on it and has been regularly serviced. I went to the dealer with her in 1994 when she picked it out... Actually, she wanted a 240 wagon, but we didn't know they had stopped making them in 1993 until we got to the dealer. There was one 240 left on the lot. A silver 240 wagon. But the dealer had driven it 17 miles and it had a slight scratch on the side, so my mom didn't want it. Imagine if she had bought that silver 1993 245... Anyway, I've grown to like 945s.Good cars.
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Two messages---Bert--I've always found ATF applied liberally for a few days usually works to free up manifold nuts. If you can't break the nut loose with a normal 3/8 ratchet (use 6 point socket) don't go for a bigger lever - get heat- heat the nut quickly to cherry red and it'll come loose. If you don't have access to an acetylene torch drive to a shop that does--heat the stubborn nut(s) to crack them loose and then drive home for removal. You will definitely have to remove the manifold--there's no way you'll be able to pry the manifold unless all the nuts are loosened--at that point you might as well change all four "captured" gaskets. Only use gaskets that are a metal sided "sandwich" as original.
Kitty--your dream of a 162 can be accomplished with a '75 164 which has the floor pan of a 240 series from the windshield back and therefore it's possible to mate the '75 164 front to a 242 rear. Years ago an acquaintance built a 165 doing that. Also years ago I ran into a fellow at Watkins Glen who built a 2-door 245 powered by a SB Chevy. -- Dave
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Kitty-- the 165 uses the double wishbone suspension of the 164 - not the McPherson strut of the 200 series so the springs are appropriate. What you want is a '71 164E motor for performance - 175hp. They lowered the compression ratio after that - 138hp. I've owned a '69 w/M400 & carbs - a '71E w/M410 - and a '73 w/BW35. The '71 was fun. - Dave
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In theory you could cut the new gasket so it slips on the studs instead of sliding on them.
Hard part will be getting the old one out.
Good luck!
Andrew
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