Hi Bruce,

That little white relay is actually two relays inside, so two clickers. One should come on immediately when you turn the key on to power up the entire fuel control system -- the AMM, ECU, idle valve, and injectors. That's the "system" relay.

The other should come on for one second when you turn the key to KP-II initially. That's the fuel pump relay. Then it drops out until the fuel ECU senses the spark signal (ignition) from cranking.

You can take the cover off and see what is going on in there. But one of the most popular reasons for the fuel pumps not turning on is a lack of signal from the fuel ECU (the blue/green wire) from an ECU with a pink label. Called "pink label syndrome" by many. The fix is a replacement ECU with a white label.

Check whether all you are missing is the fuel pump function by forcing them on with a jumper between fuse 4 and 6.



(from http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm )

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"No man would listen if it wasn't his turn to talk next"

i think you need to lean all your grounds,,

i will wager your in-tank pump has not worked for sometime and the only reason you now know this is because your main pump died from over work and exhaustion.

list of parts you likely will need:

main fuel pump
fuel sending unit

possibly an in tank pump

if the contacts at the top of the sender have rusted or broken off entirely it is quite possible your in-tank pump will work once its connected to a new sender