|
|
|
I long ago substituted Buss tubular glass fuses, with pointy ends, for those crumby ceramic fuses. But they’re hard to come by. And I’m tired of knocking off the plastic fuse cover with my knee and then trying to get it to stay back in place. Hopefully this item, “winging” it’s way to me via slow boat from China, will solve my problem. Maybe yours, too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Way-Automotive-Car-Fuse-Box-Block-Holder-For-Middle-sized-Blade-Fuses-1-40A/161741440704?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
|
|
-
|
|
|
OK, NOT EXACTLY A SOLUTION! My beautiful 12-way fuse block arrived today via China packet. Very nicely made, but physically a bit long for the application. Still, the whole thing is modular and the only real problem is the gratuitous space between the fuse holders. I may try fabricating a new block to hold the fuse modules or, perhaps try to use the actual metal fuse holders to update an OE 1800 fuse block (anyone got one they'd like to donate to the experiment?). But, for the moment, hold off on buying one of this, at least based on my say-so.
|
|
-
|
|
What's wrong with the original fuses?
I had a problem with the injection fuse on my 164, but solved that by daisy chaining a new relay inbetween the original pump relay and the modern one and giving that a direct feed. Likewise for the headlights. I use the Hella ones that hold a blade fuse, they come with 40 amp fuses, but I swap in 20 amp.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hello Dave,
I have always hated the glass fuses with pointy ends as they don't seat in the holders as well and are more likely to fall out than the old school ceramic fuses.
You should be able to get your replacement fuse holder to work, but in case you didn't notice, the original wiring doesn't have 12 wires for the supply side so you are going to have to add jumpers. And on the other side of the fuse, there are multiple wires attached to several single points, so you are going to had to add jumpers there too.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
|
|
-
|
|
|
I've used those conical glass fuses in both my 1800s, probably over a combined period of 30 years, without any problems. But, as I said, they are hard to find. As to the multiple connections at the fuse block, I have a boat load of crimp dual-spade connectors. Given that both the female connectors on the wires and the spades on the current block haven't seen bright and shiny in years, the plan is to replace everything. Can't wait to get in there and have that seat adjustment knob stick me in the middle of the back. Just love working under the dash. I WILL disconnect the battery first...and maybe remove the seat
|
|
-
|
|
|
I will remove the seat and seat tracks when I have to do extensive work under the dash, but not yesterday when I had that same !@$^ing knob sticking me in the back whilst installing a replacement brake failure/parking brake light in a 1968 1800S. I didn't remove the seat because it didn't take too much time.
The other thing that bugs me about that knob is that I almost always catch my left pant leg getting out of a later 1800S/E/ES and I have customers that have the same complaint so we came up with a fix, but it requires modifying the seat adjust lever and moving the outer seat track to the inboard position and the inboard to the outboard position.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
|
|
-
|
|
|
Eric,
I was looking at that possibility myself.
In order for the travel springs to hook up correctly, did the outboard left become the inboard right, etc., etc., etc?
--
Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
|
|
-
|
|
|
After the lever for the seat adjuster is modified, you can then mount the whole adjuster assembly to the inboard side away from the door and move the inboard slider to the outboard location.
FYI, the modification is to drill a new hole 90° to the original hole that holds the gate. You have to disassemble the part. Make sure the spring has enough tension to hold the gate in place.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
|
|
-
|
|
I have a tendency, especially on long highway drives, to tuck my left foot right up to the seat. Only to then go for the clutch and find my pant leg has gotten around that damn adjust handle.
Has never been a big problem, but I could see it as being a safety issue in an emergency situation.
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂
|
|
|
|
|
