Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 4/2008 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

Good morning all,

I've been having increasing problems with power steering and voltage, and most recently hunting idle and power shifts, on my new-to-me, neglected '87 245 with about 250k miles and no service records. I decided to do timing belt, water pump, front seals, and accessory bushings. I was not completely surprised on disassembly to find that the rubber in the harmonic balancer had failed and the balancer is spinning easily by hand, so I'm glad I have a replacement handy.

Unfortunately, I made the mistake of not loosening the camshaft and intermediate shaft sprocket bolts while the timing belt was still at tension and the 5284 tool engaged. I was able to hook it back up and free the camshaft bolt, but the intermediate shaft bolt is very tight and I can't seem to free it. And in my efforts I have so brutalized the old timing belt that it's loose and ripped.

Is there another way to free the intermediate shaft bolt, or should I just hold off on that seal change to the next timing belt change? I've installed the ipd flame trap relocation kit with an clean flame trap and cleaned the breather box, so the flame trap shouldn't be pushing oil out the seal for now.

I've searched for a solution to this in the FAQ and archives and either I'm not looking in the right place or this hasn't been addressed. Thanks for your brilliant ideas.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

Thanks for the helpful advice, guys. The first thing I tried was my impact gun. It wasn't up to it. That said, it's the cheapest gun I could get at HF (<$20) and I'm using a $100 pancake compressor. I picked up an old Craftsman air wrench at the pawn shop today ($18! See how cheap I am?). I'll crank up the pressure and see if that helps. If not, I'll check for the loaner tool at the parts store tomorrow after work. Failing that, I'll save it for the next timing belt change.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

Easiest solution, if you have it, is a 3/8" impact gun. The thing will come right off.

If not, then I would suggest using what remains of your timing belt and a large pipe wrench to hold the timing belt and sprocket in place while you wrench down on the bolt.

If you can use an extra long pipe on the socket, the added leverage will make the pipe wrench less likely to slip and/or move as the leverage point will be farther back than if you were just on the socket.

Just my thoughts on the matter, good luck.

Matt








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

And the victory goes to the $18 pawn shop Craftsman air wrench. Thanks for persuading me to give that another shot.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

You might be able to rent 1 of these from Autozone or Oreillys that have loaner tools.

You can use this tool to hold both cam and IS pulleys when tightening the bolts.




--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

hi planet- haven't seen that tool yet. curious how it works. do the short dowels on the business hook into the offcenter holes in the cam shaft gear so you can immobilize it from turning while you apply withering torque to the bolt holding the gear to the shaft? thanks tons oldduke








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

Yes.

I've owned the Snap-on version of that tool for almost 20 years.

Lisle makes a way cheaper version.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

hi planet- thanks for the info. have both snap on and lisle tools. lisle is good quality too like you say. understand how to do it know. probably better to have an assistant hold the tool on the gear while I strong arm the shaft bolt. probably better to use a six point socket too. think some one suggested using a cheater on the ratchet arm to increase leverage. might also require 2-3 f sharps.thanks tons oldduke








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

Not what you'd expect to see in a dealership service bay, but always effective for me at home is simply whacking a wrench with a rubber mallet.

Works easier on the cam because of the valve spring resistance, but the inertial mass of the I-shaft is plenty -- and the reason the air or electric impact wrench works so easily.

Because it works so well, I don't even make the effort to pick up the air wrench and change sockets, or find a holding tool. Once you learn how handy a rubber mallet is for breaking bolts loose, you'll keep it close to hand, and best of all, skinned knuckles will be a distant memory.





--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"I only have diamonds, clubs and spades," said Tom heartlessly.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Any tips on freeing the intermediate shaft bolt for a seal replacement? 200 1987

hi arty b- looked at your photos closely and agree the old rubber mallet trick often works. the box end of the wrench usually has 12 points (unless youre lucky and have an uncommon 6 point box end). the 12 point has a higher risk of slipping and rounding points of the bolt . that's why I prefer the 6 point socket with a cheater but you must be careful to hold the socket/ratchet on the bolt head. the old thumb trick on the box wrench end is good just don't slip or a torrent of f bombs might cascade. could get away with that in nj but not in md. swampers might give you a case of whupass. thanks tons oldduke








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Cussing helps 200 1987

Yup. Just heard of a study measuring the calisthenic output of two groups, one repeating their favorite cuss word and the other a neutral placebo -- the cussers won.

A six point box wrench has its uses, certainly. The twelve point has the advantage of giving you a better angle selection. Nice to have your choice.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"I couldn't believe there were 527,986 bees in the swarm!" Tom recounted.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Cussing helps 200 1987

hi arty b- yes that seems an accurate survey. have found it actually opens the sinuses allowing more oxygen to your cerebrum , increasing mental horsepower which in turn increases if only momentarily your diagnostic skill . downside is you will be verbally thrashed for it by first or current wives and churchlady neighbors, unless of course you are fixing their no start cars so they can go to town. good point about the angle selection. is there any risk of snapping that bolt by strong arming or using the impact air gun? fixing that would be a real mutha of a job- a sweet home run for a shyster. thanks tons oldduke








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Cussing helps 200 1987

This is great! I was working with a rubber mallet but I see now it was far too small. I guess I have mallet envy. At any rate, it did leave me with a purple finger.

I've been reflecting to myself that I fall far short of my late, beloved, and revered grandfather when it comes to working-on-the-car vocabulary. I even received a comment to that effect. He uttered language under the Mercedes that he'd never have allowed in the house.

I'm afraid I did such a terrible job on those seals that I'm sure to be back at at least one if not all three in short order. The camshaft went pretty easily - the other two less so. I'll have to develop a better technique when I come at it again. For now, I will need to get the little darling out of the garage.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Cussing helps 200 1987

hi handy- interesting comment about the grandfather. pop often told me to knock off that cussing, it sounds like hell. then uncle ike told me pop cussed back in the war. guess its ok when youre trying to stop the axis but not when your only removing an axle. sorry me bad. thanks tons oldduke







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.