Howdy cats and kittens

Always wondered about this

Can you put a turbo head on a non turbo B230?

Well, just did it on the free car cause the old one would fill #1 cylinder with coolant every night. LOL didn't even change the head gasket.

Had to delete what I assume is the egr as the turbo head is missing the ports under the spark plugs.

Will report back

Woohoo free car experiments!

(Got another engine coming that I will rebuild on the stand, so if she blows no biggie)

Some concern of an oil feed port aligning between B230 block and B21/23 Turbo head? Under the #2 exhaust port or so? Also, the head gasket is different, or at least, the gasket may partially block some coolant, or more so, oil drain back holes? I'm unsure.

As you already bolted the head on reusing the head gasket that blew, well, a moot point.

Seriously, you did not plane the replacement head and re-used the cylinder head gasket?

The B23 and B230 cylinder heads use stellite coated exhaust valves as does the Turbo. Only the Turbo has the sodium filled exhaust valves.

That is PulsAIR to inject air into the exhaust manifold. You are adding this to the 1994 940 non-turbo B230 block?
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They’re the exact same head, the turbo has better (sodium) valves fitted though. Cams are interchangeable as well, T cam is a little lumpier but still tame. I’d suspect the head gasket before the head itself though.

Hey

Running great!

Head gasket was the same, near as I could tell. Not sure about the oil squirters, will investigate.

I have two minor issues; I may have overreached with the head gasket as she seems to be pushing coolant out of the reservoir. Got a $12 elring jammie on the way to rectify that.

Second problem is she shakes pretty good at idle. Not enough to overwhelm the motor mounts, but more than seems right. Maybe the lumpy turbo cam? It isn't missing, all cylinders accounted for. No vacuum leaks either. I think I'll throw the n/a cam in there tomorrow and see if it was smooths things out.

Thanks for the replies!

Did you disconnect the egr solenoid wiring or remove it entirely and plug the hole in the intake? You should do this since you have deleted it, that would cause an issue if the computer opens the valve to atmosphere. Shaking idle is sometimes indicative of some ignition issue-check plug gaps, wires, distributor, rotor, etc. You should be sure to use the NA distributor and wires if you have Rex Regina ignition as the turbo will be Bosch.

Popped the head out today and replaced the gasket. In and out in under an hour. It's holding coolant again.

You know, I don't see this mentioned in the faq but pulling the head is almost impossible if you don't get a jack under the exhaust and lift it up about 3/4 of an inch at the head. I always wonder why nobody ever mentions that, cause if you don't its a real wrestling match and you gore up the gasket every time.

Anyhoo

Threw in the non turbo cam which smoothed the idle out some, but still shaky. Changed plugs and wires and cap and rotor no change. Rechecked for vacuum leaks.

Again, its not terrible, the car runs better than it ever has and is buttery smooth from 1200 rpm on up, just a quivery idle. Induction spark checker says its hitting on all cylinders. Tach just sits at ~700, doesn't jump around at all.

Gonna have to stew on this some more

Dear Felix_the_Cat,

Hope you're well. The FAQ betimes omits such details: I spent a day trying to install an in-tank send unit, which time would have been saved, had the FAQs contained an advisory: "the rubber fuel hose MUST be removed completely before an effort is made to re-install the in-tank send unit".

So, where is the jack positioned, such that it lifts the exhaust system, without doing harm? Do any of the exhaust system brackets need to be removed or loosened? If so, which one(s)?

BTW, I have the same problem - rough idle but smooth-running at highway speed - with a '94 940 non-turbo. I've changed all sorts of things, to no effect. I wonder if the valve shims have shifted and/or if valve lash needs adjustment.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Hey Spook!

Always glad for your reply.

Man I hate doing the in-tank pump. And I'm a wagon guy, so it is much easier even.

So I spent a lot of time fooling with it, and seem to be regaining ground, little by little.

I found a small vacuum leak, fixed, didn't really help.

What really helped quite a bit was removing the little grounding plates on the forward portion of the inside of the fenders on both sides. They hide under a big wire bundle zip tied to the fender. They were green and nasty inside of the spade connections, so I removed them and sanded them up and cleaned the connectors as best I could. That generally smoothed out a lot of things, really.

I just can't shake the feeling that I missed something.

At this point I'm just going to drive it and think some more. The only reason it bothers me at all is that the exhaust jumps around some at idle and that will eventually cost me money and time and probably blood too. I hate exhaust work.

I'm going to dig up my compression test kit, and check that. Some mouth breather at work says its rings. I might just test it so I can b-slap him tomorrow, lol.