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You're limited to the space between the hub and the spring cup at the front, and the space in the rear wheel well. 14 inch standard offset wheels (steelies may be best) with 195 70R or 75R 14 mud and snow rated. As for a good tire, I dunno what is best. Some may use 205 yet I'd seen them rub the front strut tubes when they were 205/60/14 on a 79 245 DL. With the 195 comes a higher load rating.
On the facebook pages:
Volvo 240 fan club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Volvo240Club/
(You may get the most help here in this group)
Volvo 240 Wagon Lover's club!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2230947348/
(Ask here, also.)
TurboBricks
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2204727570/
.... if you can handle sometimes drama ....
... all require facebook account and joining the group page.
Exit around a dozen, and maybe more, of lifted 240s. Though some are examples of fabricating the body to a truck frame.
Read and research here. POsting requires an account. I'm sure you'll find many threads.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/
As you are not far from Portland and maybe Seattle, you can find performance option. Contact iPd may help direct you to some outlets.
In one example some months ago, someone use coil springs from a Jeep Cherokee. I forget.
Yet for such a lift, an adjustable panhard and torque rods. Some may mod the rear trailing arms to increase length and durability with additional steel section to cover more of the open top of the trailing arm bushing box. Matching plate steel and good MIG or TIG or better weld methods and seal.
There exist springs of a much higher spring rate per coil and over spring height. Some will buy or fabricate coilovers as a mod to a front strut. Yet professional performance options you can buy exist.
Yet with stiffer springs you may want to use lighter (thinner) or no stabilizer bars. You want to preserve some sort of front to rear balance so certainly no understeer with balance or slight over steer if you mean to hot dog a bit.
If not already, restore the engine compartment belly pan. Plastic is alright yet iPd and other have a heavy aluminum one should you get into some trouble on mounds, rocks, and high centers.
A LSD or locking differential in place of the (don't weld it) open diff could help.
Do you have a BW35 (maybe BW55?) auto or M45/M46? I guess first and second are low enough no matter the final drive.
Ensure quality suspension bushes. If you have new or recent solid bushings, you will want to release and resecure the solid busing retaining hardware on an alignment rack so the bushing are at rest (not twisted) when set on a flat surface with no passenger or other load in the car other than that which you normally carry like spare tire, tools, and such.
Else, whiteline and other urethane bushes, well-lubed with synthetic silicon grease like the SuperLube NLGI II. The bushings articulate like a bearing.
Also, watch the strut mount (Volvo PN 1272455) as OEM is garbage.
Volvo OEM strut mounts .. early Failure?
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5426844
The solution is:
Kaplhenke 240 Offset Spherical Strut Mounts @ 185$ a piece.
https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-spherical-offset-strut-mounts
... so far as I know.
You may want to consider strut tower, upper and lower 242 GT braces, and the like.
A search on Bing or Google for "Volvo 240 Performance" will turn up outlets.
I dunno how you use or hot dog it in the wilds of WA and OR states.
So, hope that halps.
Questions?
Buttermilk MacDuffed.
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