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Post overheat top end rebuild, now zero compression 900 1994

Hey

So, 1994 940 turbo wagon, sat for three months waiting for $$$ for suspension parts. Before it was parked, ran like a champ.

I completed the suspension work, and took her out for a victory lap. Checked all fluids etc before departing, nothing amiss.

Got out on the highway maybe five minutes from my driveway and noticed a bit of a stumble and look down to see the temp gauge is pinned. Before I can commence any evasive maneuvers it stalls and I coast to a stop.

Both(!) legs on the vacuum operated plastic heater control valve are broken off, and there isn't a drop of coolant left in the motor.

The wife brings me a couple of gallons of water, and I leap frog it home, filling the cooling system and driving it for maybe three or four minutes until the temp gauge started to climb again, I would pull over, let it cool, refill, rinse repeat until in the driveway.

Things to note from the trip home:

1. dont judge, I was in a hurry to get somewhere and had limited options.

2. The last time I opened the hood to let it cool there was an insane amount of pressure in the cooling system. The expansion tank looked like beer foam. On the last leg the drivers side tank ruptured on the radiator. Upper hose ballooned a bit at both ends.

3. When I was cranking it to start after the overheat, it went whiiiiiiizzzzzzz and kind of worked its way up into running. I assumed this was lack of compression due to blown head gasket.

4. When it was going, until it began to get hot again, everything seemed fine, except that it sounded odd, an overarching phut-phut-phut-phut.

I have been maintaining a fleet of these things for years, so I have a parts car and stuff all over, so I dug in. Now, I've done more than 20 but less than 50 head gasket jobs over the years, so I can get it done now in an afternoon.

First thing I noticed was it spit the shim out from under the lobe of #2 cylinder intake valve. No damage to speak of, so I think it got hot enough in there for the cam bearing tower to grow enough to just let it slide right out. Yikes!

Now I may have been on autopilot a little too much but once I got the head off I didn't notice any holes melted in the pistons, or scored cylinder walls, or anything really out of the ordinary. In fact, the only observation I remember making to myself was a little chuckle over how small the lip is at the top of the cylinder.

Figured the spit shim = trip to machine shop so I pulled the head from the parts car (also ran great until it was taken off the road after kid fender bender that popped the airbag).

Buttoned it all up.


for the TLDR crowd:

overheated. changed head and head gasket.

Turned the key - same whiiiiiirrrrrr. Obviously its not holding compression for some reason.

I triple checked the timing marks, pulled everything apart and redid the timing belt again, even put it 180 out just in case I was going crazy and same thing every time.

Now I'm going out to pull plugs and verify compression, check the crank pulley for a sheared key on the sprocket or failed rubber in the harmonic balancer, or ant other crazy thing I can think of.

I'm stumped.

Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated. It's been a LONG time since I got this boggled over something like this, I know it must be something stupid I'm just not seeing....











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    Post overheat top end rebuild, now zero compression 900 1994

    After that kind of heat....I would just replace the engine.
    You won't hear me say that often.

    My daughter ran her 76 model 240 about 10 miles without any coolant in the engine, and after pulling the head, I junked the engine.
    It had actually gotten hot enough to melt the corner off of #2 piston.

    I'm not going to pour any $$$ into a engine that's seen that kind of heat.

    As "Trichard" said....that kind of heat can cause all kind of internal damage.

    Good condition B230 engines are too cheap and available.....I have 4 spares right now... for you to attempt a rebuild on a damaged engine.
    The reason that I have the spares is because no one is looking for them.
    They rarely wear out.

    Just my opinion
    Hope this helps








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    Post overheat top end rebuild, now zero compression 900 1994

    if you want useful assistance come back with compression readings for each cylinder

    the head you installed was presumably verified flat?

    the sort of heat you placed on that engine can do a lot of damage even in an iron block.

    your bearings could be damaged so you'll need to oil pressure test once its running again

    extreme heat can cause an iron block to crack!!!!








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      Post overheat top end rebuild, now zero compression 900 1994

      Hey there cats and kittens -

      Ok then back to it!

      Boy am I glad I'm an optimist. And I think a bit before I leap.

      First things first - hey trichard can't get compression numbers from a nonrunning engine. Has to be hot to be "meaningful", that's why I didn't post em. Could do with a bit less surly too, it scares away other posters, but meh, oh well.

      Now what HillBilly said, now that was useful! But not directly, I had to nosh on it for a while, but it finally hit me. You know, you get some rash ideas in your head and you move too quickly and this happens:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnZw5C8AtqU

      Heh.

      Well I've done all kinds of dumb $hit over the years to these cars and they just keep coming back for more. Really really hard to kill. Hell I drove one for 100k without ever changing the oil or even bothering to check the coolant. Free car, a beater for city commuting, why bother? HillBilly reports back, with engines nobody wants, because they never go bad. Hmm....hunh......

      And it was so UNIFORM. Whizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz when you bump the key. Not ruh-buh-buh-buh-buh-ba. And I pulled plugs and it wouldn't develop vacuum in the cylinders, ANY of them.

      I hateth myself! I do! I do!

      So long story short - the KEY SHEARED OFF THE FRONT OF THE CRANK GEAR that drives the timing belt so the engine stayed synchronized but the crank pulley with the timing marks migrated to almost perfectly 180 degrees out.

      I pulled the head again with the timing marks lined up and when it came off #2 & #3 were up, #1 & #4 were down. I had to look at it for a long time before the lightbulb went off. Arrrrgghhh.

      Anyhoo, I tried to include a picture of the sheared key in the image url. lets see if it worked.

      Started on the first key and I drove it for an hour and she's running like a champ.

      Sure am glad I din't scrap the engine.

      LOL!!!









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        Post overheat top end rebuild, now zero compression 900 1994

        lets try the pic again








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