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1988 240 Wagon problem: Cutting out under accelleration 200 1988

posted by Roger M on Sun Nov 5 09:03 CST 2017
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Question for the troubleshooting experts:

My 1988 wagon(5 speed manual) has developed a hesitation when I'm accelerating, particularly in first and second gear. I've come to the conclusion that it's cutting out and not just a misfire. The car has over 425k miles on it. I've owned it for almost five years, so I don't know the previous history of what's been done to it.

It runs good when the engine is cold. After about 10-15 minutes of driving, it cuts out bad when I accelerate from a stop under moderate to heavy throttle. once up to speed it runs ok(but it seems a little weaker on power than when it's cold.

I did clean the throttle body about a month ago, as well as a tune up(plugs,cap, rotor). I did replace both fuel pumps a couple years ago, along with the strainer/filter. I checked both pump a couple weeks ago and again replaced the screen on the pre pump and the fuel filter(both pumps checked ok).

Any help is appreciated.

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1988 240 Wagon problem: Cutting out under accelleration 200 1988

posted by machine man on Sun Nov 5 12:10 CST 2017
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last visit: Wed Oct 22 15:40 CST 2014

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Wow, is this your first post?
Some of us forget the past password a start a new profile.

Thinking ignition is the right place to start, always!
I thought it was interesting that you did not change the spark plug wires.
If you did within the last five years it might be ok.

The part I worry about, in a case of loading (1st & 2nd gears) up the ignition system, that it is not unusual that the coil wire can be bad. This is because it is not always provided in all wiring sets to with a low price bid and it goes on for many more years than it should.
An individual miss can always be blamed on a single wire or bad spark plug. But a total drop out can still start with a single wire too!
On some models of 240’s the coil location it becomes the longest in the bunch. It goes by lots of places that it can contact metal parts. It also will have the most resistance due to its length.

A cheap trick to check out your ignition systems integrity you can use a spray mist of water in the darkness of night. A spray bottle mist with the engine running may show some sparks jumping about or running down the outside of a wire. Leakage is a weak spark let alone a delayed one.
It’s not fool proof test but with winter coming the mist or higher humidity will appear.

I was just on another post about the ignition power amplifier RELAY.
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1650537/220/240/260/280/cutting_idle.html
It is located in behind the battery. It’s a recommended 5 to 10 year “maintenance item” depending on your climate.
It a middle man that actually controls the final firing of the spark coil.
You might want check out it’s grounding from the harness and for corrosion inside of the plug connection. Being that batteries out gas it’s not the most wonderful place for it to be.
It’s not like a coil wire, right in front of you all the time, as this thing is out of sight and out of mind!

If feel the need you can tell more about the condition of the car and it’s symptoms.
Any thing helps to get a feel of what you are working with.

Phil

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1988 240 Wagon problem: Cutting out under accelleration 200 1988

posted by someone claiming to be CB on Sun Nov 5 16:17 CST 2017 [RELATED]

1988 was the last year with the Hall Sensor---Volvo Chrysler Ignition. Also the last year you could check and adjust the timing(with a timing light) by turning the Distrib. There is no Power Amp Relay and No Codes.

Check that hose that runs from the bottom of the Unit (on the right by the Coolant tank) rubber short into a white plastic hose that runs under the engine in from to under the intake...

Check the wires that enter the distrib (that run from that Unit)

I know this is out of left field response, but what's the condition of your Motor mounts...Trans Mt. If they are shot, hard acceleration will twist the engine. And ???? open up a crack in the tube that runs from the AMM to the Throttle body....just as an example. Or stress the above mentioned cnnxns

PS. that Ignition Vacumm cnxn. DisConnect it. and Plug up Both sides.

This is a problem with high NOX readings. However the cause of the Hight readings is the way this units screws with the the timing Advance.

References:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/804019/220/240/260/280/nox_volvochrysler_ignition_lengthy.html

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0027/5402/products/DSCF6620_large.jpg?v=1374427993

http://www.240turbo.com/240ignitionharness85-87.jpg

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1988 240 Wagon problem: Cutting out under accelleration 200 1988

posted by Roger M on Mon Nov 6 11:36 CST 2017
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I ordered a set of spark plug wires and got them on this morning. The car seemed to run smoother on idle, but still cut out under acceleration. I noticed when I was changing the wires, that the ground strap from the firewall to engine(rear of the valve/cam cover) was only attached by a couple of strand of the ground wire.

I cut the end off and crimped a new end on. The car seems to be running great now! I only drove it around the block but it did not hesitate or cut out in those couple of miles. The plug wires did help as far as making the engine run a little smoother.

For what it's worth, I did have to replace the motor mounts a couple weeks ago. the passenger side mount was broken as well as being mushy from oil. That could be part of the reason the ground strap was bad. I will be changing the transmission mount soon

Thanks for all of your help here. Much appreciated!

Next up: Blower motor. Sigh..

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1988 240 Wagon problem: Cutting out under accelleration 200 1988

posted by Onkel Udo II on Mon Nov 6 12:55 CST 2017
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 08:50 CST 2014

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That ground strap is really only for radio interference suppression so I would be seriously checking the "real" ground wire for external or (pretty common) internal corrosion.

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