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Cutting out on and off idle 200 1993

Hi all,

I'd hoped this problem would get more consistent/worse, so I'd have more information to bring you, but here we are. The trusty Volvo occasionally (1-2x per week, maybe?) cuts out. I'm baffled and ready to start throwing time and small wads of money at the problem if only for some new data. Here's what I can give you:

* symptoms: goes from running fine to a hard stop/dash lights on (i.e. no sputtering or warning); has happened both on and off idle though never at high speed; has happened cold and warm engine; always re-starts normally; if it cuts out once, seems more likely to happen again on same trip; NO OTHER DRIVEABILITY OR STARTING ISSUES

* other info: NO CODES SET (1-1-1 on both fuel and ign); fuel relay has been replaced; AMM has been swapped for "known good"; this is the weirdo '93 with main system fuses on positive battery post; auto tranny; have twiddled the fuses with no effect

Thanks for your help. I'll report back if I get new info or figure it out.

Best,
joe b
pdx or








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    Cutting out on and off idle 200 1993

    Ignition power stage (aka ignition module) can do this. If the thermal paste is all dried up or if the connections are poor. For the price of the Germanic replacement, I suggest swapping it an making that paste a 5 year maintenance item.








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      Cutting out on and off idle 200 1993

      OK, power stage is an interesting suggestion. When we first got the car (many years ago) I went about checking all the wiring and grounds. Found the power stage on the fender completely disconnected! Followed the wiring to wiring a second unit sitting loose under the battery tray. Ran fine. I attached the connected one to the fender, threw the other in back, and hasn't thought about it since. Worth an investigation. I didn't know about the thermal paste. Best, joe








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      Cutting out on and off idle 200 1993

      Hi Michael,

      I agree with you on that ignition amplifier or electronic spark relay being a possible culprit.
      When writing up my suggestions I forgot to throw that in. I figured I would catch this post again when he writes back just in case he finds nothing.

      Art Beinstein has written about the reliability of the connector collecting up some corrosion on the pins. He has suggested that just removing the connector and putting it back on helps scub the pins and it helps to renew or improve the operation.
      He is very scientific about gathering his hypothesis but he admits the data is limited to how many one sees.
      I believe he is on to something so I just service the component. In my climate 10 years is my guess to how often I do it.
      The heat sink paste is easy to put in between the base and the transistor. The cleaning of the ground wire, from the connector harness to the fender, has to be very helpful as well.

      Good to see you pop back on here with us.

      Phil








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    Cutting out on and off idle 200 1993

    Hi,

    How old do you think the Crank Position Sensor is?

    Phil








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      Cutting out on and off idle 200 1993

      CPS age is unknown, though wire sheath looks good and wiggling has no effect on running. My understanding was CPS usually causes a no start or no restart, but it's cheap enough maybe I should just rule it out. Thanks! -joe








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        Cutting out on and off idle 200 1993

        Ok,

        You have ruled out the system relay and it’s plug on socket for bad terminals.
        It’s hard for a AMM to shut down a car but it can make it run lousy.

        The hose behind can make it die if idling or stumble when taking off. Make sure the throttle switch is clicking from idle mode just as soon as the plate wiggles in the bore.
        You cleaned the bore and it might be out of kilter just a enough to cause a transition issue from idle to power on pulling.
        The fuel management system is a stickier for sudden unmetered Air ingress from excessive leakages. Checking all the vacuum hoses was a good idea.

        The next thing that pops into my mind is the main fuel pump connections.

        If it the original pump or definitely a non Bosch pump, may have corroded terminals or some loose/ jury rigged one’s on the fuel pump itself. Most of the time the original pump will be sprayed with undercoating somewhere on it.

        As the pumps start getting really old they can pull extra current which can overheat the bullet terminals up inside the shroud.
        You have to pull them out and make sure their clean and snap back in place, down inside, like a spark plug wire. I spread the splits a tiny bit.

        The age comes in on these pumps as the brushes have worn a lot in 200,000 miles.
        Are you anywhere near that mileage as I know the years are?

        I just picked up a 1993 and I plan on eyeballing the pump closely from underneath for that condition.
        It is not exhibiting any problems at all and it just passed it smog test well below the states average output of emissions.
        The car was well taken care of but the struts are shot. This tells me it’s been bounced a lot or lots of pot holes in Nevada. Since was a bird watcher, I bet it saw some off road wear.
        So inspecting under the car I will be doing very intently looking for brush rash!

        Maybe talking more about the cars condition may raise up a clue for someone else?

        Phil







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