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Is there a best practice for removing the EGR System altogether or are there any alternative piping parts I can substitute for the broken Exhaust to EGR Valve pipe? I cannot find it online or anywhere N/A. Part no. 1326417
Also the EGR Valve I received has a third smaller port, can I just seal that off for my B234f engine? I must've got the wrong EGR valve...
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Are you still working on this ? Why do you think the EGR valve is bad or was that the original problem ? If the broken pipe caused your Check Engine Light to come on, stick with just the pipe.
To fix the pipe, find a piece of tubing that will fit inside or outside the original pipe. It won't be perfect because the original pipe is a metric size. Then either braze, solder, or JB weld it into a one piece assembly.
JB weld has the advantage of being able to install the pipe to get the bends in the right orientation. The disadvantage is that it can run or drip if you use too much. Regular JB weld is good to something like 400 degrees. I think they have a high temp version.
I brazed mine (240) but the break was in a straight section close to the olive.
Greg
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Hi jonaix,
What year Volvo 700 series? It helps.
Do you know what Bosch LH-Jetronic fuel injection and Bosch EZK1xx ignition control your 700 series come equipped?
You've already imaged some solutions:
- Replace the faulty EGR pipe
- EGR Delete. Plug hole in exhaust port manifold (or replace it with B234 non-EGR version, rare as hen's teeth, as many use this metaphor on this forum) and plug hole in intake port manifold (or replace, yet plugging is fine if the plug is effective and endures). Replace the Bosch fuel and ignition control units. May need to move some conductors (wires) at the non-EGR control unit wire harness connector interfaces.
Do you know the Bosch and Volvo PNs of the fuel and ignition control (computer) units? We have Bill's list that only lists the LH-Jetronic ECUs:
http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm
No listing of corresponding Bosch EZK ignition control modules.
Another, and may merely duplicate, is in the 700-900 FAQ:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineFIComputer.html
Or the local brickboard version:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFIComputer.htm
- Use the failed pipe, if not too horrible distorted, for a machine shop, or maybe a pipe fitter outfit, or the like, to fabricate new from appropriate stainless. The EGR piping was originally made of stainless. So, that's why it rusted.
The EGR valve you now have places the EGR temperature sensor thermistor in the EGR valve, and not downstream of the EGR valve in the EGR pipe between the EGR valve outlet and the air intake port manifold. That is, if you have an EGR temperature sensor, as I've encountered RWD Volvo models EGR equipped without an EGR temperature sensor on LH-Jetronic-equipped RWD Volvo models up to 1995. Though very rare. Dunno if a proper configuration. On K-Jetronic-equipped Volvos, EGR temperature sensors secure to the cylinder head and were a 'wax' thermostat, open the EGR valve to engine air intake vacuum when coolant was warmed enough.
(We should write in German or Norwegian as we love them compound nouns, or use ad nasuem prepositional phrases, from Latin, French, and Italian, A holdover from the French invasions of England. Or lazy U.S. standard English use. Ha-heh-beh.)
I quick glimpse of Volvo parts vendors indicate Volvo part number 1326417, the EGR pipe between the B234 exhaust manifold and the EGR valve inlet is no longer available.
Tasca Parts in Cranston, Rhode Island
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-pipe-1326417
Volvo Parts Web Store:
https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=238475&ukey_make=865&ukey_model=20180&ukey_category=7072&ukey_trimLevel=24652
Volvo Cars Annapolis, MD
https://parts.volvocarsannapolis.com/p/Volvo__/Pipe-Genuine-Classic-Part/42923946/1326417.html
Item 13 in the image. I'll guess the PN would normally include the securing hardware, collets, and such:
Though this outlet in Europa may help. What remains of their on-hand stock?
http://www.volvozone.eu/en/178217-gcp-pipe-volvo-1326417.html
You may want to ask at Turbobricks forums. Or some manner of facebook pages or groups. Search using both Bing and Google and other search located outside US.
Else, maybe the 700-900 FAQ helps you? Maybe not? Also, an EGR pipe from a B230 may be made to fit, if longer originally, and if available. The hardware ends should match at the exhaust port manifold EGR exhaust gas outlet hole and into your EGR valve inlet hole so long as the fit is the same where they secure. Though fabrication may be your only bet. Or total EGR deletion and replacement of both the engine control units with non-EGR versions.
Or try at salvage yards for replacements as I have.
For some reason, two of the BrickPix images don't display. From my 1991 240.
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1627292/220/240/260/280/hacking_egr_system.html
Hope that helps you.
Questions?
Silver State Boy? No Show Me in Show Me state.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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So I have started by seeing if the pipe shown in the exploded diagram is the correct pipe and if it would fit, but it was not and wouldn't fit. So I cut a 2 inch piece out of the pipe and replaced that with a brass union. The result was not optimal, one because it was the wrong size compression union 1/2 inch and two I cut the pipe too short. I was trying to get lucky, and sped through the process of making a pipe that was going to work solidly. please see photo of my first attempt. I'll be looking for the 7/16" brass compression union to make a better fit from the pipe I ordered (1357029). Will post back and take my time to measure twice and cut one time.
https://brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/13026.jpg
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Kittysgreyvolvo: Hello! Is an EGR something I should try to find for my 1991 VOlvo 740 Base, with Bosch???
SHould I just be planning to get to the junkyard to find another?
Mine is not confirmed dead, but is this an item I should,could and would plan on getting somewhere? Are these available for purchase somewhere?
Thanks so much,
Rattlebone
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Hiya Rattlebone54,
No simple question. Though others and I had written on this topic before here.
And a hearty Sure Happy it's Thursday (all day long) to you, yours, your kittys and puppies, and your Volvos!!!!!
How many miles? Auto or manual transmission?
So, you own a 1991 Volvo 740 base (8-valve B230 and non-turbo) equipped with Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 and EZK116 (crank position sensor) in CA-state?
Is your 1991 Volvo 240 originally a CA-state-purchase (or Germany)? If so, it will come equipped with exhaust gas recirculation (EGR).
Though it does not matter, does it come with the PulsAIR that draws fresh air into the exhaust manifold?
To pass the CA-state visual inspection of emissions controls, *if* your 1991 Volvo 740 base, the EGR equipment has to be fitted to it and no dash lights on indicating fault as the engine is on and running.
So, spare parts:
- The EGR pipe between the exhaust manifold at the input end of the vacuum controlled EGR valve. Made of stainless, these do rust. Also, the ends can come loose a bit over time. A compression fitting of collets at each end for a leak-free seal. Though there is dual-threaded fitting at exhaust manifold end to which the EGR pipe at the end secures.
- Spare EGR valve. The EGR valve can fail or become stuck open or closed. If stuck open at all times, the engine eats exhaust at times it should not.
- Spare EGR temperature sensor. These temp sensors are durably frail, with probably vibration or the two wires at the sensor end causing failure. I believe your year would be like my 240 with a positive crankcase coefficient (PTC) thermistor temp sensor. I'm unsure, yet these PTCs may have persisted to the 1995 model year on 4 banger redblock. I've red on Turbobricks have discovered a break in the thermistor temp sensor wire, cut and resolder, and sealed for under-hood conditions successfully. I can't recall if they had to dig into the potting at the thermistor temp sensor end. Should have included some sort of strain relief at the end of the EGR temp sensor thermistor for that wire. Though failure after 20+ years seems pretty good, like this Old House or something.
- The EGR pipe between the EGR valve out to the air intake port manifold in. They are not inclined to rust. Though some hydrocarbons can condensate inside the downstream EGR pipe over time, more so if just short trips and grocery getter action and use mineral (not synthetic) engine oil, or if so out of tune or runs rich (should get OBD-1 fault codes if so). There is a diamond- or trapezoidal- shaped sort of cork gasket at the flange end of this second, or downstream, EGR pipe that secures to the air intake port. This gasket get brittle and shrinks, and you may be able to maintain seal with a slight tightening of the two screws. Yet this gasket replacement with suitable make a gasket replacement, or the Volvo / aftermarket gasket would be a good idea-r.
- Probably as critical as the EGR valve, yet not as catastrophic, as a failing EGR valve, is the EGR servo, what FCP Euro calls the Volvo EGR Vacuum Controller - Genuine Volvo 3531138, that opens and closes on engine temp and engine load input. It is the little servo with the opaque yellow and white lines attaching to it. It is mounted on the North American driver side strut tower someplace as on 240 or any model EGR equipped. There is a clipped on cap that Machine Man Phil make mention in some of his posts that indicates a collapsed foam air filter to filter out air in-rush when the servo depowers and releases engine vacuum on the EGR valve so the EGR valve closes. Phil replaced the filter with some material suitable for the conditions. I'll guess there is some inlet into the engine air intake side to when this servo depowers.
I'll ignore the older EGR versions that used the engine mounted wax thermostat to allow engine air intake vacuum, engine temp, and engine load to open and close the EGR valve. The thermostat is located under the third air intake port manifold runner. USed with K-Jet. Maybe early versions of LH-Jet? I'm unsure if EGR comes with carb equipped 200-700.
So, you have two variations as to EGR temp sensor placement and whether the EGR Valve can be fitted with the temp sensor. At variance also may be the downstream EGR pipe between the EGR Valve output and the connection at the air intake port manifold.
The first and original factory configuration:
1. EGR Temp sensor thermistor is secured to the downstream (or second) EGR pipe with a hole the second EGR pipe where the EGR temp sensor screws into.
2. EGR valve has two holes: 1 for exhaust gas inlet and 1 for exhaust gas outlet
A Volvo TSB changes the setup and becomes the second configuration found on maybe 1993 240 or more so 1994-1995 and later models so EGR equipped.
If your EGR fails and you choose Volvo stealership service, they may more than likely change to the Volvo TSB.
1. EGR Valve has three connection holes. The first (or upstream) EGR Pipe as before. The second for the 'downstream' EGR pipe as before. Yet a smaller hole for the now relocated EGR temp sensor thermistor into the EGR valve body.
There may exist two variations of EGR valve that may place the EGR temp sensor hole at one of two locations at a right angle to suit the under air intake port application. With respect to the vacuum valve and vacuum line connection nipple. I'm unsure. Though the vacuum line nipple is usually oriented as upward as possible as I'd seen in in-life examples and in images.
2. EGR Temp sensor thermistor is secured to EGR valve downstream of the valve in the EGR body. Else the inlet and outlet pipe connections are unchanged AFAIK.
3. The second, or 'downstream' EGR pipe between the EGR outlet and the connection at the air intake port manifold may remain as is with the hole accommodating the now superseded EGR temp sensor position, yet a nut and washer seal this hole as is available from Volvo as part of the TSB.
Or this pipe is replaced with new and has no hole for the EGR temp sensor.
I'd have images, yet iPd no longer sells EGR for 240 as of the last few months when last I checked.
Hmmm. No iPd sold EGR pieces for 700.
Or 940.
Beh.
FCP Euro has some parts and pieces here:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/740/EGR?year=1991&e=914&m=20&page=1
Use the Volvo PNs and find places like the Volvo parts webstore for diagrams. You can see what is available, though if you can resolve the OEM, you can buy these cheaper.
I cannot recall the names of the OEM for the EGR pieces I used to have the names in mind. You may be able to find the OEM name on the item body. All the spare EGR parts I have are 50-miles away in some swampy nasty hellhole midwestern storage locker. For my 1991 240.
EGR service is merely checking that the bits work. Some may check for clogging ot the pipes or leaking at the unions. The first EGR pipe gets rusty and can fail.
Also, EGR on LH-Jet is more controlled by the EZK116 ignition control module yet there is some monitoring by the LH-Jet 2.4 injection ECU.
See here:
http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm
Same info in the 700-900 FAQ. (No, no 90 series there. Why would there be?)
What makes Bill's list about utterly useless is naming the Bosch or Chrysler-MPG ignition control unit that are mated to a specific LH-Jet ECU by versions such as 20, 2.2 early or late, and 2.4. These units are mated whether EGR or not (and reasons for other pairing as Turbo or not, yet that's treated more loosely).
Also, some carbed 200-700s use the EZK117 (non-turbo) for ignition. EZK115 is Turbo for LH-Jet 2.2 Turbo? I'm unsure.
So, you may want known good spare ECUs. Later and improved versions have white label.
On my 1991 240 with EGR, I use an LH-Jetronic 2.4 ECU ending in -933 or -954. The butterscotch -556 factory ECU remains in the trunk, having not delivered any trouble.
I want to remove the EGR and have spare LH-Jet and EZK116 ECUs and are EGR free from my 1991. Plug up the EGR holes in the exhaust port manifold and the air intake port. Verify ECU pinout positions and install the spare 561 or 951 LH-Jet 2.4 and corresponding EGR free EXK116 controllers. I'd like to move the 1992 to LH-Jet 3.1 as it is much more sprightly. Heh-heh-Beh.
EGR reduces fuel economy by about one gallon per mile to reduce NOx emissions, primarily. I believe it to be BS. PulsAIR does more yet is frail-fraught.
That is about all I know. Find diagrams from part numbers on the FCP Euro pages.
Check these posts, also:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1650231/220/240/260/280/egr_temperature_sensor.html
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1627292/220/240/260/280/hacking_egr_system.html
Failure of the first, or upstream, EGR pipe:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1652025/220/240/260/280/rusted_egr_pipe.html
More on EGR, stay for the funny images:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1597823/220/240/260/280/exhaust_issue.html
Searching the RWD page for my username and EGR.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Back to Applying for Tech Writer jobs boyeeeeeeeee
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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The valve in this picture looks like the one I ordered. I see a third orifice/opening directly south on this picture. It looks like a temp thermistor, can anyone confirm? can I plug this with a bolt and copper washer? I have a separate temp thermistor already present on the intake egr pipe side, that looks like what is possibly affixed in the photo shown bottom-middle inserted into the valve between the two compression fittings to each of the two EGR pipes.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7088/7373829660_4b32dcd45a_c.jpg
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