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TheBrickTank offer good guidance. Though you would raise the unibody and set securely on axle stands set under the front jack points. Than use a trolley / floor jack or a bottle nose jack to lift and lower the transmission. Chock both rear wheels and engage the parking / e-brake.
Though please take note, the two wires, usually in some manner of sheathing, that run under the carpet and the shift boot into the transmission tunnel may have chafed, suffered, and lost insulation, causing shorts and blowing fuse (I guess) #5. Also, the rubber insulators at the wire ends that seal and provides some manner of extra mechanical grip for the connector are probably rather brittle, frail, or other wise gone. The connectors them selves that slide onto the switch contacts may also be frail or in a state other wise not so useful after 28 years and 335k miles.
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/
So, it may be best to anticipate the fabrication of a new section of wire-up to the reverse light switch on the venerable M47 II with new contacts with a mated connector to the wire harness somewhere under the carpet or center console kick panel near your right knee.
So, some mechanics in NM-state or where? Well, here are three resources. Verify using the BBB, social media, and sakes, and such.
https://www.brickboard.com/SHOPS/
Click and Clack Car-Talk.
https://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files
https://www.volvomechanics.com/
Perhaps others in the Santa Fe or Albuquerque, NM-state region can help you.
I'll guess the state you're traveling to require working reverse lights as part of a safety inspection.
On my (li'l red) 1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon, with M47 II and lots of love, the wires are bare (without insulation), and so I disconnected the wire harness to reverse lights conductors some time ago. I mean to put a lighted center console toggle switch for sometime now. Yet my 1990 240 is so goofy, what with a an awful front end accident two owners ago in 1999 during a St. Louis ice storm, apparently. So, the fuse panel cover legend is great, if it was a 1993 240. Yet the wire up would be wrong for any 240 versus factory. The shorting reverse light wires would fry the brake light (or stop light) switch.
At least the instrument cluster BRAKE FAILURE light is off now, after the boondoggle with a MO-state safety inspection require front brake flex line replacement. Some mis-representation, shall we say. Other than auto emissions inspection, to prove your car runs well, or the new catalytic converter scrubs the exhaust no matter how poorly it runs for a few days, before the new cat fails.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
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