Greetings. I have 2 1990 240's. On one of them, the front strut appears to have failed (leaking, knocking sounds, bouncing all over when you hit a dip). Two questions: 1. are they difficult to replace for a do it your selfer? I've looked at some step by step instructions but appreciate any advice 2. what strut would you recommend to use - from ipdusa - a. bilstein touring class front strut 106057 ($67.40) b. genuine volvo front strut 125833 ($66.53) c. other? Thx. Mark

They're not that difficult to replace, but it is a fair amount of grunt work. It is much easier if you have access to air tools or at least a decent 1/2" cordless impact. You will also need a decent set of spring compressors and two large pipe wrenches for the gland nuts. If the old gland nuts are very corroded, I use an air hammer to spin them off. A floor jack is also a nice luxury to support and/or position the strut on the reinstall.

Mark the strut orientation to the strut tower so you can put it back in the same position to maintain alignment.

Don't remove the strut from the car unless you have to. Messing with the brake lines complicates things further.

Bilstein touring have a nice ride, firmer than stock but not harsh. A good choice IMO.

Bilstein (B4) Touring Class +1.

They'll fit your factory strut cartridges.

Bilstein HDs and de Carbons won't, no matter the fanfare for them here or any where without modification difficulty. The fit is exact, and the gland nut that secures the strut damper cartridge inside the strut tube must fully engage the thread.

Also, if original to your 1990 240s, another concern are the strut mounts. Age and miles should so as bushing materials separating from the outer diameter of the center bearing assembly, the inside diameter of the outer strut mount shell that secure to the under side of the strut tow via the three studs that peek through the strut tower sheet metal.

Volvo OEM strut mounts .. early Failure?
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315522

(Ha, stupid photobucket users. And now you can't see the images here that showed Volvo OEM strut mount failure in six months.)

Kaplhenke has two strut mount camper plates (mentioned in Turbobricks link).
The less expensive one may be the solution. Though we know not the duration my miles or time.

http://www.kaplhenke.com/

The sometimes folly notion of using racing parts on daily drivers.

Kaplhenke is designing a new daily driver camber plate secured to the 240 upper spring perch.

At any rate, some You Tube videos may provide useful information.

You can do the work without removing the strut. Yet do not distress the flex brake lines, even if you have disconnected the inner fender plate where the solid copper-nickel secure to the inside (versus strut side) ends of the flexi brake lines. ATE flexi brake lines are a good bet front and rear.

Spring compressors vary in design, and some better suited for the under the strut tower-fender space on 240. Rental spring compressor can be worn and grimy. Should you go that route, clean the thread of grime and metal bit, and use some grease on the thread. Turn the spring compressor nut on each side evenly and manually using hand tools. Do NOT use an impact wrench.

While you are prepping for the work, consider the control arm bushes, if not already replaced, the inner and outer tie rods, front hub grease pack - hub tension (or free play) and inner seal if not already treated.

Brake fluid a clear golden to a mild tan color? If dark to black, a Motive or like power bleeder is the best bet for a brake fluid flush.

If the front strut dampers have failed, how are the rear dampers (shocks)? Also, inspect the rear hub works like the parking brake and the rear hub grease pack, bearing condition, and new grease pack?

iPd lists the Volvo OEM gas charge strut cartridges as made in Spain:

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12400/125833-front-strut-240-260

They appear like Boge or Boge made by Sachs. Maybe Boge or ZF manufacturers these in Spain, and are of the fine quality of the original made in Germany Boge dampers?

Cheaoer than iPd at Sale Price: $54.36:
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-shock-insert-274235/

From Spain? Keep the gland nut used with the original damper you remove. The Made in Mexico Sachs gland nuts are awful and strip easily.

Hope that helps.

Questions?

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Thank you so much

Agreed, definitely check the condition of the strut mounts before replacing the strut inserts. If in bad shape replace at the same time. Normally, I would say replace them automatically when replacing the insert. However, (as KGV mentioned) replacement OEM 240 strut mounts might be prone to early failure so if they are okay I'd leave em' alone....

Maybe a strut plate or a non-Volvo brand mount would be okay. European made preferred. No Chinese junk.

All of the suggestion made cover the job---see my post regarding another inquiry recently (within a week) for an explanation of how to set up the job to do the strut on the car. The other fellow was doing a complete front and rear suspension overhaul and wanted a guide as to the order of work. As others have mentioned--you don't want to mess with the brake lines unless absolutely necessary. -- Dave

OK--I saved you the trouble--here's the first part of my post---When doing the front suspension over I start from the top and work my way down. I replace the strut inserts and top mount while the strut is still attached to the car. If you do not have to disturb the brake lines you'll save yourself a lot of grief.
1.Raise the front and support at the jacking points--front suspension hanging.
2.Loosen the bolt for the control arm front bushing and also the nut on the stud for the rear C.A. bushing (one is easy to reach the other not so much--you can remove the three bracket bolts to gain access but put them back in place to support the strut assembly. Dis-connect the sway bar from the CAs on both sides. Step 2 is to allow the CAs to swing down easily.
3. unbolt the brake line bracket on each side (one bolt, 12mm socket) lift the brake line over the body bracket. Take the three upper mount nuts off--the strut will drop--push it down far enough so the top clears the fender wheel. Put a jack stand under the brake disc "hat" so the strut is hanging out at an angle and supported. Now you can do the strut/spring/mount job. When that's complete jack the strut up into position and secure the mount to the body. -- Dave