Volvo RWD 900 Forum

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NEW post car dies kill switch style 900

For those who have been following this thread. The car dies kill switch style. Yes dead completely no power anywhere. A couple of hours later the car regains power and starts.
I have been stuck with the idea of a bad crank position sensor. I have disconnected the sensor after the power is restored and the power remains, the car turns over but of course will not start. So now I am clueless like most of you. What is causing this power outage is still a puzzle.








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    NEW post car dies kill switch style 900

    Get a new crankshaft position sensor. It was the same problem as me. It would run when cold then heat up and die because the resistance in the sensor wire got worse and the signal gets screwed up. Car runs awful then dies.








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      NEW post car dies kill switch style 900

      https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1646531/940/960/980/V90/S90/new_post_car_dies_kill_switch_style.html

      "It turned out to be a loose cable at the battery."

      I guess when doing this stuff, helping people through remote control in forums like this, one should not ever presume the basics such as battery cables at the battery posts are secure and corrosion free.

      I think I said something about the checking charging system.

      Sometimes I believe I'm so stupid about this stuff sometimes.

      I guess a little more glamorous then removing rusty exhaust systems in the mid-1980s from very early 240s and later 140s and the rare 160 and Amazon. (So loved working on those cars then, yet it was work.) I want to unbolt it, yet this is rusty rust belt St. Louis MO. The shop owner wants me to cut it out, yet you still have to unbolt it, and we argue the point.

      Rather let a day or two or penetrant, use acetylene torch, what scared the karp out of me on determined hardware, pull the rusty exhaust out, and discard it.

      Rusty and filthy work.
      --
      Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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    NEW post car dies kill switch style 900

    Problem solved.
    If you are familiar with the set up of the positive cable in the battery. there are two nuts one tightens the cable to the battery and the other tightens other two cables. That one was loose.








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      NEW post car dies kill switch style 900

      Awesome! I think you can edit the title and main post to say "RESOLVED" just in case someone comes here with the same problem, you might just make their day!








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    Possibly its the ignition switch 900

    Dear volvitowagon,

    I'll second Spook's view on the ignition switch being the likely culprit. The switch is the gateway for electrical power from the battery for ALL engine running purposes. As you've aptly described its could act as a kill switch.

    Regards,
    Amarin.








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    NEW post car dies kill switch style 900

    Dear volvitowagon,

    Hope you're well. I suspect the ignition switch. When the ignition switch fails: (a) not even the emergency blinkers will come on; (b) all instrument cluster warning lamps are "out". In short, when an ignition switch fails, all electrical systems are "dead".

    A failed crank position sensor will not cut power to the entire car. Via the engine control unit, the crank position sensor's signal allows the fuel pump to run. When the engine stops turning or when the crank position sensor's signal is lost, the fuel pump shuts down.

    Cutting power to the fuel pump is a safety feaure: if a collision cuts a fuel line and stops the engine, the loss of the crank sensor's signal prevents the fuel pump from pushing fuel through the cut fuel line. This reduces after-collision fire risk.

    Hope this helps.

    Yours faithfully,

    Spook








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      NEW post car dies kill switch style 900

      hello spook. After some time I concluded the same thing so I looked some place else and thought about the ignition switch too. It turned out to be a loose cable at the battery. Even it seemed everything was very tight when moving the main harness a smaller wire on the other side was loose. By starting the car and moving this loose wire the engine die and I could noticed lost power to the lights for a split second, but could not duplicate the entire lost power. Go figure the cable got just on the right non-contact spot while driving and stayed there like a phantom








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      Placement of crank sensor 900

      Dear Spook,

      Regarding the position of the crank sensor, I think the purpose it is wedged in such tight space between the back of the engine and firewall is that if severe frontal collision occurs, the entire engine + trans bell housing will be pushed back BREAKING the sensor thus effectively stopping the engine.

      This tight space placement has been a bane for servicing purposes (this more so for the 200 series) whereas it is there for safety. I salute those Volvo engineers.

      Regards,
      Amarin.







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