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Hi Guys [and Gals]!
It's been a while since I've posted anything here, but now that I'm finished with my degree and the weather is nicer, I'm going to be more often. I haven't given The Old Lady as much attention as she deserves lately; in fact, she's still resting in the garage from the very cold Ohio winter on jackstands. Regardless, it's time to get her out!
I recently purchased a 123ignition electronic distributor for my '58 PV444 (6V, B16B), aka The Old Lady, and was wondering if anyone else has had success installing one of these babies. The only challenges I see so far is that my original coil only has a negative lead, and the new distributor calls for both red and black wires to be connected to the two coil leads which it pictures in the instruction manual. Curious, if anyone else has experience here and if you know where exactly I should be connecting the red lead? I was thinking that it should be connected to the power line which is embedded into the anti-theft sheath on the inside of the firewall, possibly to one of the terminals on the ignition switch, but wasn't sure.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
PS. My apologies for the gi-normous picture.
All the best,
Anthony "Tony" Scarola
1958 PV444 - The Old Lady
http://www.scarolas.com/Home/58volvopv444
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Anthony "Tony' Scarola
1958 Volvo PV444 (aka 44408, 444L, Old Lady)
See https://sites.google.com/a/scarolas.com/www/Home/58volvopv444
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For an update... I installed the new 123ignition distributor today and all went well. I ended up connecting the red wire on the distributor to both the gray/brown wire on the starter motor (this runs to pin 50 on the ignition switch) and the green wire on the fuse block (ACC, for heater, blinkers and wipers), which comes from the ignition switch (pin 54). This is essentially the same as connecting to both pins 50 and 54 on the ignition switch. I also used a single diode part number 1N4001. I connected this between the starter motor and the junction between the distributor (red) and the fuse block (green). Full schematic is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07rcs4l1MTyc1NDNUxpZ3IyRHM/view?usp=sharing
All the best,
Tony
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Anthony "Tony' Scarola
1958 Volvo PV444 (aka 44408, 444L, Old Lady)
See http://www.scarolas.com/Home/58volvopv444
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A friend of mine works on hot rods that cost up to 100K.
Most of the guys that he does work for carry a good distributor and the parts to convert their car back to a conventional ignition system.
As he says - any good mechanic can get a conventional system working ... when a solid state unit gives out, you are toast.
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Had I actually looked at the site Ron, I would have seen the schematics! Thank you again! I'm installing today and will let you guys know how it turns out. All the best, Tony
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Anthony "Tony' Scarola
1958 Volvo PV444 (aka 44408, 444L, Old Lady)
See
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I installed a 123Ignition on a 1958 with the stock 6v coil by connecting the power side to the fusebox to a fuse that gets switched power and installing a
starter button.
The starter button is needed because all of the fuses with switched power lose power when the starter is activated when using the stock coil assembly and ignition switch.
You can install a diode and tap into the the starter wire to supply power to the 123Ignition ala IPD when cranking, but I prefer the starter button method.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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You should sell a diode with wire and ends from starter to coil + as an upgrade, got me puzzled why Volvo didn't do that to the 140's.
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An alternative falsehood is an alternative fact in a post truth world. - TG.
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Tony;
Good info from Eric except I need to point out that if you install a Start Switch Pushbutton, you wont need the diode connection for power during cranking because there is no Loadshedding. You can go ahead and simply power the elec ign from ign power.
See also: http://www.sw-em.com/123Ignition_in_a_Volvo_with_Armored_Cable.htm (info is for 12V, but you 6V system is substantially the same).
Cheers
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What does the relay powered fuses feed?
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An alternative falsehood is an alternative fact in a post truth world. - TG.
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Paul;
I presume you are referring to Relay on the Skandix info sheet...
Fuse2 normally supplies Brake Lights, Horns, Reversing Lights (in a 122), but when Fuse2 and 1 are intact, and Relay is energized, power would back-feed also to Fuse 1 loads meaning that Relay would also supply all those. The point of that Relay is to circumvent Loadshedding, and again, it simply isn't necessary when Mom Start Switch is used.
Cheers
BTW, and to clarify...to answer your other question...its a girl, but even if it was a boy (creepy as that would be, and I'm saying its not), it would satisfy the reason it is there in the first place: BACK (navigation).
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BTW, and to clarify...to answer your other question...its a girl, but even if it was a boy (creepy as that would be, and I'm saying its not), it would satisfy the reason it is there in the first place: BACK (navigation).
I get the back thing, but I've just been reading a pile of your web pages and the majority of pictured people doing duty as back buttons have shoulders wider than their hips, a fairly good indicator that some of these long haired people might be Chicks with Dicks!
Some good stuff in there, the Loctite thief story was funny, the main stuff I use is "LOCTITE 290 SUPER WICK-IN" so the choice of the word WICK seemed apt. I use 290 on rod bolts after torquing down using oil, especially if forced to use a torque wrench. Loctite also make some purple sealant that is better than using the crappy paper gaskets Volvo use on timing cover and rear seal housing.
Your horn button relay is a good page, I do that to my 140's, the stock power supply from the crappy Lucas fusebox is plenty, but the horn button sucks, same as on 120's, etc.
You would do well to use metric with electrics, 1mm squared is good for 10 amps, 6mm□ is good for nearly 60amps. On the old Volvo wiring diagram pic you see 0,75 which indicates 0.75mm□, so the wire is good for 7.5 amps.
OTOH, One page that bothered me involved modifying the water distribution pipe, I have to query it. The terms "hot car", "hotted up", etc., came about because modifying some of the old cars makes them run hot, particularily flathead motors where the exhaust ports run though the block, which suck, because I certainly like looking at the V12 in Hotrod Lincoln song! The cooling in my 140's is plenty for a decent running B20 built up to match Volvo's own rally engines. I run no mecanical blades, a manually operated electric fan and a NON-functioning pressure cap. Temperature range here is 0° to 40°C. Volvo's old parts book and the rally catalogue you can find on the www show heads, cams, ADDHE carbies, headers, close ratio gearbox, LSD, numerous diff ratios, but the only cooling up grade is for oil.
Have a good one!
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This picture:  on your the bottom of this page http://www.sw-em.com/123Ignition_in_a_Volvo_with_Armored_Cable.htm is it a boy with long hair or a young girl? The broad shoulders with narrow hips looks like anything BUT a woman to me, makes the page look strange.
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An alternative falsehood is an alternative fact in a post truth world. - TG.
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