From the driver's side the rear window doesn't work but the window will work from the back door. Has anyone solved the problem,what color wires causes it?

Found the problem,it was the red jumper wire.Corroded cleaned up and lubed. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP.

Hi,

You carefully remove the switches, dismantle them, and clean them. I like to take them apart and soak them in hot water and get some paper with the nose of some pliers and polish the crap away. Machine oil will work well enough as a lube, but silicone grease would likely be best.

No color of wire causes this.

Goatman

---Django Reinhardt - Lambeth Walk - London, 30.08.1938

Thanks Goatman, I will give it a try.

Take the switch apart on a white towel preferably on kitchen table. Watch that the springs don't jump and get lost.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/WindowSwitchRepair.htm
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I did have a power window stop; one of the three.

Before futzing with teh (LOL Cat) switches, I removed the driver door armrest, and tested the switch.

Gave the wire harness connector a wiggle, switch worked again. Though I sprayed the switch(es) and connectors with teh (LOL Cat) DeoxIT.

And then there was teh (LOL Cat) time all of them halted. Fuse? Spinny-spin-spin. Nope. Remove fuse and chip away and what was moar like dental tarter. Also used a small stainless wire brush. Some rotten bastard light fingered Louie my DeoxIT spray can. So, some SuperLuve SillyCon grease. Nope. Nope. Nopey-nope. Relay? Nope.

Dag. Nab. It.

Before this, I'd already been in the doors of the 1990 Volvo 240 (li'l red) Wagon. Power window regulators were loose, door handles were loose, clean out the door drains (replace exterior window scrapers), lubes the locks and latches, adjusted the door opener adjustment. (The door handles come loose and so do the power window bolts). Clean and greased everything inside the door and the rear hatch.)


So while trying to think, and nuttin' happened, we have (some of you have seen these):







Went up and down. Power supply side and the load side. Corrosion at the backside of the fuse box. No apparent leaks. Just corrosion. A few of the terminals at the wire ends broke. So, had them handy.

Need to get mo DeoxIT. That stuff RULES. Low voltage DC dielectric corrosion dissolving and inhibiting grease.

Probably after getting the carbon contact pits off the power window switch contacts, slather the DeoxIT grease in there. (I had the SupeLube, again. Works. Yet does not dissolve corrosion. Dielectric, tho. Good for teh tail lights where the light bulb holder contacts slid around.)

Do no use a NoOX (and DeOX?) or other conductive grease like that used for high current, high colta AC and DC systems.

DeOX and DeOXIT are not the same.

Hope that hepkats.

Flea Bite Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
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Like KGV said usually a malfunction of the connections rather than the switch.
Sometimes just sliding the connector plugs on the bottom of the switch almost off and then home again might be enough to restore current flow.

Sorry I have been working on my truck,put new/used engine in it so I haven't had a chance to look at the window problem yet. As soon as I do I will report back.Thanks for all your input,the Ford forum's have never bin as good as the Brickboard.

Take your time. This board has been so slow your thread will remain in view.

To be helpful to anyone interested, let me explain about the switches, where the likely fix will occur. Each switch in the window circuits, with the exception of the one for the driver's window, depends on contacts normally closed by another switch.

If you follow the path in this example circuit diagram, you can determine whether a switch contact, a fused circuit, or door jamb wire is at fault with each carefully observed symptom in a failing power window. This drawing represents the concept used to wire local and remote switches, but you may need the correct-for-your-year-and-model drawing to help with wire colors.

1991 Power Windows Circuit

1991 Power Windows Components

These switches have silver contacts, which is great for conductivity, but in low-voltage, high current circuits, switching reactive loads (like motors) the silver will be tarnished by the heat and gases generated by the arcing that occurs when the switched circuit is opened. Next time the switch closes, it is possible the mechanical wiping and low voltage needed to break through that tarnish will fail, and the contact to turn the motor on will fail.

You know this is happening when you have to try five, ten, maybe twenty times to click the switches before anything happens. And maybe even failing then if you don't know to exercise both switches -- the local one and the one in the driver's panel.

Making them reliable again is possible by restoring the silver contacts.









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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Doc, I can't stop singing 'The Green, Green Grass of Home.'" "That sounds like Tom Jones Syndrome." "Is it common?" Well, "It's Not Unusual."

Thanks Art, I had a chance to check and clean the contacts also tried several other switches but had no luck. Next up is your circuit diagram,I think it will show up when I go through it.

From your original post: "From the driver's side the rear window doesn't work but the window will work from the back door."

If the symptom hasn't changed, and "doesn't work" means it neither raises nor lowers from the driver's panel, yet does both from the local switch, the problem is, I'm almost as certain as Goatman was, in the driver's panel switch.

In theory, it could be the short red wire between the child safety switch and the driver's panel switch for that rear window, but in practice, it is more likely the connector as Kitty suggests, than a broken wire, given how little exposure it gets.

However, symptoms tend to change as we get into the repairs...

Check all windows from all switches, both up and down. That will provide the clue you need.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

My wife really likes to make pottery, but to me it's just kiln time.