Hello All,

I am going to be cutting through the armored cable this weekend. I know very little about electrics, but I was able put the alternator in. So firstly, when I get the wire out of the cable, is it going to positive on the new coil? Secondly do I need to remove the wire coming from the dizzy... Mine is a yellow wire. Lastly do I then run a wire from the starter junction to the negative side of the new coil?

Sorry in advance for my questions.

Thanks
GD

GD;

Cutting into armored cable is not necessary...diode cable is not necessary...tt's all covered here: http://www.sw-em.com/123Ignition_in_a_Volvo_with_Armored_Cable.htm

Good Hunting!

Are you cutting into the cable because you want to get rid of the original coil arrangement as well as install the Pertronix? If so, the wire within the armour is +12 v supply to the coil. It will go to the +12v on the new coil. The red wire coming from the Pertronix module also connects to the +12 v terminal of the coil. The black wire from the Pertronix module goes to the negative terminal of the ignition coil. Whatever wire that you currently have that connects from the coil to the distributor points should end up in the spare parts box along with the old coil, ignition points and condenser.

You may or may not be aware that if all you want to do is install a Pertronix module, you don't need to cut the armoured cable or get rid of your old coil. There is a thing called the diode kit that IPD sells which allows you to install the module without messing with the coil and the armoured cable

Yup,

you're exactly right. I want to remove the entire thing. I bought the chrome insert for the fellow in Greece on ebay, and I've got a new coil and the Pertronix sitting at home already. So then the yellow wire coming off the dizzy to the negative post on the outside of the coil just comes off?

Thanks,



gd

There are 2 other ways to make an add on electronic ignition work with the stock ignition coil.

Install a starter button or if you have an updated starter there is a pole on the solenoid that can be used to supply power to the electronic ignition while starting.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Hello Eric,

I do have the push-button start,and my starter is a newer Bosh about four years old. installed by the original owner... It was suggested that I use IPD's wire & diode kit even if I remove the old coil altogether, is that the case?

Thanks,
GD

+1 What Eric says, This also mans you don't need a diode kit.
More mportantly, look on u tube or elsewhere for some basic tutorials on automotive electrical and ignition systems,(these volvos are not electronic) and get up to speed on basic wiring theory, practices etc. This will serve you well in the future regarding trouble shooting/diagnosis etc....if available, Haynes Motorcycle Maintenance has a great chapter on electrics, and some other mechanical stuff that is very clear.

I would avoid hacking into the armored cable as well.
Especially since there are reliable alternatives.
A starter button is always a good idea on 122 models anyway.

Stand alone coil $20. Armoured cable coil $730. You're destroying the later to basically change it to the former.

If you want to be destructive, do it neatly and carefully drill a hole in the centre of the cap on the end of the coil. Use a spot weld cutter so you only just break through the metal. Solder a length of thin red wire to the existing solder connection, which is the + wire from the ignition switch. Use a blanking grommet with a very small hole in to seal the coil back up again. Thread the new wire through the bulkhead and attach to the Petronix red wire. This will be hardly noticeable under the hood if done with care.

Using the diode kit is cheap. If you already have the late type starter it's even cheaper and with both methods you still have your $730 coil.

Idea. Swap your intact functioning coil with someone who has a wrecked one and charge them the price of the Pertronix.

I'm neglected to mention that the coil is leaking whatever fluid is inside of it so I'm pretty sure it's going to have to come out all together.