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A/C Valve Leaking

posted by  rjritterjr74 on  Sun Jan 22 13:53 CST 2017
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A/C suction valve is leaking again. I got a substitute valve from a scrap yard and bought Schroeder inserts from the dealer. It will be fine for a couple months and then leak again. The valve body is no longer available from the dealer unless I wait 6-8 weeks for it to come from Sweden.

Is there a way to stop the leak? Or is there a different style of valve and insert I can get? I am definitely ok with retrofitting a newer style from another vehicle if I know what I'm up against to complete the retrofit.








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    A/C Valve Leaking

    posted by  Amarin on  Sun Jan 22 17:01 CST 2017
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 22:42 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    Hi,

    From where does it leak? From the Schraeder valve insert? From the O ring at valve base? Or from the black plastic cap screwed over the valve (the one that has "6Nm" wording on it)?

    Most AC valves are supposed to work WITH cap on it. The Schraeder valve insert alone couldn't withstand the refrigerant pressure. There's a yellow O ring outside on Volvo's valve body which is supposed to act as SECONDARY seal when its black plastic cap is screwed on (PRIMARY seal is provided by the Schraeder insert). This O ring could have been flattened by now. Replace with new one (R134a compatible O ring). Lubricate a bit with refrigerant oil or Nylog blue before screwing back the valve cap.

    If you've lost your valve cap then try to find it back. Its precious. If it was lost at the AC shop ask them to find it back. Volvo's valve cap is the best as it comes with inside metal thread which could be tightened more compared to generic replacement caps. And it works perfectly with the valve body. Once my valve cap fell into a hole on the car's body frame during my AC work. I ordered and tried generic caps but some these seal poorly. Tried a few of them until finally got one with proper seal. Finally I fished back my fallen valve cap because replacements are not as good.

    Temporary replacement caps could be obtained from the web. Go to:
    http://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/store/c16/Service_Items_and_Kits.html

    Volvo's valve cap comes as part of the valve body set. You could try your luck from ebay (sometimes its there) or finally order from Sweden.


    Regards,
    Amarin.








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      A/C Valve Leaking

      posted by  rjritterjr74 on  Sun Jan 22 19:00 CST 2017
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      It is leaking from the Schroeder insert, which is where all of them have leaked. I owned the car for about 9 years before it became a problem. I don't know if it's leaking around the insert (i.e., threads) or up the middle of the insert itself.

      I do have the cap on.

      I will try replacing the outside o-ring. You're right, it has probably seen its share of wear by now.

      As an extra measure, I have also put an o-ring inside the cap, so there would essentially be two o-rings for the cap. Refrigerant still seems to escape, albeit gradually. I have checked for leaks elsewhere and had the system professionally checked. It's not leaking from anywhere else. I've also had two Schroeder valve inserts professionally installed, with the same result. The first one lasted two years. The other about a year. And I have only bought valves from the dealer hoping to avoid that problem.








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        A/C Valve Leaking

        posted by  Amarin on  Sun Jan 22 20:12 CST 2017
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        last visit: Thu Oct 23 22:42 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        I see.

        The Schraeder valve is normally self sealing by the rubber ring below its threads and the spring that keeps the valve bottom shut (another rubber seal there). When I installed mine I put Nylog blue on the rubber ring (the one below the threads), the threads itself (yes) and another dab at the valve bottom (have to press the valve tip a bit in order to expose the bottom rubber seal to apply). Nylog blue is available thru ebay and maybe local your AC shop uses it.

        Other than using Nylog I think you could try to retighten the Schraeder valve using a valve core tool. Firstly loosen it a bit (not too much as refrigerant could escape - this just to know how tight it was installed) and retighten it tighter than that. If you retighten it during AC is running (engine on, etc) then the low side pressure should be around 35 to 45psi (compared to AC off at rest around 80 to 100psi) so that not much refrigerant could escape if it does.

        You could apply the soap bubble test (dishwashing soap + water, worked up with sponge until lots of bubbles) on top of the valve body opening after retightening. Tighten a bit more (using valve tool) until no bubble pops out.

        Last time I did also install that second O ring within the valve cap (one suitably sized, located around the inside threads) but I find this is not needed with the outside O ring on valve body renewed.

        The Nylog is worth trying if retightening wouldn't work (but this would require you to evacuate the system and recharge).

        I think thats all to it.

        Good luck!
        Amarin.







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          A/C Valve Leaking

          posted by  rjritterjr74 on  Sun Jan 22 21:09 CST 2017
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          I have not heard of Nylog, but perhaps that's the kind of answer I have been seeking. I will change the o-ring, and next time I have to do a re-charge will pick up some Nylog.

          The o-ring inside the cap tends to get mangled in the threads eventually, so I'm with you, it is probably not very effective.

          Thanks for the reply!







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