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I’m interested in possible options to retro mod a P210, to improve braking/suspension/driveline and parts availability and make it a daily driver. Could not really find anything on the net, even on the Swedish site Garaget.org.
Does anyone know of any information regarding a good fit for a P210 body?
I’ve heard someone mention a Chevy S10 frame/driveline, but I think the S10 is too wide and the wheels would stick out too far on both sides. Frame would be easy enough to narrow, but the rear axle, steering rack and suspension geometry would be too much work.
Any ideas, comments, links would be greatly appreciated.
JimK
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It will be worth much more as a 210 than a weirdo.
--
MPergiel, Walker, MI
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Not sure what you are really after but I'd have to agree with Cameron, upgrading the current car with Volvo parts will leave you with a very drivable car for daily use in most conditions- I have done the same for the last 20 plus years. Grafting onto another make frame and drivetrain will give you some modern conveniences under the shell of an already great make- I would think that that you could be missing out on the real experience!
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Well then, sounds like sticking with the 120 parts is the path of least resistance. Once I get to bring the vehicle home in spring, I will have a lot of body work. So, your suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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posted by
someone claiming to be P of montreal
on
Fri Dec 30 09:06 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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I'm pretty sure you are going to have to work a lot harder getting a different frame and drivetrain in there then just maintaining what you have. A few simple mods will get you disc front, maybe a b20 with m41 and modern ignition/injection. At that point you will be very reliable(more than many modern hard to repair inj/ign., systems.). You will also maintain the value of the vehicle as chop jobs have limited appeal and with time we will see many transplant cars going for very little money as their components wear and become obsolete, and people look for original vehicles. Old Volvos have very good parts support, the hardest stuff to procure is body work stuff, not drive/brakes/engine stuff.
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At this point, I do not yet have the p210s in my possession until spring. I should be able get them and measure the track (wheel mount to wheel mount surface).
My research indicates that the 82-89 S10s have a track width of 54”.
The P210 track width is 51.2” Front, and 51.7” Rear. A difference of 2.8” on the front and 2.3” on the rear. Then there is wheel offset which may or may not be in my favor.
I did see a project where the rear PV544 fenders were added and the front fenders were widened. That’s another option but more fabrication required.
I like the idea of setting the body on an existing frame/drivetrain without getting into something too complex. This would make for a much shorter project allowing more time to enjoy driving it. Seen too many projects in pieces abandoned due to cost, effort, and loss of interest.
If I can’t go the simple way, I might as well stick to the original drivetrain and convert the front to disk. Rack & pinion steering would also be nice.
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posted by
someone claiming to be VoVoGeezer
on
Sun Jan 1 15:55 CST 2017 [ RELATED]
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I have gone thru some Bench-Top conversion options for a 445-B210 and you can start w/ the Junkyard. Find some links to Brick- guys who are doing restos, and can find all the measurements you need. If you find a resto going on, can look at the bare frame pictures. You will see that 445/210 frame is a sturdy, Boxed frame that fits the body already. S-10 frame big,heavy,think small and EZ.
Stock 445 Rear end has Leaf Springs so you can use whatever you want back there. you can use a 140/160 front cross member for discs, close in fit to original.
The Nissan hard body P/up from the 80's -short wheel base would be my choice to swap or "clip". all boxed, has torsion bar suspension , steering box out of the way, look it up, dead trucks around for 1-200 $$ Can clip where the torsion bars mount under cab. Favorite Hot Rod frame...seen Chevy V8's in 40 Fords w/ this frame, Nissan even has a limited slip rear-end. Nissan clip + VoVo rear frame w/"any -Rear end" My 2c
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122/early 1800 front disks will easily fit the PV spindles. A 140 crossmember install is possible but involves MUCH more work.
For our 445, we kept it simple: 122 front disks, B20, M41, 4.56 differential with factory limited slip. No problem in traffic, cruises easily at 80. No grafting nor welding required.
Cameron
Portland
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Again, I think you find it is in no way easier. Unless the frame is dead flat and even distance apart throughout its length and the donor is the same...it is quite involved.
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I guess everything depends on your vision of what you want at the end and how much you want to spend. A straight body swap onto modern platform sounds so easy...but it really isn't.
If you frame is repairable, you are usually better sticking with it using the hot rod world to help you with suspension, steering and brakes. Drivetrain swap choices are going to be more a challenge were you have to work do a lot of homework yourself.
Examples from our 1948 Plymouth:
Ford Explorer axle gives you choice of 7 different rations and it was 2" narrower
Ford Explorer front brakes were also relatively easy to graft on the front spindles but we could have also gone with a number of kits based on the design of the Mustang II (Pinto) from suspension.
There is also a guy that figured out how to use a Cavalier rack on the existing steering and suspension bits to get away from the giant steering box.
For engine swaps we had a few easy and than many progressively harder options. Easiest other than sticking with the flathead 6 was the Ford "Big 6" because it is only 1.5" longer, about the same height and the manifolds are on the same side. One step up in difficulty is a Dodge Dakota 318 that use a specific style of exhaust manifold that will clear on the drivers side.
In your case I am betting that grafting bits from Miata parts car will be easiest. People will almost give away the the 1.6L rusty NA models with perfectly sound modern drivetrains. The BP engines are pretty common and the rear axle is likely narrow enough. If not, consider looking at the last of the RWD Opels for a axel...they were quite narrow and most are returning to the earth at a rapid rate.
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There's a guy on GrassRootsMotorsports who has fitted an 1800ES "body" over a Mazda Miata "chassis". A TREMENDOUS amount of work. Furthermore, he's using a Miata "kit" to put a 5.0L Ford efi motor in the "Mazda" engine compartment.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/volvo-p1800eskinda/72311/page43/
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Take your pick.
If people can make dune buggies and kit cars out of old Volkswagens, you could probably take any small RWD car or truck and cut it down to go under your 210.
If you can find one in really bad shape for small or no money, you could use it for a mule and experiment with it to cut it down and reinforce it to suit your needs, then get a good one for the final product.
In Auto Restorer, Carl Bauske is converting his autocross 245 named Buster to use dual Webber carbs so that he has more freedom to tune it to suit his needs.
He purchased a $300 244 mule named Dino to do the conversion first, then when he put the parts into Buster he knew what mistakes to avoid - the fitment from Dino to Buster is going much smoother.
A Toyota or Datsun pick-up that is well rusted out might be a good choice. You might be able to upgrade them within their brand as well.
As for width, If you use a chassis with RWD wheels, the wheels could be modified to FWD offset. saving several inches of width. Or you could just use FWD wheels.
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