Just an update from sometime back on by 1990 240 DL Volvo. Previous threads sought out the problem of why it will just suddenly die when driving and then sometimes not start back up right away. I find now I can just let it idle in the driveway and after a few minutes it will just die. It will restart. I have cleared and checked the codes after I see it die and to best I can see, I only received code 224 on pin 6. Note that I have bypassed the temperature compensation board as my temp gauge wasn't working so that may be why I get the 224 code. Since last time to try and resolve the dying I have replaced the fuel pump with a new Bosch and put in a new main fuel pump filter, replaced the in tank pump filter and the in tank pump assembly with a used pump/assembly. It kicks on just fine so I see no problem there. I cut out and replaced the 25 amp fuse holder and fuse with new. I also checked the ground at the alternator, took it off and cleaned and reinstalled. I cleaned connections at the battery and ensure all was tight. I also tried to fix some bad wiring at the rear speedometor sensor connection and replaced the gear in the instrument panel (unrelated but speedometer worked for a few seconds and stopped and odometer didn't move so still working on this one). I had also previously replaced the fuel relay on the passenger side inside the car. End result on the dying problem is it still dies after a few minutes of running and it seems to be increasing in frequency and more easy to replicate, which is probably good as to finally finding the problem. My next step and probably the last I know to do is to replace the Crank Speed Sensor. I have wiggled it and seen nothing but I will try to check and see if bolt is tight below, then remove and reinstall, and if that doesn't work buy a used one at the junkyard or a new after market, not sure. It seems the CPS fits the profile of being a possible culprit. I appreciate all the comments and didn't mind spending the money on the new fuel pump. I've only been able to work on it sporadically and do have other cars in the interim. Most previous board comments pointed to a ground or loose connection somewhere, the 25 amp fuse and fuse holder under the hood, or the CPS. One other question. I can't tell how I can get to the back side of the fuse panel inside the car at the drivers side? I realize the car could run without these fuses but I do seem to have a couple copper pins there that seem very loose to wiggle with the touch. I don't think that's the problem. Additionally I do still need to pull back the AMM boot and check some voltages as Art had recommended. Other possibilities I guess would be the AMM and the computer itself.
Very best regards and thanks for all your previous help. Mark

Hi martnplyr,

Socket 6 (EZK Ignition ECU) fault code 2-2-4 nothing no connection to the dash display coolant temp gauge and your bypass repair of the temp faker board. Congrats on the repair. Have yet to repair the same.

Oh, I see, we've treated this subject before for you:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1636188/220/240/260/280/volvo_240_still_dies_driving.html

Was wondering why Art has yet to reply.

I do not know whether socket 6 (EZK Ignition ECU) fault code 2-2-4 causes a check engine light. The corresponding LH-Jetronic fault code of 1-2-3, missing or faulty ECT sensor signal, DOES illuminate the check engine light.

And the problem persists?

A quick engine start, run, and quit may be CPS, fuel injection relay, AMM, and TPS in no order. Art provides some AMM testing and other guidances for you in your earlier thread. You've jumped fuses and made the fuel pumps run for a suatined period. (And you keep a charged car battery, well, charged.)

As you know, your 1990 Volvo 240 DL engine has two temperature gauges. Please see linked image (image on crappy, stupid, & dumbass Photobucket, so, third party cookies must be accepted in your JavaScript enabled browser):



The temperature sensor of your interest, and the wire harness connection(s) in between, is the illustrated image item labeled "ICU Thermostat". Incorrectly labeled. (The best image I could find in short order.) The item is actually a dual-thermistor engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor used by both the LH-Jetronic fuel injection and emissions control computer (fuel injection ECU) and the EZK ignition and emissions control computer (ignition ECU).

The ECT connector ot the wire harness presents two pins at the connector. At the wire harness connector, one pin electrically connects to through the engine control wire harness to the LH-Jetronic fuel injection ECU. The other pin electrically connects to the EZK ignition ECU.

Temperature information to the EZK ignition ECU, and I'm unsure, may alter the dwell (duration) of spark as well as timing of spark.

So, there may be fault at:
- The ECT sensor, requiring replacement (though you test before replacement)
- Wiring fault at any wire harness connection point between the ECT and the EZK ignition ECU under the glove box mounted to the bulkhead firewall in the passenger side foot well.

The ECT can fail. More so if the coolant is of an incorrect mix, or is very old, or corrosion between the ECT sensor and the thread interferes with the connection to ground.

So, you have some fault diagnosis ahead of you. That require effort, or up to 150$ hourly for some auto repair service to rip you off, get it wrong (rip you off or they are stupid)

The ECT is not easily accessible. as it is is under the air intake port manifold #3. ....

Yet we are repeating ourselves from the earlier thread treating this very same issue as you see the link above.

The CPS can be faulty before the forgiving nature of the fault tolerance of both the ECUs (fuel and ignition). A 1990 240, if it has the original CPS is probably due for replacement. Failing CPS cable insulation revealing a silver foil liner is a clue for replacement. Some factory installed CPS cables had a yellow band painted on them near the connector end. If you see a grey band, the CPS may have been replaced at least once.

A 1990 Volvo 240 may gave fault at the throttle position switch (TPS). The LH-Jetronic ECU is very forgiving for fault with this switch. Dirt and grime intrusion can cause fault. So, if properly adjusted, when you start the engine at it runs and quits, the TPS may not have proper contact. And I forget if the LH-Jet TPS switch (unless you have early LH-Jet 3.1 (using the throttle position sensor - TPS) is off (foot off gas pedal)-on (foot on gas pedal to normally accelerate and maintain speed) -off (Floorin' it, if the throttle body moves to all open, and some don't, as Art mentioned in a post before) or if it is on-off-on.

TPS position, if properly adjusted, and foot off pedal, will turn on the idle control feature and the idle air control sets the engine to idle.

Yet we can go on speculating.

When you check for faults using the OBD tester, you check both sockets 2 (fuel) and 6 (ignition). If any fault codes, repeat procedure until no new fault codes display. You know a blink code of 1 - 1 - 1 is fault code free.

Any fault codes while connected to socket 2 at the OBD tester?

Oh, now I recall my frustration with your earlier thread, linked above.

As I wrote before, I would repair what faults the OBD reports. We list several in your prior thread (linkedin above). Test, diagnose, fault-find, and correct the problems you know you already have.

Yet OBD fault code is not the whole truth. Some items may be at fault the OBD cannot report on. Also, indeed, the CPS may be at fault and the OBD may not report on it.

The list of fault-inducing sensor, devices, and configurations on a your 1990 Volvo 240 that cause a engine start and quit condition are well-listed over the years in innumerable threads.

SO, I suggest you get real handy with that multimeter and test light methods. Very engine control wire harness continuity (like the connector at the ignition power stage, as fault at this connection can not ever be reported in the OBD).

In that so aforementioned post, you have a link to the Volvo Wiring Diagrams web site. Go check it out.

Hope that helps.

Signing off.

Dud.
--
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Kittysgreyvolvo,

First thank you for replying again. Let me address a few things you mentioned:

1. I did about 3 or 4 tests of the car dying, then reading the codes, then clearing, then repeating:

a. first time I got codes 232 and 112 on pin 2 and 224 on pin 6. After I cleared and repeated two more times I got all clear 111 on pin 2 and code 224 on pin 6. I have experienced code 123 before on socket 2 I believe, but I am not sure what I was doing when that happened. I recall I have at times had the check engine come on and I cleared it so thinking that was probably the 123 code.

2. I am remiss for not doing the suggested AMM testing before and will try to do that this week after reviewing that thread again.

3. Coolant I believe while looking good may be old. I've never changed it. It's the green coolant.

4. From what you describe, it sounds like the temp sensor (ECT) could actually kill the engine if there is a fault in the wiring or a bad sensor.

5. You indicate I can test the sensor directly to see if it's good before ordering and replacing it. I will review the other thread to see how to test this out.

6. Common sense should have told me to fix the known problem first. I just kept thinking it wasn't related. After bypassing the temp faker board I thought maybe that was why I would get the 224 code. But looking back I know I got that code before I ever bypassed the temp faker board. And I understand from what you said that that bypass has nothing to do with the 224 code. So I am going to chase first to resolve the 224 code before proceeding to anything else.

7. Yes I do have some diagnostic work ahead of me! I probably won't get to it until the weekend again but will post my findings.

I very much appreciate your help.

Mark

The catalytic converter hasn't broken and chocking the car out.?

the cat had been replaced a few years back by previous owner. But i will certainly keep that in mind. thank you.

hi sages- a stuffed cat is a hidden cause of dying idle and shutoff on engines. went through everything on a slant six dodge which did this. told a mechanic my suspicion and was told no thats not it. after many f sharps i disconnected the the two bolt connector and ran it open for a few minutes. cat was the problem. shyster wanted 200 for a new cat. punched a hole in the cats internal honeycombs , reconnected and it ran fine for another 100k. was put on the enemys list of the pc lobby for this crime. anybody here anti pc or am alone. regards oldduke btw went through the same thing on a jeep and a lesabre and it wasnt the cat, but in both cases was the cps. that caused more f sharps.

Thank you Oldduke. I will keep that in mind.

Thank you Oldduke. I will keep that in mind.

Since you are already deep into "diagnosis by parts replacement, I would suggest installing a new CPS.

I acquired working backup AMM and ECUs for my 245, to have if needed and for testing... As in this case you have now to swap in and see if they fix the problem.

Good luck.

kind of what I am thinking too. Thank you.