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Last Saturday night, I took a different way home from spending time with some new friends. Long story short, I had much less weight in the trunk after emptying it out to replace the sender and the carpet. I spun a tire while starting to accelerate from ~45 up to 55 for the highway and started to list a little sideways. Before I could react, I hit a seam that acted like a speedbump. That broke the second tire loose.
I wound up hitting the wall on the far side of the freeway nearly head-on. Airbag deployed, and the subframe/bumper shock mounts folder the bumper bar up into the lights. The lights/reflectors were annihilated, and the streetlight was intermittently out above me. My car was fully blocking one lane on a long blind curve.
I grabbed my one flare and struggled to start it. I waved it at oncoming traffic to keep a second accident from happening.
I walked away unharmed, though sore on my sternum and back for a few days, and coughing airbag propellant the next morning. I'm really glad I had a flare!
Anyway, I had no collision insurance of course, and now I am out a car and pretty broke. The engine was still running and miraculously, none of the radiators seem damaged at all. The fans both spin freely and don't make contact anywhere. I'm trying to sell the engine, turbo/manifold, and downpipe/Cat. Not that this is a for sale ad, but I'm in Portland, OR if anyone wants it.
The real question I have is that I found an 89 (4 sealed headlights! I love it!) and I want it. Somehow it has ABS and an airbag, but it is a 16-valve. I know a little about them, mostly horror stories about broken timing belts, and it has a front cam seal leaking like a sieve all over the timing belt and the water pump seals.
I've been through the FAQ. Everything looks fine except this:
Had a 2-3-2 code, no doubt because of a pretty severe exhaust leak from the manifold to the twin-pipe downpipe. It was running more than a little roughly at first, but clearing the code helped.
The oil leak concerns me. I am broke (read no idea how I'm paying rent next month), but may have a job offer in a couple days. For the cost of a seal set for the water pump and the cams. However... Does this mean I need to do a full timing belt job? I peeked at the belt, and they look almost brand new through the crack. I believe it said Dayco, which is not OEM.
I replaced a cam seal on my 8-valve, and I just used a ziptie and some weight to keep the belt from moving. This time, I don't know if I can do that or if it will get me by for a few months to do that.
What are the secrets of a happy 16-valve? Am I rolling the dice that much if I do the seal now and the belts in a few months? The oil pretty much sticks to the head as it leaks down... is that enough to degrade the belt?
Also, what type (weight) of oil do these picky hydraulic lifters need? I ran 15w-40 Diesel oil in my motorcycle and 740T. I think that would be wrong to use here.
Happy Bricking ... may you never need your airbags.
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I guess I can jump in here, I have had a 89 745 16v for almost 20 years, although it has been off the road for almost 10 years now (rebuilt the head but never got around to the fuel line leak).
I have busted belts on these (had a 744 16v also) 3 times. Every time the belt broke just over 50K miles,(51.5K!), so I certainly recommend doing it Before 50K!
I am pretty sure you have to remove the cam gear and therefore the belt to do the cam seal(s).
Belt tensioning on the 89 is obviously touchy, but I have never had any problem with new belts , although I guess you could argue that was the cause of my just over 50K failures...I am pretty sure there is a write up on this in the 700/900 FAQ.
I have a tension gauge which I have used, but it is hard to calibrate that with the official Volvo tool.
Why I have messed around with these engines for so long is that they are wonderful engines. 40% more HP than standard, and noticeably smoother (balance shafts, and don't forget to put a new belt on them also). They rev nice and the car is deceptively fast, and no waiting for the turbo to get on board to really move.
I have IPD bars, and had some Pirelli summer only tires on it for the first few years, totally fun on twisty roads.....geez I should get back to fixing it up.
If you have more questions, let me know.
--
91 245SE AW70, 89 745, M46, IPD, Dependents-00 S/V 40s, Saab 9-3 SC 6sp XWD
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Glad to hear you are okay!
Regarding the timing belt, have you looked under the hood for a timing belt sticker? Finding one that shows less than a 50k interval and a date within the last 7-8 years since the last belt change should give you a little more confidence in the belt's condition.
If possible, take the cover off and find out if the oil leak has damaged or weakened the belt.
If you buy the car, I advise cleaning or replacing (if you can afford it) the flame trap, breather box and related hoses before replacing the seals. Like a leaky 8 valve engine chances are quite good that a clogged PCV system is the cause of your oil leak!
Are you saying you are afraid the belt will still move after the seals are replaced and the area cleaned of oil?
Oil: Check owners manual. Don't know suggested oil grades. Maybe Andrew does. Personally, I would run something like 10-40 synthetic in your climate. Synthetic is affordable BTW. Can buy a 5 gallon jug of Mobil 1 at Wally World for about $23-24. Or if you prefer conventional, then a high quality one of a similar grade.
I think to a certain extent you are rolling the dice but it might be a risk worth taking. That is your call. Temporarily, you might be better off with an old beater Toyota Corolla or similar. Something to consider...
Just my 2 cents: Besides my 240, I've owned 4 multi-valve, interference engine cars. Still own two. A 95 850 GLT 250k and a 2002 Passat 1.8T 153k. Previously owned a 16V Jetta 283K! and a 93 850 GLT. My take is that as long as you change the timing belt and other required parts such as tensioners on time you will be fine. I've never had an issue with these engines. However, you definitely can't let it slide as on an 8 valve 240, 740 or 940 red block engine.
Good luck with everything!
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Ahh, good to hear.
My post got a little long and rambly. I'm confident I can do all the work, I'm just wondering if the belt has been damaged by oil mist even if it appears dry. And if I can do the seal without having to do 90% of a timing belt job.
I'm planning to pull both manifolds, do all the gaskets and pcv, and the seal. Also planning to transfer the brakes(maybe) and set of hydras along with rear shocks and the seats. I have custom kingsborne plug wires, but I doubt they're compatible.
Whether or not I do a whole timing belt job really depends for me on if I can do the seals without needing to do all the work of a timing belt. In that case, I'll bite the bullet and go for a full job and both belts (and a new grade 10.9 oil pump belt).
Either way, I'll do it in the next few months. But saving hours and $50 in parts on the initial repairs would be useful right now.
Cheers!
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I have had my GLE less than a year..
When I got mine, the timing belt was one of my biggest concerns. I had done the job on eight valve bricks over the years, but the 16v was an unknown for me.
So I know now many do their own, but I am still not ready... mainly because of the specific tension that the belts have to be set to.. and it has to be done right, or the risk of it breaking.. when done wrong is still high from my reading.
Pretty sure the timing belt tensioner on the '89 is manual... ie, not automatic. which started with the '90 model.
Sounds like you are on track to bring yours back to health. Congrats!
PS.. Wish mine was the four lights setup. Love that look!
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)
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Good advice, j.
I just bought some oil today and in my area it is 10W30 recommended. I bought full Synthetic (Valvoline). Bear in mind, though.. my 90 740 is might near perfect, including the engine.
So after the seals are replaced, or determined to be good.. synthetic would be good. Till then stick with dino.
Back to the oil weight, I live in the south, and our winters are not near as cold as the extreme noth of the country... or Canada. In extreme cold 5W30 was recommended.
This is very close to what is in my manual.
https://www.google.com/search?q=volvo+740+oil+chart&prmd=isnv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiB2Oyk6J_QAhUh4oMKHfRUB5kQ_AUIBygB&biw=1024&bih=768#imgrc=3gtDVLUG3nb3LM%3A
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)
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Well, it sounds risky.
Is the body and interior all in good shape? If yes, that is a plus.
The 16v head is an interference type motor, and if the belt breaks... the head is toast. If you had a way to know when the belt was changed, and it was within 50k, you might be ok to leave it till later.
An idea. If someone is giving you this car.. or it is super cheap (like less than $500)..you might get it, and look to sell the head as a start. Then pull as many good parts as you can and sell them. Good cosmetic parts always in demand.
These cars are getting rare, and the 16v head is being used on a b230 block to build a ramped up turbo in quite a few cases.
In the meantime you could look for a b230 eight valve non intererence car.. 200/700/900.
God speed and prayers for your job search.
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)
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The body is in great shape, the interior is in great shape behind the front seats and exclusing the headliner. I've done one of those before, and it's pretty easy to do, but not a priority. I have spare seats and new door pockets to put into it.
I'm planning to do the belt as part of stage 0, I'm just wondering if the oil being in the timing belt compartment will had weakened the belt if oil isn't visible on the belt. Obviously if the belt is soaked, it's got to be changed asap. But if it looks dry (and the back of it looks new, I could even read the label!), is it still compromised and ready to break in the next month?
Cheers and thanks for the good wishes. I'm hoping for a job offer today.
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