Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 9/2007 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Rear Fog Lights 1990 244DL 200


Hello! I had my 1990 244DL inspected in Maryland and one of the reasons it failed was that the rear fog lights are not working (surprised that I need them to pass inspection!). I turn on the headlights without high beams and the fog light switch and neither fog light comes on. All other rear lights work properly on both sides. I replaced the right tail light assembly a few days because a couple of the lenses were cracked - neither fog light was working before or after I replaced the assembly.

The bulbs are new. The fuse is good. The bulb for the fog light switch is not working either. I unplugged the fog light switch and tested the contacts with an electrical meter and it is getting current there. I cleaned the contacts. I tested that there was current at the fuse. I checked for current at the plug that connects to the circuit board and it is not getting current there. There are 2 wires that go into the switch - one is white and one is white with a blue stripe. I am correct to assume that the white wire that connects to the plug at the circuit board in the rear is the correct wire, right?

Any suggestions of what to do next?

Thanks!








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Rear Fog Lights 1990 244DL 200 1990

    That is kinda strange, including the rear fog lamps in the inspection check list. Especially as 1990 is the last year Volvo ran both rear fogs, going to only the driver-side fog in 1991 to avoid confusion on the road.

    The blue/white to the fog light switch is powered only with the light switch on through fuse 14. Then the white wire is indeed the color in use all the way to the lamps. Are you getting your inspection done by a Euro specialist, I wonder?

    Use a test light, or your multimeter in voltage mode, to test for power at each point you can reach. Do this with the fog light switch on and the light switch on. Do it with everything remaining connected; i.e. don't pull the plugs and stick the meter in the end. You'll find where the power fails.


    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    The quickest way to double your money is to fold it in half and put it back in your pocket.









    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Rear Fog Lights 1990 244DL 200 1990

      Thanks, Art! Using my light tester I found there is power going into the switch from the blue/white wire with the lights on but with the fog light switch on there is no power coming out of the switch to the white wire. So it sounds like I need a new fog light switch.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Rear Fog Lights 1990 244DL 200 1990

        Hi,

        Take it apart and fiddle with it.
        It can do one last thing for you before you have to chuck it and that's teach you how it failed.
        You might be surprised at what simple little thing is keeping it from conducting.

        Phil








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

          Rear Fog Lights 1990 244DL 200 1990

          No kidding. Every switch in a '90 Volvo is serviceable. Even the impenetrable cruise and rear wiper switches on the stalks, if you can shoot them with contact cleaner.
          --
          Art Benstein near Baltimore

          If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.








          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

            Rear Fog Lights 1990 244DL 200 1990

            Hey Phil and Art,

            Invaluable advice. I opened up the switch and there is a piece of metal that sits on a spring that toggles back and forth that had residue on it. I cleaned it up and the fog lights work. So does the indicator bulb.

            Cheers,

            Rob

            P.S. I see you're from the Baltimore area. This is number 23 of 25 things I have to check off my list to get the car to pass the MD inspection. The last two are the odometer and the blower not working on 1 and 2 but does on 3 and 4. Rigorous inspection, no?








            •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

              helpful links 200 1990

              Yes, I would say it is rigorous, because the inspection shops get "tested" now and then. Maryland Motor Vehicle Law (TR23-104) establishes minimum standards for equipment, and licenses inspectors. It is criticized because you only need to pass once.

              The odometer probably needs a gear carefully replaced if not already attempted by a previous owner. http://cleanflametrap.com/#links

              I disagree with Onkel to expect your resistor is the culprit, although it appears to make the same "sense" as connecting an unknown loose wire to an unidentified empty pin. The resistor will suffer, though, if the blower is continually attempted in the lower speeds where it doesn't have enough oomph to overcome its binding bearings.

              http://cleanflametrap.com
              --
              Art Benstein near Baltimore

              Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day.








            •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

              Rear Fog Lights 1990 244DL 200 1990

              I do not see that inspections as rigorous so much as overkill. That said, be glad you do not have to pass the Tuf in Germany.

              Odometer is most likely the drive gear. This is covered about a gazillion times here but I have to repeat my oft repeated warning...do NOT hook up the red white wire unless you have a tachometer. You will want to and there is perfectly sensible spade lug right there where it obviously belongs...only it does not.

              Blower motor resistor is likely your other issue and that one is not much fun the change depending on where your current one is mounted.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.