>I took out one spark plug at a time and attached the gauge in its place.

Don't rely on that compression test. Once you solve the no start problem and find the time to redo the compression test you should remove all of the plugs and test one cylinder at a time. Ground the coil wire and hold the throttle wide open when cranking the engine over during the test.

Do your best to get the same number of revolutions on the engine for each cylinder when testing. I usually go with five compressions (revolutions). With all the plugs removed you will be able to hear each compression distinctly so it is pretty easy to count the compressions.

Good luck,
Randy

Does the 88 have a crank position sensor, behind motor going down toward the top of transmission? Wire look sketchy, then replace. Really need to know if you have spark. Also I don't think a stranger can have a legally parked car towed. You live a HOA with all the shitty rules?

Hi,

I need to ask a question and add a thought to your situation.

After your radiator busted did you ever take the distributor cap off and clean the insides out? Both the cap and the lower body.
When the radiator busted you released steam vapors with antifreeze into the air.
The oily composition that was sprayed around everywhere and will seep into any tiny spot there is and stay there longer than just plain water will.

If this stuff got into the distributor or its connectors you will have to use a light solvent (denatured alcohol), to get it out. Especially from under the reluctor components inside. You need to rinse and blow everything out of there.
Otherwise, the moisture will keep coming back evertime the distributor gets hot.

I agree with others that you need to check for spark. First check the coil for full capacity use only the coil wire to the distributor and prop it going to a strut stud bolt. Place it about 3/16 to 1/4 inch away and anchor the wire with a weight so you can see it from the front seat.

As far as that pesky neighbor you can fool him easily.
Just roll the car back and forth and turn the wheels enough to make the car be parked one way and then the other in the stall slightly twisted. Rotate it with pulling it in straight every once and awhile. Leave it a little farther in or out will help too.
If he still wants to bother you or others after that, ask him or her to put you in their will or trust as a sibling or something.
In the interim of getting that done, ask for a stipend too!
:)

Phil

once you get it running by retracing what you actually did and rechecking those steps you might want to think about selling it and getting a 240 with a better engine. if accurate those compression readings are real S--T and indicative of an end of useful life engine.

Odds are best that something electrical that used to pass electrons is no longer effectively passing electrons -- start looking at the parts of the harness you moved around to do the work you did. Oh - next cranking compression test - in addition to warm, did you hold the throttle wide open?