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a new vibration - engine, clutch? 200 1982

Hi All,

Looking for any insight on a new noise/vibration I'm feeling from my '82 245. The vehicle runs the same as before I noticed this noise/vibration. It's hard to troubleshoot since my muffler also recently rusted off, making it hard to hear anything. However, I can say that it is continuous vibration and does not go away or appear when clutch is engaged or in neutral, so I believe that eliminates the M46 and throw-out bearing. It does feel like a vibration more than just a noise. The noise is not a whine and not like metal on metal. It really seems to be more out of balance creating additional resonance somewhere.

I'm wondering what could go out of balance in the engine or clutch area. Is the pressure-plate always rotating at engine RPM like the flywheel? My hope is that the pressure plate might have become unbalanced from a cracked 'finger' or maybe some friction material broke loose on the clutch? It is not any harder to get into gears but I know the clutch is over-due to be replaced.

I'd like to get a new muffler very soon, but if I'll be pulling the clutch out, maybe it is better to wait so I can more easily remove the exhaust piping for access to the transmission, etc?

any thoughts appreciated.
--
'80 242, '82 245 'worktruk', '83 244 Turbo, 83' 242 'volcamino' + a massive dodge van








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a new vibration - engine, clutch? 200 1982

Are you saying that with tranny in gear, clutch pedal down and car sitting still, you feel the vibration when the motor is reved? If so, it most likely is a clutch problem.
on the other hand, if you feel it when driving, try this. Get up to speed where you feel the vibration, coast with tranny in neutral and motor at idle. If you still feel it, it is most likely a drive shaft universal joint going bad.
let us know what you find out. Tom








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a new vibration - engine, clutch? 200 1982

Hi there,

To answer the first question, yes, the clutch assembly is a total package bolted onto the flywheel and spins as a unit anytime the engine turns.
Only the clutch disc and the transmission input shaft stop when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor.
This is suppose to be the only time the throw out bearing is required to spin. Otherwise, it just sits up too and just lightly touching, those spring fingers you mentioned.

If you remove the rubber dust boot from around the clutch lever you might be able to inspect the those fingers with a mirror and a real bright light. An inspection camera cable might be helpful also.

You will have to rotate the assembly by rotating the engine to look at them all.

A spring finger can crack and break off, nothing is impossible. So, if the assembly is really old or abused, like in speed shifting, it possible that is will go out of balance and thus do the vibration all the time. Any young drivers lately?
The severity depends on the length of the finger amount, i.e. the whole thing!

I had a coil spring (the shock asorber part) fall out from the friction disc once but that jammed the pressure plate disengagement. It got between the fingers and the disc. Didn't notice any vibration though?
I had to drive it home by coasting the throttle and then shifting. Got real good at timing the few traffic lights I had to go through and "Hollywooding" some stop signs.

Could you tell us which of the two mufflers is the one that rusted away? The rear ones have been known to crack their end supports and fall down.

If it was the front one you could have developed an issue with catalytic converter or that is, the honeycomb package inside it making some noise vibration. I don't think your car has heat shields.

There is also a header pipe support bracket that may have lost some bolts or it has a cracked plate beneath it that attaches to the twin pipes. This just before entering the front catalytic converter flange.

Also take a good look at the motor mounts and transmission mounts for excessive sag or softness.
You should not be able to rock your engine sideways very easily but it must move some.
The rear engine oil pan must clear the lower cross member by about one inch for both components to sit properly for alignment to the drive shafts rubber support member. All should look centered.

A 1982 has been around for awhile and the above components will and can be neglected but not for any purpose intentionally.

These cars are well built and last a long time that we sometimes forget them in the overall scheme of things to ponder as possibilities.

Good luck thumping and shaking things.
Phil







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