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After more diagnosis, it looks as though I need to replace the crank pulley. It goes out of alignment and that is what is causing one of my belts to rub against the timing cover.
I was shopping around for the crankshaft pulley holder tool, saw one on IPDUSA.com but I also asked around regarding some DIY methods to secure the crank pulley. One of the recommendations was to bump the starter with a breaker bar on the bolt(s), however this only applies to removal and not for securing the new pulley. (also sounds like an excellent way to break something)
The "rope" trick was recommended as well where you remove a spark plug and drop some super-strong non-disintegrating rope into the combustion chamber which will compress against the piston when you rotate the crank and secures it in place for removal and installation. But...I have yet to hear of success stories from those that mentioned it, they're aware of the process but haven't tried it themselves. Has anyone here had success with the rope method?
Thanks.
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yes it works just fine..just use 3/8"?/ nylon & dont let it fall inside,
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Don't bump the starter. In any given universe, there can only be either an immovable object or an unstoppable force ... Starter through ring gear through the crankshaft all the way to the wrench. That's not where I want to find out which exists in my engine's "universe".
Anyway, that's a lot of things to rely on taking abuse beyond what they were designed for.
I once used zip-ties in spark plug holes to hold valves open and take pressure off of buckets to change shims on a 4-cylinder motorcycle. The Rope trick will work fine, but it's a good idea to make double sure that you're at TDC, not TDC+180.
Art is right (as always haha). It's not as easy of a fix as if an oil change goes wrong.
Good Luck
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"One of the recommendations was to bump the starter with a breaker bar on the bolt(s),"
Over the decades, I've heard of doing this many times. I've also heard the anecdote of the hapless soul who removed a harmonic balancer using this technique . . . and the snout of the crankshaft at the same time. Anyway, who wants to deal with the possibility of dodging an air-borne breaker bar?
I am VERY reluctant to oppose anything recommended by Art Benstein because his thoughts are always so well formed, but, I do not like the rope trick - I fear it could damage the engine internals. Perhaps if someone has calculated the breakaway torque of that crank bolt and it is in the same universe as the rated torque of a Volvo 4-banger, I will change my mind.
Until then, I'm sticking with the most predictable method, using a dedicated crank holder (either bought or shopmade).
Rich (near Pittsburgh)
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Fear of the unknown, more or less.
(Saw a nice looking green/blue 90's 245 in the parking lot of the Cranberry Walmart Saturday, along with a lot of terrible towel fans in their team support wear.)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
-Cristopher Columbus, 1491
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Perhaps you're right, Art. Still the rope trick is too much like hydro-lock to me.
I was in the Burgh, Saturday, mostly on the South Side far from Cranberry. And, I do have a green '90 245, but I was running the '93 blue 245 that day.
Also, I've given up on football - you see, I went to Penn State. We used to say, "We ARE Penn State!" Now, it's "We WERE Penn State."
Rich (near Pittsburgh)
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Hmmm. Hydro lock. I suppose that would work also, but very messy. In what way does the similarity cause fear? I've heard oil in the combustion chamber is sometimes used to keep overhead valves from dropping while, say, replacing a spring. I think I'd prefer the rope come cleanup time. Or are you thinking of a running engine inhaling water with resulting damage? That's where the flywheel comes into play.
I'm no authority on football or Penn State. I have an extended family for that. :)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"If I could just say a few words… I'd be a better public speaker." —Homer Simpson
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The only caveat is, you need to understand it before using it. If you do things by blind instruction, you're better off getting the purpose-made crank pulley holder.
Many have used this successfully. An old-timer at the farm engine show agrees with my guess crank bolts have been untorqued and torqued using this method for over 120 years.
Read lucid's post here:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1323101/220/240/260/280/using_impact_wrench_remove_crankshaft_pulley.html
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.
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Thank you for the link, I looked through Lucid's instructions and feel comfortable with moving forward. I'll probably give it a try this weekend, hopefully the pulley arrives Friday after work.
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Just make sure you're at TDC for that particular cylinder and not the top of the exhaust stroke - both valves need to be closed.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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"Just make sure you're at TDC for that particular cylinder and not the top of the exhaust stroke - both valves need to be closed."
That is indeed what needs doing to avoid serious pitfalls.
But, think for a moment, just how much you are assuming in giving those simple directions. Try them on your mom. Or, indeed, anyone who has not taken an engine apart and seen first hand how the valves operate? It just isn't fair to assume anyone with a wrench in their hands knows this stuff.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Flowers leave some of their fragrance in the hand that bestows them. -Ancient Chinese Proverb
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250,000 on my 85 740. Each timing belt change. No issues.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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