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Any ideas on how to repair stripped threads on M47 filler plug hole 200

posted by  Goggiman on  Wed Sep 28 16:04 CST 2016
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last visit: Tue Aug 21 01:03 CST 2012
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Recently bought a reasonable-looking 1990 240 as interim drive to the temporarily retired 93 which needs a good rebuild. Started a proper service on it which revealed a neglected car with all sorts of hiddens horrors that was meant to be run on pennies and driven into the ground then sold off just before the end. There are some daft idiots in this world, you just don't do that to an old brick. Found silicone seal on both M47 filler and drain plugs which should have warned me. Managed to save the threads on the drain plug hole and got the drain plug out and leak tight again with two copper washers but the threads on the filler plug are all stripped. Has anyone attempted a good repair on this? Is the only worthwhile repair a helicoil insert and if yes, what size should I go for ? I need to repair this threaded filler plug hole in situ as I am off on a roundtrip soon and have no time to remove the gearbox. Is the gearbox under internal pressure as I was thinking of plugging the hole with a plastic or alloy plug as a stop gap measure or use a conical plug.
Any idea or suggestion of a good repair would be greatly appreciated, I already like this neglected old bus.
Oh, by the way, this car came with full Volvo main dealer service history ...
Thanks a lot for your help, guys
Goggiman








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    Any ideas on how to repair stripped threads on M47 filler plug hole 200

    posted by  machine man on  Fri Sep 30 20:39 CST 2016
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    last visit: Wed Oct 22 15:40 CST 2014
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    It appears you have given this some great amount of thought.

    I'm not home to go pull a plug and advise you on what next "up size" of thread to use that you can find a similar type plug to use.

    The statement about a conical plug made me blink. (:). I thought you meant a cork or rubber plug (:).

    I'm hoping you meant a tapered "dry seal" pipe plug thread like a 1/4" or 3/8" NPT.
    Dry Seal is the design but a Teflon lubricant or various paste types are used to make them more sweat proof when it comes to diester fluid additives.

    If you go that route try one with for hexagon or "Allen" style as they are usually made a harder steel.

    When you use the tap put lots of grease on it to catch the chips.
    Turn the tap into the hole only eleven full threads threads from the top side of the length of threads down.
    This of course, is on a new unbroken tap or ground off the bottom tap.
    This should give you a proper depth of taper.

    As far as pressure there is none that I know of involved in a manual transmission.

    Good luck

    Phil







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