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HI,
If I'm reading this right, this starting problem is more prominent when the engine is dead cold and I gather, it has sit overnight or for a long period?
You said, the car is extremely hard to start and you have to do a lot of pumping of the pedal to keep it running at the upper RPM's. Like a "whole lot" above any idle point.
Well, first of all pumping the pedal is not helping anything. It will only confuse the computer programming because of throttle switch jumping open and closed. It's the communication idle or run or what you want the engine to do.
The pedal does not pump gas or air it is just an air vane.
What I surmise that is happening is it lacks fuel pressure or a filled up fuel rail. An empty or low on volume fuel rail takes time to fill.
It most likely has drained over night.
Either back to the tank or into the engine.
Have you tried, turning the key to start and back off "several" times, but NOT actually crank the engine over. You should hear the main pump only "hum" and quit.
This will run the pump(s) for a second or so, as to pre-fill the fuel rail and its components on the line.
If it starts and goes better after trying this technique, then you are on to something!
Also! Listen, for the pumps to be running, for a second after you stop cranking the engine.
You want to know, if the pumps are actually "kicked on" and were running while you were cranking.
Just in case there is a bad or a delay in the fueling system relay area.
It is the easiest way for gasoline to go back to the tank, is by the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator, that is mounted on the fuel rail.
It can leak back through a check valve in it. FPR's do fail more often than the pressure side of pump related parts.
You do not say anywhere if it ever smells like the engine is rich or flooded.
So, I will again surmise, that gas went to the tank, directly or back through the fuel pumps, if there is a bad check valve on the outlet of the main pump. This is rare, but?
It can also leak out of an injector, usually meaning one, since there are four, but even this is rare thing I have found to be an occurrence.
If so,
The oil in the engine will eventually smell of gas dilution going on.
Smell your dip stick oil from a paper towel or sniff over the valve cover cap.
Keep the engine off on that one, unless, you have chapped lips! (:|)
Another thing around to put "the sniff on" is the vacuum hose to the FRP.
If the rubber diaphragm inside is leaking out some raw gas, it will get sucked into the intake manifold and cause a temporary rich condition. The engine will buck to try to burn that off.
Similar to a that stuck cold start injector idea you mentioned, that you don't have.
Of course this would lead to a serious leak there and the car would run rich all day long.
Very bad gas mileage might be and was not noted. So, I bet not.
I need to ask does this happen more often or not if the tank is less than half full or full.
There is a feed pump in the fuel tank that can starve the main pump, of which, can make it harder to start but more likely all the time.
It's a far fetch for the morning or cold moment of sickness.
I would not even go down the AMM route since the car runs great otherwise.
The coolant temperature sensor can alway be suspect but it takes quite some time for an engine to warmup. It would run lean and display poor power until its warmed up.
That is, After warming up, to about halfway between cold and normal on the gauge so it can run on that mixture.
You say, it appears to go away rather quickly.
I think....
It's Hard to start, coughs and sputters for about 10 to 15 seconds for the whole ordeal.
I hope this give you some points to zero in on.
You wrote a very good description of what your car was doing, so I tried to do you one even.
Good luck and hope to hear you found something.
Phil
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