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BW35 Troubleshooting 140-160 1970

Everyone,

Working on a 145 w/ a BW35 transmission and I am having some trouble. Primary issue is under light acceleration from a stop...I am getting a lot of hesitation/stumbling at low speeds/RPM and then it feels like something "catches" and the car takes off. The transmission is the most recent change (car was previously a manual), which is why I am suspecting it. Fluid level appears correct (although the dipstick is very difficult to get a clear reading on). Shifts are nice and smooth and once at speed/revved up everything is smooth. Anyone else previously had this issue? Any other items I can check? Transmission was previously rebuilt only a few thousand miles ago (from an 1800) and looked great before installation. I am running Castrol Type F fluid.

As far as stage 0 items, I have triple checked the mixture/timing and the carbs have recently been rebuilt and ran great for several thousand miles. Also everything runs as expected when there is no load on the engine (i.e. in park or neutral) and I see the timing advance as expected when watching with a timing light. Plugs are fresh with correct gap.

Thanks,
Brian








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    BW35 Troubleshooting 140-160 1970

    Ok following up on this thread, I FINALLY found the issue and it wasn't with the BW-35 (although getting the kickdown cable set correctly did help overall). The car is running a pair of HIF6 carbs with a stock Volvo airbox. The holes in the airbox line up with several holes on the carbs and someone in the past actually ending up tapping a hole that matches the airbox holes but is in fact a air input for the "accel pump" mechanism on the side (The device on the side with the "dripper" output). That means my HIF6 carb had 5 tapped holes instead of the correct 4 tapped holes. When I reinstalled the airbox I chased all the threads on the carb with a tap and this sent aluminum shavings into the body of the carb, including the float area and "accel pump" mechanism on the side. Why the carbs ran fine for several thousand miles with these shavings in there is anyone's guess, but definitely cleaning out these shavings from the carb float area solved the issue I was seeing. I guess that goes to show that sometimes the problems ISN'T the last thing you changed! (BW-35 in my case)

    Brian








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    BW35 Troubleshooting 140-160 1970

    I would totally suspect something with the engine... Keep in mind, with the manual, you rev the engine to 1200rpm or so and gradually let the clutch out, keeping the motor in its power band. With the automatic, you are asking the engine to start working straight from an 800rpm idle.

    Maybe turn the idle up just a hair, see if starting from slightly higher helps (temporary measure, it'd be hell on your mileage)

    We won't ask the reasoning for the swap :)

    --
    -Matt I ♥ my ♂








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    BW35 Troubleshooting 140-160 1970

    Hi Brian,

    I'd only be guessing ...

    If you do not have a BW35 service manual standalone or as part of your in-hand maintenance service docs, please try:

    http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/100-series/

    Section for for both 1969 and 1974 treat the transmission here.

    Also, here at:

    http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/-%20Service%20Manuals/Automatic%20Transmission

    Specifically, see:
    TP30868-2 Volvo BW55 AW71.pdf

    File URL: http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/-%20Service%20Manuals/Automatic%20Transmission/TP30868-2%20Volvo%20BW55%20AW71.pdf

    The other auto transmission service file may be useful, also. I remember seeing Borg-Warner doc on the BW35, yet can't recall where now. Not in bookmarks, either.

    And, ha! Found it, for the Borg Warner BW 35. Copy the hyperlink into an new browser window. Mozilla and Chrome and MS browsers may open the file.

    Image of title page:



    Link to the PDF file:

    http://volvo1800pictures.com/document/BW35_manual/bw35.pdf

    AND, on the same page:



    Link to the PDF file:

    http://volvo1800pictures.com/document/mish/Volvo%20Automatic%20transmission%20Diagnostic%20chart.pdf


    I found this web site some time ago:

    http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

    The page is incomplete. You'll find links to the PDF file, yet they are not linked when you look at the page. You have to open the HTML and use search. I mean to write the page owner, yet forget to.


    I would guess fluid level, and maybe clogged screen(s), yet if a recently rebuilt BW35, with new (or undamaged re-used) wet clutch discs, there is the service of adjusting the bands (should have been done during the rebuild). Through sounds of something hydraulics .... (I guess) I hope some sort of warranty remains in force on the BW35 rebuild. The BW35 is a durable auto transmission, with care.

    If you rev the engine and it does not go, suspect your recently rebuilt BW35.

    You have a warranty on the rebuild, I hope?

    There would be a host of folks that would want the M40 or M41 transmission, driveshaft, three pedal assembly, clutch cable and sheath, transmission support, and on and on, you removed.

    Other board members will provide an actually useful reply to your questions here soon. I though directing you to some service doc may help you with your trouble shooting process.

    Hope that helps you,

    MacDuff.
    --
    Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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      BW35 Troubleshooting 140-160 1970

      Ok everyone, sorry for going dark but got distracted by work and other things. Got a chance to go through the troubleshooting guide and did some other tests. My findings:

      1. First, I determined I had a much worse pan leak than I realized. Looks like it was overtightened in the past and each bolt hole was raised way above the mating surface. I found a spare pan and fixed the leak, refilling to verity that I had full fluid. Same issue persisted.

      2. Next, did more engine checks, including a compression check (120 across all cylinders). Everything looked fine with engine performance.

      3. Finally, went through the road tests in the auto-tranny troubleshooting guide and the car failed the torque converter stall test by more than 600 RPM.

      This seems to indicate that the torque converter is bad, according to the troubleshoot guide. IS this a common failure on these transmission? Is there any variation on the torque converters I should know about? Any tricks for installing the converter that perhaps I didn't follow?

      Thanks!
      Brian








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        BW35 Troubleshooting 140-160 1970

        From my experience I wouldn't say torque converter failure is all that common with the BW35 - but it can certainly happen. I don't recall when Volvo went with the water cooled version (oil lines to the radiator) - yours is probably that type. Earlier versions were "air cooled" -- the torque converter has cooling "fins" welded to the exterior with that type. -- Dave







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