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240 charging problem 200

battery will not charge because the light on the dash will not come on.
diagnosed this far

the red exciter wire from the alternator to the gray connector on the firewall... engine side lacks continuity

continuity however exists between the cluster side of the gray connector and pin 11 at the back to the cluster

its a 1991 non abs

if I run a fresh wire from the alt to the gray connector as soon as I re attach the neg battery terminal crackles and the exicter wire loses continuity.

i am thinking a short in the loom under the alternator?








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    240 charging problem 200

    Hi there,

    This sounds very interesting!
    A fresh wire exciter wire that loses continuity.
    Since this car is still full of "stale ones", that work, you should try borrowing one of those! 😈
    Sorry, the devil in me, made me say it!

    A fresh wire to me means "new" but I also envisioned it ran over the top of the engine to the D+ terminal from the gray connector.
    My video cam feed gets really fuzzy seeing how that wire does not stay solid or complete.

    When you hook back up the negative cable the crackle should be from small things charging back up.
    That should have nothing to do with the alternator's circuits until the ignition switch is in position two.

    I have to ask, are you leaving the ignition switch in the ON position of two all the time?
    It powers up lots of other things besides the cluster if it that way.

    Tracing continuity, current or voltage sources are of course three different methods.
    Maybe you have blown a fuse in your meter? Hard to see that electricity without metered eyes!

    The alternator light should light if you ground the pin 11 to the gray connector to ground anywhere in the car with the instrument cluster turned on the bulb should light.
    Maybe pin 11 is the wrong color animal you are trailing?

    If you have no light, then, the switch is off, the bulb is out or possibly a diode on the cluster's back side is open and is not directing source power correctly.
    I think I have seen about four tied of them grouped together within the cluster schematic.
    A rare deal to happen I bet, but Hey, **** happens!

    You need to get after the fuse 12v, the ignition switch 12v and the output of the alternator circuit to D+ with your meter. There will be a voltage drop showing up that is going to the alternator due to the resistance of the light bulb.

    It won't be all that much for maybe a 2 watt bulb, I would think?
    You could jumper that whole circuit with an even "Fresher" wire and any "taillight bulb" straight from the battery to the D+ to make the alternator "roll on" without going full output.

    The term "Roll on" was used in the movie "Green Mile" to power up an electric chair in the 30's.
    I think they used wire wound rheostats to get "rolling."
    Back then, the thinking was to cook something! Not to just disrupt a heart beat with a few properly place milliamperes and voltage to pierce the skin.

    Jeez, make me all tingly just thinking about it!

    Phil









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