Its also causing them to run slow so its bogging down the whole system. Is there a lube point that is in need? Looks like the best way to get at it is to remove the cluster if needed to get at the post.
Thank you

http://cleanflametrap.com/wiper.html

For removing the cluster...

http://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

There are 10 different kinds of people.
Those who understand binary, and those who don't.

Wow, that's a terrific tutorial Art. I hadn't seen it before, not having had occasion to need it, but I'm guessing that as these cars age, we'll all be confronted with the issue sooner or later. Looks like Joe's number came up.

I have had the cable derail itself a couple of times, once memorably in a blizzard somewhere in the White Mountains with my wife and kids in the car. That was bad enough, I know what you mean about slashed wrists, but this looks like a whole week end of fun.

I think I would heed your suggestion to remove the dash, and maybe go after the heater blower for inspection at the same time if it's of unknown vintage. And maybe vice versa.

I've often wondered why every 240 I encounter has wipers that run at different speeds. I assumed it was the motors, but I think now it may be more about the spindles. On a recent wagon tailgate rebuild I re-lubed a sluggish wiper, but it never occurred to me that there are two more at he front.

Thanks for the informative post and good luck to Joe. Please let us know how it goes.

Regards, Peter

Does not look encouraging for an easy fix/lube. Not excited at all at the prospect of tearing the dash apart either. Looks like removing the cluster will only get me a look at the spindle with no chance of lubing it.
Nothing lasts forever as the saying goes.

I did have to make a similar repair a while back--on my '84 245 Ti. It is very doable with the cluster removed. If I had to do it over however -- I would first try to "cheat" by not removing the spindle assembly completely. The upper "drum" has to come off anyway so I'd start there. Under the drum and rubber grommet you'll find a "cap" -- like an upside down thimble with a hole in the end for the spindle. Where the spindle pokes through the "cap" has a built in seal surrounding the spindle. I couldn't tell if the seal part was separate from the "cap" - it isn't. The "cap" fits very tight but can be pried off (carefully) -- it may crack as mine did (replaced with one from my plastic cap collection - drilled the necessary hole).
With the cap removed it is possible to get your favorite rust bust liquid down there. Tap the spindle down a little to create a "well" (yes, I like quotation marks--and parenthesis) -- :-) while leaving the lower cable drum attached. When you can work the spindle up and down easily you should be able to introduce actual lubricant.
To reinstall the upper drum requires a block of wood under the cable drum - or an assistant. The satisfaction of having properly working wipers makes the job worthwhile. Mine was so seized I couldn't turn it by hand--I don't know how the motor coped with it (I replaced the overworked motor anyway). -- Dave

Thanks Dave. I think I will have to do both sides while I am at it. One side is shot the other is not far behind.

It appears Dave reached the same conclusion I did in my page -- the "cap" or what Volvo calls a "casing" is there to keep water from entering where grease belongs.

Check out Jim J. Morris's Zen of Volvo 240 Wiper Linkage to which I have a link at the end. Jim describes a minimally invasive approach to the wiper drives. Obviously my photos would not have been so easy through the glove box and through the instrument cluster openings.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Long ago, when men cursed and beat the ground with sticks, it was called witchcraft. Today it's called golf.

Hiya Joe Kid and Uncle Art!

Here's the link to Jim J. Morris's Zen of Volvo 240 Wiper Linkage

http://www.jimjmorris.com/cvcoa/wipers.htm

Id been under the dash on all of my 240s. The bolts that secure the the wiper motor and both wiper linkages seem to come loose on mine and leak. So I would stuff some plumbers putty, align, and torque the bolts.

Also, the nuts that secure the wiper to the spindles always seem really under torqued.

What I'd not done is to disassemble the spindle and slather with grease on these three newest 240s. Well, maybe the 1992 green 240 after the windshield pan rust.

Yet, when the wipers do judder across a wet windshield, a quick solution to get lube into the spindle, at least works for me, is:

The 1991 kittys grey Volvo 240


The green 240 with the horrible mask from my windshield pan rust repair.


A circlip there. The 90-92 assembly appears different from the linkage Zen page diagram? Oh, I see, 1986 or so and later.

Do not let the NAPA auto paint guy tell you to cover the urethane color paint with enamel clear coat.

The groan in your video is funny. Though it a soundtrack.
http://cleanflametrap.com/wiper.html

Mobile 1 15W50 in the Tri-flow bottle. Though almost all six caps or cover require replacement.

It is a WIPER ARM BEZEL - Volvo (1304975) at least in the Zen of 240 wiper linkage page image.

And is discontinued.

Though here it is called a cover and appears available.

http://www.volvopartsinternational.com/Volvo-OEM-Part-Number-1304975-COVER-p/1304975.htm

Maybe some durable material can act to cover the spindle?

Hope that helps.

Duffed.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.

Have tried the drip lube to no avail at this point.Time will tell. I have not had time to dig into this repair yet.

Hi,

Did you remove the wiper arm?
There is a weather cap or rubber like seal that has hardened, that might have to removed. Mine has totally crumbled. It's is not recoverable!

I put the nut back on loosely and use it to pull and push on. With the nut on you can bump the nut
lightly from different directions and not hurt the threads.

I would advise using only a rust penetrate as its is very thin.

If you can get a hold of some "Maltby" penetrate spray it should easily loosen anything stuck like this.
It comes in paint can type of sprayer. Colored are black and white with red letters.
No crappie NASCAR marketing to raise the price.

It sold exclusively by them and is patented!
Unfortunately it's Sold Only by the case but includes shipping. So it's is rare to find it in most auto parts stores.
Definitely not in todays Nordstrom's like auto parts stores!
Appears to me, they are about ready to introduce fancy garage clothing on some manikins complete with mechcanics gloves and safety glasses!

Only knowledgeable mechcanics of industrial maintenance shops used it some 40 years ago. That's how it got recommended to me back then. I have found it to work more times than not!
If not, only a nice hot torch worked!
I have tried bunches of other brands when I have run out.
If and when I run across another can I scoop them up! I use the other "get me bye's" for very easy things, like rust removal on the outside of parts, so I don't waste my Maltby.

Check out these sites for a little history and some very low key marketing owners now!

http://www.geocities.ws/maltbycompany/Maltby.html

Every time I have found it, it was up in Oregon.
This site shows a separate product just for California!
Now, That figures! California is special.... Go figure as it was always made in Southern California the last I knew?
Don't know about their other products and who copied who over the years but the penetrate is patented.

http://www.maltbycompany.com/index2.html

http://maltbystore.com

Hope this saves you from digging out the dash.
It worked for me!
Phil

That cap is shot. I will try using the nut to get some wiggle play with the wiper arm off as I dont want to have to dig in to this right now.