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Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

posted by  hairy apple on  Sun Jun 26 09:55 CST 2016
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last visit: Sat Aug 9 14:47 CST 2014
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So my friend Glink (66 estate) has a question about rear brake drum removal.

The square lug on the back of the adjusters has broken off due to rust.
He has ordered 2 new adjusters an a proper drum puller. He's worried that the drums won't come off now that the shoes are up tight against them. I suggested a few things he might try but he'd like a 2nd or 3rd opinion, so maybe you all could chime in with any ideas that you all might have. This can't be the first time this has happened.








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    The 'pop' will probably shake loose everything inside. 120-130

    posted by  uniberp on  Mon Jun 27 07:27 CST 2016
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    last visit: Mon Jan 31 07:08 CST 2011
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    Then just keep pulling. ;)

    I have an approved puller to borrow for shipping and return shipping.
    --
    MPergiel, Walker, MI








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    Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

    posted by  james_a_sousa on  Sun Jun 26 21:04 CST 2016
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 18:51 CST 2014
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    Look on the web to find out what the inside of the brakes look like. or take another wheel apart.

    When he gets the new adjusters, look them over.

    First, I would open the bleeder to release any pressure in the system. and back the emergency brake cable off a lot.

    Perhaps you could drill the center of the adjuster out a bit smaller than the hole in the backing plate, jam a chisel or a screwdriver into the hole, twist the adjuster and poke it away from the shoes.

    After that, you might try to grind the nuts off and push the adjuster in and toward the center of the wheel to release it from the shoes.

    As a last resort, I suspect that a good puller would pull the drums off at the peril of some of the brake parts.







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      Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

      posted by  hairy apple on  Thu Jul 7 13:22 CST 2016
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      last visit: Sat Aug 9 14:47 CST 2014
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      I was thinking along the same line except after drilling the hole, if possible, using an EZY OUT to turn the adjuster back a notch or 2.








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        Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

        posted by  derek uk on  Fri Jul 8 05:11 CST 2016
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:33 CST 2014
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        If the steel adjuster sliders are seized in the alloy block, unscrewing the coned adjuster won't help.








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          Drum Brake Adjuster failure modes and servicing 120-130

          posted by  Ron Kwas on  Fri Jul 8 14:43 CST 2016
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          last visit: Fri Oct 24 04:03 CST 2014
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          Forum;

          Derek has it absolutely right!...and the steel adjuster pins frozen in the alu Adjuster housing is the typical failure mode...so even if, by some small miracle, the threads (steel) of the adjustment cone (also in the alu housing) were loose you were able to turn it to back it out, that doesn't mean the pins are going to be free to move back and allow Brake Shoes to retract.

          IMO, forget about the messing around with Adjusters when removing Drums! After Drum is removed, Ajusters should be checked, disassembled, cleaned of aluminum oxides, treated with graphite filled grease, as part of a proper brake service!

          Even BRAND NEW adjusters should be disassembled and rebuilt with Graphite filled grease to prevent galvanic seizing!

          Cheers








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    Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

    posted by  planetman on  Sun Jun 26 11:45 CST 2016
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:29 CST 2014
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    Can I assume that the adjuster(s) broke while he was adjusting the brakes and that the adjuster(s) broke when he tried to de-adjust the brakes after tightening the adjuster and now the drum(s) don't turn freely or at all?

    You can try de-adjusting the parking brake cables, but that will only work if the cables were over adjusted to start.
    --
    Eric
    Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
    Torrance, CA 90502
    hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com








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    Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

    posted by  Ron Kwas on  Sun Jun 26 11:14 CST 2016
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 04:03 CST 2014
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    ha;

    In the first place, I don't agree with premise: "shoes are up tight against them (drums)"...if that was the case, how would the car be able to roll when Brakes were not applied?? Adjusters take up free travel due to wear of shoe friction material only to keep friction material NEAR Drum friction surface...they do not cause shoes to be in contact, nor do they affect when Drum needs to be pulled in any major way...yes, if there is a significant wear-lip, backing off Adjusters will help a bit...but in the second place, Adjuster setting comes NOWHERE NEAR the force advantage of the puller to break the Taper shaft to Drum hub connection.

    To remove Drums, use only one of the approved Pullers in the approved manner. See: http://www.sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.htm

    Cheers








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      Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

      uid 4433's pic
      posted by  patrick of montreal on  Sat Jul 2 05:20 CST 2016
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      last visit: Sat Oct 18 08:25 CST 2014
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      Disagree with the premise that the adjusters won't bind the drums. In fact the adjuster will bind and lock the drum, that is the first step to adjusting the brake shoe.
      To the matter at hand, if the adjusters are broken and u have replacement you can drill them out and remove but it is awkward. Try pulling the drums gifts with a correct puller and aee if the shoes are really binding. The strength of the brakes is from generated heat, their lateral friction with the springs and lateral movement is much less, and it may be possible to overcome it without damages. To wit release the holding pins with some small needle nose pliers and a quarter turn.








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      Rear brake drum removal with a caveat (a caveat is not a tool) 120-130

      uid 4433's pic
      posted by  patrick of montreal on  Fri Jul 1 09:39 CST 2016
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      last visit: Sat Oct 18 08:25 CST 2014
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      Disagree with the premise that the adjusters won't bind the drums. In fact the adjuster will bind and lock the drum, that is the first step to adjusting the brake shoe.
      To the matter at hand, if the adjusters are broken and u have replacement you can drill them out and remove but it is awkward. Try pulling the drums gifts with a correct puller and aee if the shoes are really binding. The strength of the brakes is from generated heat, their lateral friction with the springs and lateral movement is much less, and it may be possible to overcome it without damages. To wit release the holding pins with some small needle nose pliers and a quarter turn.







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